Surfing Waves

I've been told that longboarders should position themselves further back than the shortboarders. Just how far back should this be? Is it at the spot where the waves are slowly turning into an A shape? Or do you guys use a rough estimate like number of strokes from where the shortboarders are sitting? Many thanks!

It really depends on how big your longboard is and how much glide you have. If you are sitting to far outside you will not catch the waves, so you will know to move in. You can also see where the other surfers are lining up and start there.

Tony g is right. This is something you learn by experience. And the bigger the board / the more powerful the surfer, the mushier the wave you can catch.

My basic kook rule:

1. Look for longboarders in the lineup who are clearly much stronger paddlers. That spot is a little too far outside for me.
2. If they are also on 10' + boards, then that spot is probably way too far outside for me.

There correct place to be varies from wave to wave, so there is no one correct spot to be.

Generally people new to the line up sit too far outside, bare that in mind and move further inside as soon as you have the confidence to do so.

It is true that longboards are not so easy to make steep drops on but don't let that put you off since the further in you are, the more waves you will catch and the faster you will progress. I sit with my shortboard friends most of the time and get on fine (minus the occasional nose-dive ).


Aim to be mobile, spot the waves coming and paddle out, in or to the side to put yourself in the correct position to get them. If you sit and wait in the same spot (especially on the outside) then you wont catch many waves at all.


Just get out and experiment, watch the other surfers!


edit> I am talking about beach breaks, which I assume you are surfing? Points are a lot easier to read and position on.

Rickyroughneck wrote:
It is true that longboards are not so easy to make steep drops on

not necessarily

Roy_Stewart wrote:

Rickyroughneck wrote:
It is true that longboards are not so easy to make steep drops on

not necessarily

Okay

Rickyroughneck wrote:

Roy_Stewart wrote:

Rickyroughneck wrote:
It is true that longboards are not so easy to make steep drops on

not necessarily

Okay

This wil rev the Roy but if you want see the validity of any of Roy's statements , there is only one thing to do view his short videos on his very own website and then the appropriate course of action is to form your own opinion.
Long boards can take steep drops but it is based on the skill of the rider in matching the waves, learners always find steeper = more difficult no matter what the length and length complicates more.
+ If you have an offshore wind of any strength then the larger nose of a long board faces more wind resistance.

No nose or narrow nose and increased nose rocker was developed to allow easier entry onto steeper waves .
So a flat long board is a little more difficult.
With the increased paddling ability of a longboard you can quite often be at standing take off speed and take the drop earlier and easier and be standing and ready for the steep section