Surfing Waves

Someone has posted a question on the turtle / eskimo roll article at https://surfing-waves.com/turtle_roll.htm
Would someone who knows please answer. I would, but have no experience (which is why I solicited help to write the article)
Ta

surf patrol wrote:Someone has posted a question on the turtle / eskimo roll article at https://surfing-waves.com/turtle_roll.htm
Would someone who knows please answer. I would, but have no experience (which is why I solicited help to write the article)
Ta

Uncle jaffa is on the job the eskimo/turtle roll.

On all counts if you can choose a way to get out the back without duckdiving or rolling , use a rip a channel or a rock jump, but it is not always possible.
You are paddling out on your longboard and are confronted by of white water coming towards you.
Duck diving is not an option, if it is small or weak or not quite down the face of the wave you can try method push up
Paddle hard at the white water making sure you are facing straight at it. KNOW WHERE THE OTHER SURFERS ARE AROUND YOU they could wear your mistake if you don't factor this in.
The second before you meet the white water you do a full push up toes on board hands gripping the rails firmly, push the nose down slightly ( if you push the nose down too much you will end up popping the board out behind you like a champagne cork) get it right and the white water will pass between you and the board, and you are past the wave.
If not you might as well attempt your first fin first takeoff or just accept being washed back
OK now for the meat in the turtle roll.

Bigger surf bigger and better skills needed, KNOW WHERE THE OTHER SURFERS ARE AROUND YOU, BIG white water paddle hard straight at it, at the last moment with speed turn upside down gripping the rails at a sweet spot towards the front of the board, some where about 3/4 of the way forward. Let your body hang straight down like a sea anchor pull the nose down a little if done correctly you will be pushed a little deeper by the white water's force, and the white water will pass you by, a good roll and you will emerge behind the wave.
Do not grab to far forward or push the nose really deep or once again you will project your board back wards like a missile.

Contrary to what is said on site do not grip the board near the back this sticks the nose up towards the oncoming white water with the usual result of being flipped and be flung towards the beach or being forcefully separated from your board.

Next category paddling up a bigger wave that starts to break at the top, an old way that worked with surf skis and they even had a handle at their back for this. To do this get off the board and give it an almighty push to get over the wave, this doesn't work as well with leg ropes.
First off; every action has an equal and opposite reaction, you push the board over the wave but this succeeds in pushing you back over the falls, over you go, leg rope stretches twang board comes back over the falls after you possibly a smack in the head.
But if timed right this actually works.
More successful methods both involve [b]speed and [/b]timing[/b] paddle straight hard at the approaching face,
method 1 try a short penetrating duck dive hopefully you will have enough momentum to penetrate and pop through.
method 2 again with speed turtle roll and hang hard again the momentum of your paddle will help as the wave is heading shore ward and you will pop out.

Other things you can do is if surf traffic permits head towards the shoulder ( ie; if there is somebody riding do not paddle towards the shoulder you cannot out paddle someone who is surfing, man up and take the white water on the head, failing to give way like this is a major cause of fights and abuse in the water) if you are going to partially hit by the white water or can't straighten out come as close to straight on and let the wave hit your tail and blow it's energy swinging you around.
A good rule of thumb for a surf spot is if you can't control your board in getting out and getting through the waves, you are not ready for that spot


Hope this helps

Thank you for elucidating this in detail jaffa, well done. I live in Malibu and have been surfing since the 80's. The only addendum I would add is that in bigger surf when you want to punch through using the turtle roll, I have found that holding the rails alone *may* not always work, though I do it for most waves. I have surfed waves 7-10 on my longboard and when I am facing a mountain of white water coming towards me, I do the turtle roll exactly as you illuminated with the only exception is rather than hold the rails, I will hug the board and turn my face to the side to avoid getting my nose broke.

Here is an example:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QZyhNP- ... ideo_title

Note, this technique, in my humble opinion is the correct one in surf 6 feet or bigger. The idea is twofold:
1. Punch through the surf as quickly as possibly and with the least interruption
2. Hang on to your board.

#2 is so you don't hurt others and also you don't want to be without your board. Now I am not encouraging putting your legs around the board. That is a sure way to end up doing cartwheels back at the beach and half drown you. I am saying that holding the rails alone may not be enough to maintain your board. I would also advise waxing the rails where you turtle roll to make the grip stronger. But even holding the rails may not be enough in bigger surf.

I would be interested in hearing your opinions and experience of the turtle roll in big surf.

Great addition JohnG, forgot about turning the face away, I've had my nose broken five times whilst surfing but not in a turtle roll., usually by over committing in a top turn and driving my nose into my face add that to 3 times playing rugby, I had to have plastic surgery and it looks good again, and I ain't no Michael Jackson.

Back on topic, every method of getting out has a fail limit where you cannot roll and hold hard enough,( although I've left finger dents on the rails) or you cannot duck dive deep enough, and then you legrope breaks all part of what you need to be able to deal with

I have rolled under countless times in big surf ( 3 to 4 times overhead) and disagree with much of what has been said here.

Most longboards these days are too light to roll under correctly

JohnG wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8QZyhNP- ... ideo_title

.

This is completely wrong, a dangerous and useless method.

Yep Roy, not rapped in the arms and legs wrap,definite invitation to end up as flotsam usually without a harmonic sweet spot rather subscribing to chaos theory, and if you will pardon the pun part of a manglebrot set on the shore.( funny we called them eskimo rolls)