Surfing Waves

Hi i have been surfing for a year (well falling of alot), i currently surf a 7,6 minimal/ fun board, it was given to me so know choice it prob a bit small and rocks like crazy. I have been given a long board which i think is the type of surfing i want to do.
its a Town and Country 9ft Long board it prob 10 years plus old it has a load of dings which i have fixed with resin so its water tight. i took it out once but the waves were huge 6ft+ which i now know was a silly idea and ended up with it smacking me i the chest. it felt really hevy to paddle and got paulled away by every wave. my mate who i surfed with said it felt hevy to lift and might have water retention. to me it does feel hevy but it is a big board and is old so is glassy and fat.

can any one advise me of how i know weather its worth keep trying it or weather i should bin it off. i had bought the board of a mate (non surfer) but got a refund and kept the board

if it is a reck then im going to buy a proper long board or magic carpet so would welcome advice on that to im 6'2 and 16.6 stone, i have no desire at all to do tricks all i want is to ride in on waves and have fun any advice wwelcomed.

weather it helps or not i surf bantham/ Bigbury on south coast and newquay when i can

thanks ali

I wouldn't write it off just yet. It might be waterlogged, but try it out again in smaller waves and see how you go.

Try renting a board at a local surf spot. A cheaper alternative before buying something else.

hard to tell without pic.
as a rule of thumb, old boards like yours always handle like a tanker.
check on-line see if you can find origional manafacturer info, that will include board weight. then weigh the thing.
if nothing ealse, stand the board on tail for several days. then drill 1/8 in hole in tail edge at base. see if anything runs out.
dont forget to reseal hole.

spot wrote:stand the board on tail for several days. then drill 1/8 in hole in tail edge at base. see if anything runs out.
dont forget to reseal hole.

Interesting method. Never heard of such one.

You got money for a new board? If yes, time for a new board, if not then it's an awesome board that drives the girls crazy and makes dudes wish they where you

Mals are the most poorly designed surfboard type of all time.

Roy_Stewart wrote:Mals are the most poorly designed surfboard type of all time.

That's your opinion, Roy does nothing to help a guy who is learning to surf has repair problem and probably cannot afford the £400,000 + for one of your wooden boards.
Lots of people are uninformed of your OPINION and your manner of surfing, your style, your choice, no more no less.
It is only your,opinion no more no less.
If the uninformed have fun doing what they do they too are doing what they want to do!
I for one are well informed, happy in what I'm doing, I have no need to insult your craft or your person.
That too is only my opinion and is worth just that, recognition as an opinion no more no less

I surf bantham a lot, and I've been pulled away from the board on a number of occasions from the wave reflections off the beach and island. You sure thats not what happened? The reason I ask is that Ive noticed I drift into these areas pretty quick if I'm not keeping an eye on my position and its pretty frustrating. My first board was heavy and ended up with a rant on this forum , could simply be the way the board is made?

Greg

spot wrote:stand the board on tail for several days. then drill 1/8 in hole in tail edge at base. see if anything runs out.
dont forget to reseal hole.

I second this. If moisture is present, then press the corner of a piece of tissue paper in it to wick away the moisture and leave it on the tail somewhere dry. Definitely worth doing this, also the longer you can bare to leave it the better, a week preferably.

Roy_Stewart wrote:Mals are the most poorly designed surfboard type of all time.

A ridiculous statement, there are some truly atrocious surfboard designs out there that make mals look like proverbial cream cheese. Simply because they don't subscribe to your narrow criteria (and from your most recent vids, neither do your surfboards) doesn't make them bad for the general surfing population.

Rickyroughneck wrote:A ridiculous statement, there are some truly atrocious surfboard designs out there that make mals look like proverbial cream cheese. Simply because they don't subscribe to your narrow criteria (and from your most recent vids, neither do your surfboards) doesn't make them bad for the general surfing population.

Ignorance and denial on your part, mals are the worst surfboard design type in existence by a long way..

I am of the same mind as Roy - Mals and mini mals are just awful (never owned one, never shall even ever ride one).

Get on a pro shaped custom board first off and you will become a surfer.; end of.