Surfing Waves

Surfing, I love it, I hate it...I hate it when I cant do it too well and splash around like an injured fish on the few occasions I get to have a go every year. (a week or two in Cornwall) been for the past 6 years.

I hired boards the first few times then bought a 7ft spider exec but got bored and was never really into the shortboard style and thought it was a bit too flash for my tastes. I wasnt getting enough from it. I just wana ride some waves....and cruise.

The first day down in there is always the most frustrating as I try to get to grips with it all again. Balance point, when to paddle, trying to punch through the breakers.

I took a minimal one year and it felt xxxxx to ride..It felt dead under my feet, Id only used it once in tynemouth and maybe twice while down there and decided to get rid of it. I hired a longboard as Id always wanted to ride one...and all it took was one wave to get totally hooked. I had probably the best day Ive ever had in the water with it so I had to have one......So I bought a shiney new Custard Point Classic 9'1. Had some great times with the board the past few times Ive been. The main issue I have when I get out there is I dont feel that in control of it. I feel like the board goes tearing off on the wave and whatever the board does, Im just along for the ride. I do appreciate that longboards are a steady ride and you have to shift more weight around than on a shortboard and they turn from the tail...but......When I get on my feet I seem almost stuck.

I bought the longboarders startup book, maybe have to read that again. I start t get a feel for it and its time to go home and I slip back to a beginner the next time I go. Im going to try to get to tynemouth again hopefully a couple of times before I take the trip to the south west.

Ive started to move around and keep it in trim which does give a bit of control....but I want to be able to point it where I want it to go.

I am trying to get a bit fitter so I can have more energy while in the water this time so that might help catching waves etc.

Any tips that might help Id appreciate anything.


Im never happier than when Im in Cornwall.Having been all over the world and caught waves in many places, it is still my fav place....The place just makes perfect sense to me and I cant wait to get back in that sea and ride some waves. If theres such athing as a spiritual home...Mines the left at Crantock.....If I can improve my ability I feel Id ride more waves and get more out of it and maybe a bit more belief/confidence to catch bigger waves. I rode biketrials for years and my balance is pretty solid, Standing up and staying up is a piece of pish and Ive never had a problem with that part....., I just want to gain more control and turn the board a bit. At times it seems to make no sense at all..until you spring to your feel and your off....and...yes thats why Im out here getting my head dented, my body drained and ripped around and almost tearing my arms off at the shoulders with all the paddling about...


Sometimes it falls into place and iI do well and other times I get ticked off and misrable. I do get the one more wave syndrome and probably spend far too long in the water which saps all energy from this body. It's just hard to get out when Ive waited so long to get in there again.

Im wondering if I should have got a longer longboard...Im about 6'3 but weigh in at a light 75kgs. 9'1 feels short believe it or not when its in the water......no way does it feel as long as it is. possibly because Im standing too far forward and dont use the tail properly to make turns..... It does say in the info "Ideal for surfers in the 10 to 15 stone range who require a pro-performance longboard to surf in both traditional and modern styles" which is the issue I have....pro performance is useless to somebody like me....although they did recommend this board. It should turn on a 50 pence piece if I could just make some progress.

Hi Moody edge ,
I appreciate what you are saying, the time lag thing is a challenge, and obviously more water time would solve a lot of the problems ( unfortunately reality of making a living kicks in).
About the board I don't think a bigger board is going to do much other than make paddling in easier, I just have a feeling that something may not be right with how you have the fins set up. The other thing is it always takes quite a few sessions to understand a new board this cut short for you by limited water time.

Your weight is fine for the board at just over 10 stone so the recommendation is good.
As to the pro performance label it doesn't mean that it isn't functional at lower levels of skill it won't perform at pro levels until you can but it will be versatile all the way up for you.

Post a picture of your board showing the fin set up I might be able to give some advice on that and have a look at Uncle Jaffa's fin primer it may help.
As a goofyfooter the left at Crantock is on my list of spots to surf when I next come to the UK , but that requires a bit of saving.

It sounds like you truly love it , just get yourself a lot more loving and life will be better

jaffa1949 wrote:Hi Moody edge ,
I appreciate what you are saying, the time lag thing is a challenge, and obviously more water time would solve a lot of the problems ( unfortunately reality of making a living kicks in).
About the board I don't think a bigger board is going to do much other than make paddling in easier, I just have a feeling that something may not be right with how you have the fins set up. The other thing is it always takes quite a few sessions to understand a new board this cut short for you by limited water time.

Your weight is fine for the board at just over 10 stone so the recommendation is good.
As to the pro performance label it doesn't mean that it isn't functional at lower levels of skill it won't perform at pro levels until you can but it will be versatile all the way up for you.

Post a picture of your board showing the fin set up I might be able to give some advice on that and have a look at Uncle Jaffa's fin primer it may help.
As a goofyfooter the left at Crantock is on my list of spots to surf when I next come to the UK , but that requires a bit of saving.

It sounds like you truly love it , just get yourself a lot more loving and life will be better

A lot more loving?? ....what do you mean....and life will be better..?

With the closest wave being 120 miles away is the issue that pisses me off..i will make the effort to go maybe once every few months...or....maybe once a month if the swell falls on the right day..........I really envy people who live within....even an hour of good waves......a bare footed walk down to the beach with your board under your arm........to me thats a dream scenario....the simple life...that would be living the dream.....maybe one day...

Heres the stick.....
















"The "classic" model with its superb manouverabilitypaddleability and amazing noseriding characteristics, make this model one of the best "all round" longboard shapes in the world. Designed for the surfer who wants one board to work well in the widest variety of surf conditions. The rocker, planshape and rails work in harmony to make this model a true "classic". Equally at home as a single fin or 3 fin allowing great adaptability and fine tuning. Ideal for surfers in the 10 to 15 stone range who require a pro-performance longboard to surf in both traditional and modern styles. These boards are resin pigmented with cut laps. This gives such a traditional look with much deeper colours. The 2 stringer models in my opinion is the best strength to weight ratio available. With the added bonus of the fin box and leash plug sitting supported between them. And with a highly polished finish"

see what you make of it.i feel if I stand on the tail the baord will instantly bog and sink...........not sure why....Obviously you have to move back and forth to keep it in trim ......which is something I kind of started to get a feel for...keeping it flat.


Turning a surfboard sint much to ask is it? Id love to be able to gain control of the baord and move it where I want it to go. Id be more than happy with the ability to do that and ride more of the wave.

cheers for the help so far

I know I need to be both stronger and fitter...Ive got the surf stronger dvd that I plan to do a few times a week leading up to the 17th sept when I head down south for 10 days...Im doing a few exercises each day too to try to get bit more strength and fitness to help wen i do get out there in that atlantic for some wave therapy.

I love that left even though im regular footed...im not bothered which way really...backside feels just as comfortable as frontside.

Hi Moody edge , had a look at your post and pictures, the fins nothing wrong with the set up there, only tweak might be to try it a single fin, but I'd be reluctant to suggest that if the main thing that is holding you back is consistent and long intervals of surf time.
Why because changing the fin would add another factor to take in on your learning curve.
Your right about the boggy feeling by being at the back too far so moving around your board is the way to go, your positioning seems fine in that picture for the wave there. I think you are being a little harsh on yourself for not getting better under less than ideal conditions.
Bloody hell to have to drive so far and hope you coincide with good conditions, hats off to you.
As for that sentence= rephrased = Sounds like you truly love it (surfing), get yourself more surfing and life will be better.

120 miles, unkind hard question here, can you move?

More surfing....yes...that does sound good. More driving to get it but....thats how it is. I watch the forcast, was going to go this weekend again but its tailed off. Thursday looks good but thats band practice day here....bummer.

Id like to have the confidence to ride bigger waves.....because I know that a bigger wave would probably be much easier to catch as far as paddling and will give me more space to move and speed/float under the board....on 2-3 ft waves every movement needs to be more refined/accurate perhaps.. saving energy is a good thing....even a 4ft wave...If I could spend more ride time on more of them I might get the hang of it faster and save enrgy in the process with the wave count incresing due to a steeper face needing less arm juice to catch...I have caught the odd bigger wave in sets that kinda came out of nowhere and it feels totally different...you feel like your going 5 times faster...Hard to get confidence when you are unfamiliar with the environment I guess. Like learing how to drive on a track day. I think the conditions have a lot to do with it...if its choppy and the waves a 3ft or less, catching them seems much harder to do, as does judging the timing and also the position you need to be in the lineup/takeoff.....The other weekend I went and found myself sitting where shortboarders were and taking off late but it was hard to judge...I do see a lot of people paddling in a far too layed back fashion expecting to get on the wave....Like when somebody has priority and you let them go and they dont get it....I could have had that....
I know before they do that they are out of position and are never going to catch that wave so maybe I know a little bit more than I think I do....

The best days Ive had have been when the conditions are good....off shore, 3.5 feet ish....and there isnt a ripple inbetween the waves, flat calm like a lake then you see the sets roll in from 100 yards away...It's so so easy, you can surf all day and catch wave after wave and still have energy when you get out.



Anyway.

Move, haha yeah, it does sound like the stupidly obvious solution doesnt it, I know. Id much rather move into a place there than one here because theres no incentive to do anyhting here. My fav place in the world is Cornwall and its about an 8 or 9 hour drive, but it's worth it and I can never wait to get down there each year.....Right now being here in North West England it feels like theres nothing here for me. Nobody into what Im into, no waves etc. The local beach has been labelled one of the worst polluted in the country which is nice....and radioactive waste particles were been found on there which no doubt washed along from sellafield/bnfl....very nice. I wouldnt go in there if I was on fire. My dads mate who surfs has said to me a few times 'it dont matter if it's flat, get out there and flat water paddle' a good idea but.....Not that keen with that water having 'Unexplainable, out of control levels of bacteria/viruses' a recent paper report said.

240 miles round trip takes the shine off it a little and aggravates my back and neck issue but I get to surf which is a real privilege. I spent over 5 hours in the water the other weekend when I went over there, 1st time Id been in since my holiday last year. It was hard work, no wonder I was tired.

Theres something strange about being out the back of the breakers waiting that feels very normal.......I dont know what it is....Just out there with a few of your own thoughts passing like clouds and feeling happy to wait, which is an unusual thing for a human being...being to be happy to wait.

I got hooked on wave catching in Oz in 1995. Best holiday Ive ever had. I found a busted board on palm beach and took it back to my aunties house where we were staying. They planned to get it fixed and shipped over with the body baord Id bought while ogoing to Cornwall too because she likes seeing me happy and my mood changes as soon as we cross the county borderline and I see that sign. It is true, something in me changes..Like my emotion goes from blue to bright orange instantly...Every year she says ' I think I will go in this year and have a go'......it hasnt happened yet but you can always hope.....Who knows, she might get the bug too

I always said Id love to live down there but thought it was totally unrealistic with the cost of living there etc..but last week we looked into it and if we both worked down there we actually could....maybe that seed is now planted in my head for good knowing I maybe could go there some day.

moodyedge wrote:I always said Id love to live down there but thought it was totally unrealistic with the cost of living there etc..but last week we looked into it and if we both worked down there we actually could....maybe that seed is now planted in my head for good knowing I maybe could go there some day.

This is very cliche, but I'm a firm believer in chasing what makes you happy in this world. If that's living by the water, then maybe that needs to become your new focus. As someone who has spent in inordinate amount of time in school/training, I have zero tolerance anymore for the whole 'waiting to be happy' approach and although there are practicalities to consider in this world, at the end of the day it's all about maximizing your happiness.

Disclaimer here: I am just a voice on the internet who knows nothing about your life so take what I say with a huge grain of salt.

moodyedge wrote:I always said Id love to live down there but thought it was totally unrealistic with the cost of living there etc..but last week we looked into it and if we both worked down there we actually could....maybe that seed is now planted in my head for good knowing I maybe could go there some day.

Move. I used to live in London, and do the 200 mile trip ro Devon/Cornwall almost every weekend, then moved... And now that
<-
is the view from my bedroom window

Cornwall isn't so far

Much easier said and thought about than done of course...much easier.

I have a major catch 22. I dont want top move in with my girlfriend here......I dont want top move into anywhere here to be honest....but down there I would...Ive got family up here...and a dog..sounds daft but the dog is the one Id probably miss the most, we enjoy each others company but theres no way my mam would have him going anywhere. My dad works in aberdeen so I hardly see him much anyway.

I always used to say arh offer me the chance to go to Oz and Id go tomorrow...but.......I hadnt really considered other things. Id still be in england if nothing else if I headed for the west country.


anyway....

I did the drive again yesterday, It was waist high and offshore for most of the day....probably spent 5 hours in the water and 5 hours driving.....I slept like a log lastnight . I figured out that the last time I was there a few weeks ago I was laying too far forward on my baord so the tail must have been dragging while I was paddling for waves......Im talking like 2 cms too far forward...the board feels so sensitive....As it does when Im standing up on it...I had a mess around anyway and caught some good waves, I still dont really feel that in control however.

Every answer you find by doing sticks in the proprioreceptors of your nervous system that feeds back to govern your balance and muscular fien tuning it relates to your middle ear and the single synapse links between your brain and the spinal cord with loops to the vestibular system.
What this means simply is you are training a new stimulus response system and it takes time (even to write it out in an easy form).
BTW when are too far forward even by 2cms you are trying to push the rocker through the water like a snow plough (English spelling).
Think see saw forward= tail up, when you are too far back= nose up you are trying to push the bulk of the bottom of the board again like a snow plough. (English spelling).. look at the rocker of your board float it on the water without you on it. push it around at speed with your hands, in what position does the board glide with the least resistance? That's the position you try to adopt for maximum efficiency paddling.

Every learning improves your surfing, go forth and be fruitful

I appreciate all the comments so far.

surf doc wrote:
This is very cliche, but I'm a firm believer in chasing what makes you happy in this world. If that's living by the water, then maybe that needs to become your new focus. As someone who has spent in inordinate amount of time in school/training, I have zero tolerance anymore for the whole 'waiting to be happy' approach and although there are practicalities to consider in this world, at the end of the day it's all about maximizing your happiness.

That might be a solution to existential angst. Whats the point of anything is a tough question to try and answer

Cue song " Don't worry be happy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d-diB65scQU

Only 120 miles eh. 200 as the crow flies from Kent. A solid 6 1/2 hour drive each way D:

I am lucky in that I go to university in Swansea, Wales, which is very close to waves. I take my board on the bus on days when no one else wants to go.

After university I am definitely moving to where there are waves. To be able to surf every day would be massive, a huge privilage. Even at the moment I am lucky to get out twice in one week.

Keep at it. Don't worry about moving too much, everyone leaves the nest at some point. You will still be able to visit. The only problem is the lack of decent jobs.

is just wanting to live near the sea and surf....selfish? a waste? a pointless existence? In the eyes of a modern society certainly....It doesnt amount to anything in the sense of modern society, then again maybe thats the point.

moodyedge wrote: In the eyes of a modern society certainly....It doesnt amount to anything in the sense of modern society

What does?
Making money? Getting famous? All bull$h1t.
Doing something 'good' for someone/something? That can be done anywhere.

The eyes of modern society really dont care - they're too busy tracking how many friends they have on facebook - so do what's right for you.



(Ladies and gentlemen, this announcement was brought to you by The DBBB MidLife Crisis (part II) during which time he shall be quitting his job, dropping out, and reevaluating his own goals and what's important. Thank you)

drowningbitbybit wrote:

moodyedge wrote: In the eyes of a modern society certainly....It doesnt amount to anything in the sense of modern society

What does?
Making money? Getting famous? All bull$h1t.
Doing something 'good' for someone/something? That can be done anywhere.

The eyes of modern society really dont care - they're too busy tracking how many friends they have on facebook - so do what's right for you.



(Ladies and gentlemen, this announcement was brought to you by The DBBB MidLife Crisis (part II) during which time he shall be quitting his job, dropping out, and reevaluating his own goals and what's important. Thank you)

I hear ya. I do tend to take things seriously.......which is usually seen as a negative thing...but maybe what I take seriously merits that due to the fact that is what I care about........call it my passion.............? Possibly.

The conflict between the aesthetic, ethical and religious modes of life as covered in 19th cen philosophy, Kierkegaard, nietzsche etc.

I recall my mam saying once that all Im bothered about/interested in is leisure.....maybe Im not quite misrable enough yet

Whats right is whats right for the individual, whats true is an individuals subjective truth and so on.

Sorry to ramble....It is a surf forum not a philosophy forum.

I came across this guy and his videos the other day. Pretty funny stuff..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAQrsA3m8Bg

I live 10 minutes walk from the beach and I still get frustrated on days (or heaven forbid, weeks) of flatness. If you live further away then at least there's an excuse to not go surfing LOL.

Katsura wrote:I live 10 minutes walk from the beach and I still get frustrated on days (or heaven forbid, weeks) of flatness. If you live further away then at least there's an excuse to not go surfing LOL.

Well there is that......If its flat I dont go.........I wont go unless the conditions are looking good......Luckily the handful of times I have been, the forcast has been bang on. I wouldnt like to drive that far and it be crap so I dont chance it unkess it's looking pretty good. The past 2 weeks aint been great...I want to get in again really before the trip south.

Hey man, just wanna add something. You don't have to surf just because there are waves you know! This idea that you can be a surfer in areas of the world that are obviously not suited to the activity is just hype from corporations that want MONEY. I live in London x_x but was born near the beach far away from here where one can play in the surf all year, no rubber in fact just you if you want because body surfing is really where it's at, my grandpa my great grandpa even my gggggggrandpa were doing it ;D (but I have been ridding boards for near on 40 yrs). I tried it here recently and it's just not right, all that rubber n crap. Plus think on this, the surf report I read (which I've barred from this computer gave the surf here in Cornwall? 4 & 5 stars last week and it was ON-SHORE hahaha what a joke! So not what surfing is. What it really is here is BS and you shouldn't beat yourself up about what big companies are telling you how to be! Also all this rubbish I read here about localism and stuff, what a jerk-off, get a life creepies, what the heck are you protecting! Why do you need that? Have you tried sk8 boarding. I got a longboard sk8y and truly it's a blast It's more like surfing than surfing here fo shu; no rubber, no leg rope, no crowds hassling you(I'm supposing at some stage there are crowds because I read that creepy crap about ppl from London surfing where they are not wanted n stuff). Another thing is an Indo board. One of those and a nice over 42" 4wheeler and a few pre 1975 surf vids and I think your'e gonna be more of a surfer than most of the pretenders here brah ^_^
Aloha
theedtree
I only wrote this so you can see that not everyone thinks it's all that and to help you de-stress a little (also cause I'm bored ha).
Plus absolutely no offence intended to those who do it. I guess it's better than going to the gym. Just saying that the guy is stressed about not fitting into someone else's lie a lie that has really wrecked something that once was really very unique and beautiful but has been so corrupted by corporate greed!!! X_X

moodyedge wrote:is just wanting to live near the sea and surf....selfish? a waste? a pointless existence? In the eyes of a modern society certainly....It doesnt amount to anything in the sense of modern society, then again maybe thats the point.

One of the benefits of modern society is if you think about and act accordingly you can create the lifestyle and location to live it in you wnt.
If you buy a house live in an area and buy locally you are supporting a whole flowing infrastructure and your life has meaning for you.
Bet what you do can be translated to another location that enables you to surf, it is just up to you to create that opportunity.
When you are fulfilled in your life it is so much easier to reach out and give to others from your full cup.
Now here is the essence as I see it, surfing is not fashion, it is not the thing you surf the wave on , it is not brand names or because ( insert name here) surfs.
It is only because you surf and it is your personal relationship with everything within that, that gives it it's own unique meaning for you

My mother thought I would grow out of surfing because to her it represented everything you have written.
I tailored my life around surfing I gained two university degrees had a thirty five year long Health Practice I still get flown around Australia to do Lifestyle training programs, I get to surf at home and overseas and have done for 54 years, pointless, a waste,.
I would invite anyone who remains unhappy with their lifestyle to begin to look at changing it for more towards what you desire.
If it take work do it if it take a move , plan it and do it.

These thought to Moody if you wish PM me or I can do an open set of suggestions on the forum. (which may help others in similar situations).

BTW one size doesn't fit all.