Surfing Waves

Relative beginner here, but have been surfing pretty much every day for 6 months on my 9'6". I can comfortable catch waves, ride them down the face, bottom turn, turn, etc etc. I look like I know what I'm doing out there.....until the end.

When you've run out of wave to ride and just getting pushed to shore in the whitewater, what are you supposed to do? I just fall off on purpose so I have less of a paddle out. I've seen short boarders cut back over the whitewater and start paddling back out. On my longboard, this is difficult.

I've searched youtube and the like for videos of 'ending a ride' correctly, and am coming up short. I've tried to see what others are doing, some are sitting down on their boards and stopping the momentum, others cutting back and sitting down, most just wipe out.

So, how do I end my ride on a longboard gracefully? Any videos or instructional sites you could point me to?

You should be able to do the same "cut back" move. Are you trimming forward as the wave weakens? That could be what's making it difficult. Maybe step back to the tail, give a pump or two, then pivot up and over the whitewash.

Huh, yeah, I guess I'm not trimming forward at all when it weakens. I'm just kind of letting the momentum die, leaning backwards without moving my feet. In fact, it looks like I'm going to have to bone up on trimming, I move my feet once after the initial pop up to get the best position for the ride once i've caught the wave. In fact, once I do once the wave is caught is exactly what I'm practicing now.

Thanks for the heads up, will try it today.

If it's a beachbreak just keep going, ride right up to the beach and just hop off the board. Why waste part of the wave ? People think it's beneath them to do this but that's partly because it's harder than it looks !

Roy_Stewart wrote:If it's a beachbreak just keep going, ride right up to the beach and just hop off the board. Why waste part of the wave ? People think it's beneath them to do this but that's partly because it's harder than it looks !

Well polish my varnish, I'm glad someone else does the old step onto sand ending done well it's a statement, done badly its a face plant.The other way is like you coming from your bottom turn to a turn at the top ( which you don't do) and you just keep going up and out of the wave, timing is important in any ending of the wave. Learn by watching.

If you head through the video to 7.15, you can see exactly how i like to exit a wave!

http://www.youtube.com/user/Harmergeddo ... m-OdTeOyVs

KS

What can i say, except, "I feel the need for mead."

Ha ha ha, those were the days!

I usually do a couple back steps and sit on the board and look at all the hot chicks checking me out. Try it--it looks good!

LOL, like @shaggieshapiro said, try sitting on your board for the chicks to look at you. I've seen Kelly do this on a short board.

I just fall backwards. If someone is watching I sometimes jump and belly flop with my arms stretched out, I find it quite funny even if they don't.

I'm with Roy and Jaffa, I like to ride the wave to the end. Be careful stepping off the board, however, as you could twist an ankle if you're going too fast so try to slow it down. Sometimes in bigger surf and riding frontside, I'll ride up onto the beachbreak and when it's about to dump on me i'll dive headfirst into and through the wave (parallel to the bottom not down towards it). It's a lot of fun, and usually your board will get sucked through the wave with you.

surf doc wrote:I'm with Roy and Jaffa, I like to ride the wave to the end. Be careful stepping off the board, however, as you could twist an ankle if you're going too fast so try to slow it down. Sometimes in bigger surf and riding frontside, I'll ride up onto the beachbreak and when it's about to dump on me i'll dive headfirst into and through the wave (parallel to the bottom not down towards it). It's a lot of fun, and usually your board will get sucked through the wave with you.

Doc.
Try an island pullout or a standing island pull out in the shore break.
What are they AS you come to the final crunch in the shorebreak, run to the nose of your board, for an island pull out force the nose down slightly on the inside rail while crouching and grabbing the outside rail free the tail towards the beach and swing nose into the face of the wave penetrate and pop out the back, very cool exciting and scary all at the same time.
Standing island do the same thing whilst standing like a Hawaiian Kahuna

jaffa1949 wrote:

surf doc wrote:I'm with Roy and Jaffa, I like to ride the wave to the end. Be careful stepping off the board, however, as you could twist an ankle if you're going too fast so try to slow it down. Sometimes in bigger surf and riding frontside, I'll ride up onto the beachbreak and when it's about to dump on me i'll dive headfirst into and through the wave (parallel to the bottom not down towards it). It's a lot of fun, and usually your board will get sucked through the wave with you.

Doc.
Try an island pullout or a standing island pull out in the shore break.
What are they AS you come to the final crunch in the shorebreak, run to the nose of your board, for an island pull out force the nose down slightly on the inside rail while crouching and grabbing the outside rail free the tail towards the beach and swing nose into the face of the wave penetrate and pop out the back, very cool exciting and scary all at the same time.
Standing island do the same thing whilst standing like a Hawaiian Kahuna

On an alaia style board, this is also the start of doing a 360, but you need to be a little more towards the center of the board.

Very cool looking, I'm going to try practice this.

dude
when the wave starts to fade "kick out".
weight to back of board, 90 degree R or L turn depending which way the break is running.
that takes you up and over the top, puts you behind wave.
less paddle out time

Ideally, you lean back and pivot your board out of the wave, but falling off works just as good...

themathteacher wrote:
Ideally, you lean back and pivot your board out of the wave.

That's only one of many methods.

, but falling off works just as good...

It certainly does not, falling off as a means of ending rides is messy, incompetent and dangerous.

You are spreading misinformation and kookery by advocating it, and your grammar is appalling.

.

Roy I agree with you that just letting yourself fall off is not a good option.
Now I would like to suggest to you that as this is an international forum, some of our posters may not be using correct grammar or in fact be using idiomatic language, they might even be using( heaven forbid) an Internet translator. Grammatically and pedantically you are correct. SO!

9ft of board plus 9ft of leash is an awful long distance to not be sure where your board is going at the end of a ride, but an unfortunate part of learning. Just bear it in mind while you are learning.

jaffa1949 wrote:Roy I agree with you that just letting yourself fall off is not a good option.
Now I would like to suggest to you that as this is an international forum, some of our posters may not be using correct grammar or in fact be using idiomatic language, they might even be using( heaven forbid) an Internet translator. Grammatically and pedantically you are correct. SO!

Is there a translator from pidgin USA English to the real thing?