Surfing Waves

I've spent the last 2 years learning to surf on a 7 ft. gun, and I'm really interested in buying a longbaord because they look like so much fun. I'm not sure what size to get though? I'm sure I could learn to ride it fairly quickly, so I'm guessing that I shouldn't pick a size because it will be easier or harder to learn on. I basically want to find the right size that will be the most fun to ride. What differences are there or advantages are there between different lengths? I'm 6 ft and about 165 lbs, and surf in NJ mostly. Any advice? Thanks

Tim

I can never figure out pounds! But I think it's about 11 1/2 stone or about 75kgs right? Maybe it's a British thing or maybe I'm just a bit thick!

Anyway - for a longboard it really depends on what sort of board you go for - are you after a retro 70's feel - singlefin, smooth turns, soul arching, cross-stepping your way along the wave?

Or is it more like a longboard that you can throw around a bit, take out in bigger stuff if you have to but still get to the nose and have fun in smaller waves?

I ride a McTavish Fireball which is the best all-rounder in my opinion (views anyone?). If you went for a Fireball then I'd recommend around a 9'4" to 9'6" by 23" wide and about 2 7/8" to 3" thick.

If you want realy retro feel then you could probably go up to 10' but you'd need to make sure all the other aspects of the board were suited to retro styling like the rails, the channels, the rocker etc.

And the other way round, if you want a higher performance board then you'd go shorter as it would be easier to turn and you'd want to maybe go a bit narrower and thinner too.

I could start wibbling on about the rail shapes, fin set up, concaves etc but I think people woudl doze off! ha ha

Hope this helps and let us know what you go for - photos please?

Hey, Thanks for the help!
I think its 2.2 lbs = 1 kg, so Id be just about 75 kg.

I'm looking for something thats smooth and graceful, that I can noseride and still have some sort of control of, not like a giant giant board that might be really tough to turn or maneuver. I'm thinking from what I've read and your reply something around 9'6" seems to be my best bet. Everyone seems to be riding something close to that size.

If you want to go on about rails and fins etc. I could actually use your advice, I'm trying to decide what length to begin with and then I'm buying a balsa blank from this guy in ecuador, I'm going to be shaping and designing most of this myself, so I'm going to need to learn sooner or later. I'm fairly confident in my ability to build it, just not in my knowledge of what will do what, so I have alot of learning to do. Thanks again

Tim

Well good on you for having a bash at shaping your own! Good luck! There must be a terrific sense of achievement paddling out for the first time on a board you've made yourself!

If you are looking for an old school feel to you board there are a few design cues that will help. Keep the rails 50:50 - meaning the curve on the top and the curve on the bottom are identical. This make for smooth rail to rail transitions the way you see the old boys doing it - the board can almost swing from side to side as you surf it.

Modern longboards have much sharper rails to help with control, and to help in bigger waves, but this also means alot the fluidity and smoothness is removed.

You want to keep the rocker fairly flat to give it plenty of glide. A subtle concave under the nose to help noseriding.

Fin-wise - I'd go a single glassed in fin - it would look fabulous. Plenty of volume near the base of the fin, plenty of rake and then a narrower tip. Look at Tyler's surfboards from the link here - Tyler Surfboards - these are the sorts of shapes and fins you want to be replicating. He's the master.

and I should mention there is a HUGE wealth of advice and expert knowledge avalable here: http://www.swaylocks.com/

thanks. that will definately help me out a bit. im psyched to give this a try

I have a 9 ft robert august, and its a really good board. It turns good, noserides good, it feels really good catching a wave. maybe try roberts boards.
www.roberaugust.com

jonny wrote:Anyway - for a longboard it really depends on what sort of board you go for - are you after a retro 70's feel - singlefin, smooth turns, soul arching, cross-stepping your way along the wave?

Or is it more like a longboard that you can throw around a bit, take out in bigger stuff if you have to but still get to the nose and have fun in smaller waves?

I ride a McTavish Fireball which is the best all-rounder in my opinion (views anyone?). If you went for a Fireball then I'd recommend around a 9'4" to 9'6" by 23" wide and about 2 7/8" to 3" thick.

If you want realy retro feel then you could probably go up to 10' but you'd need to make sure all the other aspects of the board were suited to retro styling like the rails, the channels, the rocker etc.

And the other way round, if you want a higher performance board then you'd go shorter as it would be easier to turn and you'd want to maybe go a bit narrower and thinner too.

I could start wibbling on about the rail shapes, fin set up, concaves etc but I think people woudl doze off! ha ha

Hope this helps and let us know what you go for - photos please?

Hi Loose, do you still reckon a McTavish Fireball is the best all-rounder?

I am 6ft and 14stone (196lbs), just caught first unbroken wave and rode down the line last week on my 8'6" southpoint pop-out, but only able to catch waves over 3ft (which kills my fun as only a few of those where I surf - north coast of ireland), so looking to go longer.

Was recommended 9'6" robert august "what i ride" from surftech but can't get one till first week december, and I'm hungry for action now!

Not bothered about nose-riding, just wanna catch more unbroken waves. Do you recommend the mcTavish fireball and if so which size for me - (if its PU, maybe 10' would be equal of the 9'6" epoxy ?)

much appreciated..

Dude, at 165lbs any longboard will preety much do. If you want performance get a 9ft that is skinny and thin.

But, if you want glide and noseride than your are spot on on the 9'6", just get one with get one that is preety flat and thick and wide. The McTavish seems like a great board for you, just when you get to see it in person make sure it's not shaped like a banana, a lot of rocker helps performance but just slows down the board.

Enjoy!

themathteacher wrote:Dude, at 165lbs any longboard will preety much do. If you want performance get a 9ft that is skinny and thin.

But, if you want glide and noseride than your are spot on on the 9'6", just get one with get one that is preety flat and thick and wide. The McTavish seems like a great board for you, just when you get to see it in person make sure it's not shaped like a banana, a lot of rocker helps performance but just slows down the board.

Enjoy!

Thanks teech!
Just to point out I am 195lbs (was prolly 165lbs 20years ago when I was 17). But thanks for tips on board shape!

zorba wrote:only able to catch waves over 3ft (which kills my fun as only a few of those where I surf - north coast of ireland), so looking to go longer.

you sure your surfing in ireland mate??.... check the charts for tuesday.. you'll be doing well to find a 3ft wave anywhere on the coast.

garbarrage wrote:

zorba wrote:only able to catch waves over 3ft (which kills my fun as only a few of those where I surf - north coast of ireland), so looking to go longer.

you sure your surfing in ireland mate??.... check the charts for tuesday.. you'll be doing well to find a 3ft wave anywhere on the coast.

was in portballintrae on tues, it was 1.5ft max, everywhere else near portrush was flat as a pancake

mad thing is, magic seaweed had portrush down as a five star day for the same day, with 8ft overhead breaking!

I think the swell the west and south are getting is coming from that storm off the coast of France, SW of Ireland - maybe its not wrapping round to us guys up here

msw gives 5stards for wed and thurs next week portrush, 18ft and 14secs period ... but a bit wary of msw as it got it big style wrong on tuesday (after a 80minute drive, not cool)

must learn how to read the swell charts so not relying on msw

anyway, glad u guys in sligo are getting good swell - slan