Restarting after 15 years- is it me, the board, or the waves

[bajoman]

Hi All,
I surfed in college in San Diego (learned and struggled on a shortboard!) and I am finally getting back to it after 15 years, but this time on the East Coast (NY). I am 6' and 163 lbs (75kg).

Here are my questions for your kind consideration--- I have been struggling catching waves on the used 9'2 epoxy longboard I picked up at the end of the summer. And when I do make the drop I seem to be pearling and/or digging a rail and wiping out fairly quickly. I feel that I did much better earlier in the summer on rental boards, an 8' softop egg shape and an 8'6 epoxy mini-mal (same maker as my longboard) and didn't have these problems catching waves or pearling right-off. I thought the longer board (which is in great shape) was supposed to make it EASIER to catch waves and MORE STABLE on the drop but I seem to be experiencing the opposite. So is it me, is it the board, or is it just the difference in wave conditions from day-to-day?

Also, the surfshop owner asked me if the waves "have any push" and I have heard that phrase again in the line-up. Is "push" a real thing with waves and if so, could that be part of the problem?

Thanks Guys and Gals, I appreciate any wisdom and either way, I am ecstatic to be back among the waves and fellow surfers.

[billie_morini]

Glad you're back in the wet and have the stoke!

1. So is it me, is it the board, or is it just the difference in wave conditions from day-to-day?
Long boards make it way easier to catch small to medium waves. I think the waves you have encountered with the long board are different than when you rented boards and they are different than when you surfed in San Diego. I suspect you have been out recently on days when the waves are going vertical relatively quickly. Pearling usually indicates you are taking off too late. It also happens when the waves stand up real fast (because you can't actually take off early enough). This problem really shows itself when using long board on small waves due to the long length of the board compared to the waves height. So now, take off sooner.

2. Long boards are vastly more stable and easier to catch waves with than shorter boards. So, it's you. A long board isn't magic. You still have to read the waves and currents and, above all, take off early enough and fast enough. Are you paddling as hard as you can and at the correct time? I think you just need more time in the water.

3. The surfshop owner asked me if the waves "have any push" and I have heard that phrase again in the line-up. Is "push" a real thing with waves and if so, could that be part of the problem?
Push to me is the energy the wave has. The more it has, the faster the ride will be. Also the more it has, the smaller the board you can use. If there is not enough wave push (the way I use the term), then I can't use my shorter board very well. There has to be a noticeable amount of energy or push for my shorter board to be stable and able to catch the wave.


I learned to surf at age 47, so I know you are going to get it going because you are simply returning to surfing. You should get a buddy to watch what you are doing and tell you what you need to do better. It's very easy for someone who knows how to surf to help like this. If you don't know anybody, ask some of the old guys at the break to do this for you. Old guys rule

[prawerski]

Hmmm, sounds to me like it could be a couple things. But when I read your post the first thing that came to mind for me was the fact that you are now surfing a 9 ft board as opposed to a shorty. I don't know much about your experience surfing or how the transition has gone but I'm wondering if you are trying to catch the waves in the same place on your 9 footer as you did on your short board. You need to/can catch waves much further out when riding a longboard. Too often have I seen longboarders trying to catch waves where the shortboarders are hanging out. They always end up pearling, crashing, and getting frustrated. So if you haven't tried paddling out a little past where you normally do, I'd give that a shot.

[drunkmrhat]

man i would take some surf lessons man that will help you

[bajoman]

Thanks for the advice guys! The waves were jacking up quickly and no one was able to get into them early so you're probably right about that being a problem. Also, there was a HEAVY offshore wind (probably 15 knots?) and I've heard that can also be a problem, especially on an epoxy board. The rest of the issues I'll take credit for!
But I am happy to say that I had a GREAT session after my post and am totally stoked. I watched a video on shaper Dewey Weber's site and tried something that seemed to make a huge difference (again not totally sure if the success was me or the conditions but at least I've ruled out blaming my board): Before my pop-up, I put my palms flat on the deck (I used to grab the rails) and arched my back. This seems to push my nose up at the right time to keep from pearling it when I hop to my feet. Now if I can just get that drop-knee turn down...

[billie_morini]

bajoman,
Really appreciate the follow-up. It's even better because you have the stoke!
Here is one more reason you have to surf and not stop: I've recently been diagnosed with herniated discs in my neck and my orthopedic surgeon told me I will not surf this winter. (Winter in California is surfing season.) So, you've got to catch my waves, as well as, your own.
billie