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Time to change board?

PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 10:22 am
by APH
Hi was after some advice.
Have been surfing now for approx 2yrs and for the last year on a 9'6 x 22 3/4 x3 3/8 version of these boards
http://www.fullcirclesurf.com.au/index. ... &Itemid=90

I'm about 5'10 and 93kg and find I'm struggling to catch many waves on it. Once I catch one I'm ok ( for a complete beginner) its just catching them thats the issue. Have spoken to local shapers, have been taking lessons again to improve (9'4 school board no problem), other surfers
and the advice has been
Lose weight (Doc told me to lose 10 kg and was wondering if that would significantly help or not with bouyancy
Get a longer board, slightly wider and thicker
or get a custom made with more volume in the tail
Also was suggested that because I'm so slow on popping up i'm causing the brakes to be jammed on
I'm only getting to the beach fortnightly right now so my skill progession is so so
Any other suggestions?
Thanks in advance

Re: Time to change board?

PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2010 12:11 pm
by jaffa1949
As Chiropractor and and a longboard surfer, that board should get you into any wave you want. The weight is a problem for both your surfing and your health 10kgs off will improve your floatation but unless you get paddle fit as part of your weight loss program then the flexibility to pop up won't be there
Hey a surf to get fit program yes..... I was seriously overweight for a Trip to Tonga some years back, IMO I wasted the trip as my tonnage stopped me from catching anything good.
Loose weight have fun unless the the board is a total dog it's about you getting into shape.
Get ripped and rip :D

Re: Time to change board?

PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 7:31 am
by APH
I hear what your saying jaffa1949 about the fitness. I have all the best intentions on working on my fitness but the fridge keeps getting in the way .One thing holding me back is my shoulders and all the ititises....arthritis...bursitis...tendonititis..etc thanks to my work and ageing I guess(spot the guy who is still coming to terms with turning 40).Cortisone shot made last summer a great one but dont want to make them a regular part of my life.. I did demo a 10 footer last year and found it great to paddle and stand on but turning it was an issue.
http://www.triggerbrothers.com.au/index ... Itemid=114
Went for my 9'6 instead. Local shaper does a 10' version of my board with more width and volume but am unsure if 10' is to big for a beginner level surfer as its alot of board to control. Hmmmmm do I go for a board for my current condition or perservere and work on my fitness in and out of the water? What do other people do who surf and have shoulder issues (apart from putting up with it)Any tips welcome
Cheers

Re: Time to change board?

PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2010 9:52 am
by jaffa1949
APH wrote:I hear what your saying jaffa1949 about the fitness. I have all the best intentions on working on my fitness but the fridge keeps getting in the way .One thing holding me back is my shoulders and all the ititises....arthritis...bursitis...tendonititis..etc thanks to my work and ageing I guess(spot the guy who is still coming to terms with turning 40).Cortisone shot made last summer a great one but dont want to make them a regular part of my life.. I did demo a 10 footer last year and found it great to paddle and stand on but turning it was an issue.
http://www.triggerbrothers.com.au/index ... Itemid=114
Went for my 9'6 instead. Local shaper does a 10' version of my board with more width and volume but am unsure if 10' is to big for a beginner level surfer as its alot of board to control. Hmmmmm do I go for a board for my current condition or perservere and work on my fitness in and out of the water? What do other people do who surf and have shoulder issues (apart from putting up with it)Any tips welcome
Cheers

Aah, mate there is the problem as a matched set, the over weight adds to the set of itises.
Get a good supportive team of health professionals to help you meet you wishes.
Chiro, physio,doctor and masseuse, they should all know of each other and be able to work together in your best interests. A sports medicine clinic would be good, since you are possibly in Victoria Australia (trigger bros territory) I know there are sports clinic there.

Spend the time and effort rebuilding your joints and specifically you shoulders, getting a bigger board will only delay the worsening of your injuries.

Now about the fridge, try a simple thing, if you feel peckish have a glass of water, often we mistake thirst for hunger. Scare yourself write down everything that passes your lips for a week. it might give you food for thought (sorry about the pun). You may see some changes you need to make.
PM me if you wish, I'm now retired from practice but maybe I can put you in touch with someone who is working. Otherwise I can only give general advise.

Anything that will get you surfing :)

Re: Time to change board?

PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 6:20 am
by APH
Was wondering what impact removing the side fins would have if any on wave catching ability. Gather the board would be looser but was told it may make paddling easier and faster. True? False? Bit of both?
Cheers

Re: Time to change board?

PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2010 12:09 pm
by jaffa1949
APH wrote:Was wondering what impact removing the side fins would have if any on wave catching ability. Gather the board would be looser but was told it may make paddling easier and faster. True? False? Bit of both?
Cheers


It will be marginally easier to paddle, if you use a thruster configuration of three equal smaller fins and take two away the centre fin won't hold in a power turn and you will slide out unless you are a very capable surfer, especially if you have a bigger tail rocker to make the long board perform like a shortboard. Answer try it and see and then try a bigger deeper centre fin , go with the one that suits you now at your level.
BTW the single fin is a lot more curvaceous in the arcs it describes through a turn, three fins allow you to be punchier and more angular in your turns. Experiment, learn choose have FUN

Re: Time to change board?

PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 6:54 am
by APH
Experimented today by removing the two side fins and surfing with just the 8". Still struggled catching much but the board had a looser, faster feel. Think I'm hooked!!! Was told that the 8" was enough for my9'6 board but I was under the impression a board of that size needs at least 9" . Have been reading up on fins and have come away with more confusion than clarity. As a whitewash catcher what size, shape, style etc should I be looking at? Or at my level of skill not important what fin. Am happy enough to surf straight to the beach with my patented "i've turned the board and not sure how style". Fast progressive surfing not in my immediate future. Any recommendations? Thanks

Re: Time to change board?

PostPosted: Sat Dec 11, 2010 12:04 pm
by jaffa1949
You're on your way, just keep tweaking for your own style enjoyment cancels a lot of the itises, more improves more!
good stuff :D