Surfing Waves

Hi
I surf in Spain on the Mediteranean coast. The waves are often steep and fast shorebreaks. Closeout as well.

Being 62 years of age and only surfing 3 years does not make it more easy.

I am looking for something 9.6 x 22.5 x 3 inch So I get a lot of glide and can be in on the wave early and get just a little bit of unbroken wave surfing.

I manage that quite well already. To much envey from the younger surfers with shorter boards.

The board I have, however has very little rocker and is difficult to surf on steep waves.

I am looking for a shape that has more lift towards the nose. Lots of forward rocker I think would be right.

So I can get my weight well forward to get speed and the forward curve keep the nose up.

The photo is a board I tried on Fuerteventura. I worked well on steep waves, but was only 8 foot 1 inch. Also I think a long board should have a rounded nose.

I hope somebody have some ideas. Thanks in advance.

Torben

???? longboards are not for beginners/progressing, longboarding is a style of its own. most beginners start with mals or even mini-mals and progress to shortboards. how can a snapturn be more rewarding than a noseride?? its two completely different things!

I concur....

Video showing Mediteranean waves


The question is:

Being 62 years of age weight 93 kg with 3 years surf experiance. I can surf unbroken waves of 3 feet, but I do not controll the direction of the board.

Looking at the type of waves and the board. Should I change the board or just keep learning with the board I have ??? It is not me on any of the photos ar video.

Torben

Torben

That's a good board for a beginner in the med.

Don't overthink or over-analyze things just yet.

Stick with that longboard for a while until you can make bottom turns, go left and right and make turns to get around sections. If you have trouble turning the board, or controlling the direction like you say, then take the side fins out and it will feel looser.

Once you get the basics down then you can think about downshifting to a smaller board. You will still need something wide and floaty so i would suggest a fish type board or similar (i'm no expert but that's what worked for me)

prettyrich71 wrote:???? longboards are not for beginners/progressing, longboarding is a style of its own. most beginners start with mals or even mini-mals and progress to shortboards. how can a snapturn be more rewarding than a noseride?? its two completely different things!

who's had a bad day then

Hi Torben,

sory for jumping your post but were abouts in the med do you surf? I went costadell sol last year and on the last day clean 3 foot waves came rolling in I couldnt belive it. I didnt think the med got waves?