Surfing Waves

Me = 6'0, 195lbs (13stone12, 90kg), 37yo male looking for a longboard.
surfing north coast of ireland (causeway coast)

I bought a 8'6" Southpoint epoxy "longboard" a while back, but I've worked out in between that for my size and weight its essentially a minimal. Using it I can only catch green waves above 3ft and whitewater, and there are a lot of waves where I surf (North coast of Ireland) that are smaller than this..... so getting frustrated.

Was recommended a Robert August 9'6" What I Ride (surftech)- anyone any experience to share of this ?
Only problem is that I have to wait 6weeks plus for delivery if I order , so would consider an equivalent from another shaper/manufacturer as I got the horn for surfing right now.
dims are: nose 18", width 22.875", tail 15", thick 3", volume 81cc, fins 2+1
price approx £700

Local shaper can do me a glass one for £350 in same dims approx, but 4-6week wait
Because of the delay, Can anyone recommend me an equivalent?
Want something that catches waves under 3ft, from 1ft-3ft basically (doesn't need to handle big waves as would use the 8'6" for anything big, and would eventually acquire a hybrid or fish for bigger days anyhow). Not bothered about noseriding especially, and read on here that boards adapted for noseriding compromise too many other aspects (harder to catch waves, paddle-speed, pearling etc.).

Some say that epoxy's aren't great in choppy conditions. I don't know how choppy my local coast is in the grand scheme of things (hangs head in shame), ie. in comparison to the "norm". Can anyone help here ?

Another local shop can get me a polyurethane custom board off Bill Atlee within few working days. both £450-500 approx
"Classic Triple" 9'4", w=23.5", n=19.25", t=15.5", THICK=3.2", pintail
"Noserider" 9'6", w=23.5", N=19.25", T=16", thick=3.2, squash tail
The noserider I would pass on for reasons outlined a few paragraphs back.
The classic also seems a bit heavy on the nose end, like Bill's noserider, Is this correct?

thanks in advance!

Hi - reckon it is your skill level and not the board you have at them moment. You are the same weight and height as I am and I'm no expert at all - still struggling to get out back etc most days - a bit too scary! But, I am riding a custom 7ft 8 which is 22 wide and 2 3/4 thick. I can get up on 2ft waves on this so you should be able to too - an epoxy board will have more float too.

Still, I can understand that you want a better board (especially if it is the older style Southpoint
/NSP boards) and a custom is deff the way to go. However, my advice is not to go too long....you wil be able to float well on piddly waves but once you start getting better and onto green waves regularly you'll soon realise that you didn't need that much volume. (Of course, if you are into longboard cruising then ignore what I just said!)

I'm v happy with the 7 8 custom board I have but I'm getting a longboard too - came into a small windfall so what the hell...might as well spend it on something worthwhile instead of putting it in the bank! I opted for a 9ft 2 X 23 X 2 3/4 longboard which will give me plenty float.

Great if you can use a local shaper but make sure they have a good rep first - ask around. Escape surfboards are supposed to be good but I had so many recommendations to go to Black and White that they got my dosh and importantly for me the chap their returns emails and phone calls quickly so you feel as if you are getting a good service. Fluid Juice also have a good rep for their quality and so do Gulfstream but the former never returned emails so that wasn't a good sign for me! The chap at B&W is very prompt at gettng back to you and happy to talk on the phone to advise. Ireland seems to be the place for surfing these days so I imagine you should be able to get good feedback on local shapers.

Good luck.

greypump wrote:Hi - reckon it is your skill level and not the board you have at them moment. You are the same weight and height as I am and I'm no expert at all - still struggling to get out back etc most days - a bit too scary! But, I am riding a custom 7ft 8 which is 22 wide and 2 3/4 thick. I can get up on 2ft waves on this so you should be able to too - an epoxy board will have more float too.

Still, I can understand that you want a better board (especially if it is the older style Southpoint
/NSP boards) and a custom is deff the way to go. However, my advice is not to go too long....you wil be able to float well on piddly waves but once you start getting better and onto green waves regularly you'll soon realise that you didn't need that much volume. (Of course, if you are into longboard cruising then ignore what I just said!)

I'm v happy with the 7 8 custom board I have but I'm getting a longboard too - came into a small windfall so what the hell...might as well spend it on something worthwhile instead of putting it in the bank! I opted for a 9ft 2 X 23 X 2 3/4 longboard which will give me plenty float.

Great if you can use a local shaper but make sure they have a good rep first - ask around. Escape surfboards are supposed to be good but I had so many recommendations to go to Black and White that they got my dosh and importantly for me the chap their returns emails and phone calls quickly so you feel as if you are getting a good service. Fluid Juice also have a good rep for their quality and so do Gulfstream but the former never returned emails so that wasn't a good sign for me! The chap at B&W is very prompt at gettng back to you and happy to talk on the phone to advise. Ireland seems to be the place for surfing these days so I imagine you should be able to get good feedback on local shapers.

Good luck.

Thanks pump,

My 195lbs must consist of more bone and fat, and less muscle, than your 195lbs then

Seriously, I am paddling like a b*****d, and the board isn't even catching, even if I were to stay lying down. Waves were a bit poor lately, and only catchable (for me) a second or two before closing out, so conditions lately might have something to do with it.

I think if I had back then the experience/fitness I have now, I woulda been away on the better waves I was trying 6 weeks ago, so maybe current conditions have a lot to do with it. Back then the board was catching ok, just my popup was p**s poor.

Still, a bigger board will work better in a broader range of conditions.

Thanks for your tips, and on the Black and White website now, the "Beach Break" longboard looks like the right style for me.

HI, in response to your question about the Robert August board. I use the 9'.6'', 2+1 on small days (anything below 3 feet), I've been surfing for two years, I'm 6 foot and 84kgs and of limited skill, also not particularly fit. The board has loads of float but can be a bit of barge to turn (this may be due to my limited ability or fin set up). In its favour when the conditions are clean it cruises really well and is quite stable, I don't have any problems paddling it either. Something I would consider is how far you have to carry the thing, I can just about get my arm around it and I have to carry it quite a way at my regular break. I also own and Escape 9'.2'', 2+1 Progressive Mal, I prefer this board in every way, it has enough float for me and turns a lot easier than the bigger board. It's also much lighter and easier to carry. It's not as good for cruising (though it will) but I can handle bigger waves and just feel more comfortable on it. The only down side to this board is that it is a bit fragile and dings very easily. It can be a bit like a kite on windy days because of the light weight. I hope this helps a little, I'm sure that someone with more knowledge and experience can help you decide which way to go but seeing as I use the boards you were considering I thought it may help a bit. Good luck!

That 8'6" should be catching 1-3' waves easy. My advice would be (unless you just want a new board, or want a noserider) put your weight as forward possible w/o going over. Then use your weight to lean it forward, and your back to counter that (arch your back). Catching tiny waves is a lot of work sometimes (more physical in actual movement/shifting weight). But honestly almost (minus flawwed rails, bottom contour) 8' and up board should be cathing 3' waves just fine. (if the 8'6" is at least 2"s thick - it's your technique for sure...).

That all said ---- a wave CATCHER... that 9'6" August could be amazing. Also depending on your local shaper's (the one with the many weeks wait time) experience is; I'd almost alway recommend going with them. Locals know your waves better most of the time. Get feedback from other local surfers. Are cheaper. No shipping. If something goes wrong with the construction aspect of the board, they are there to make it right. You can develop a relationship with this person over time. Maybe watch the process, and learn a lot from doing so. And overall you are supporting your local surf scene in a VERY healthy way!

My advice is mess about with your current board while you wait for the local guy to shape you something similar to the August or whatever else you pick out. Meet with him/her, go over everything from your weight , surfing style, experience, favorite break - be honest about it all. Then see what happens; it's better than having a big name board shipped out to you only to not really dig it.

Found this regarding the Bill Atlee boards:

The Nose Rider. Ridden from 9’0" and up. Versatile longboard for surfers who want to surf in a classic style but still be able to put down some hard turns. With a single concave nose it is perfect for walking and nose riding. Choose the board length to suit your weight. 9’01" For surfers weighing up to 13 stone and a 9’6" model for surfers up to 16 stone as a rough guide. Any weights can be catered for. These boards are great for the serious longboarder but also can help anyone who is slower to there feet or can’t seem to catch the waves in time. Anything from the smallest days to real punch and from learner to seasoned surfers.



The Classic. Ridden from 9’0" and up. Heavy built with a flat rocker and full shape. Made for glide and style a real classic. Triple stringer and wood block nose and tail give this board a look of soul surfing. Watch Endless Summer or Big Wednesday and then go find your nearest point. Cruise down the line to your hearts content. Looks great with or without a spray. Triple stringers and wood blocks will cost more. See custom examples for price guide.

Source: http://www.escapesurfboards.com/design_styles

There's also the one above these two called the "progressive... something or other" That's the one that looks most interesting to me, assuming it has more rocker, and different rails than the nose rider.

Also if you plan is to be riding 3' waves on this thing - I wouldn't worry too much about the nose mass, more is actually better for smaller waves.

STILL I'd go for the local guy.

Dang - I've just logged on for the first time in a few weeks (seems like) and didn't know u guys had posted!
Sorry, ppl !!
I thought I would get an email if a reply came. Have now learned how to subscribe to fav threads/discussions so I WILL get an email if someone posts.

Hi Mungo, thanks for sharing your experiences.

mungo100a wrote:HI, in response to your question about the Robert August board. I use the 9'.6'', 2+1 on small days (anything below 3 feet), I've been surfing for two years, I'm 6 foot and 84kgs and of limited skill, also not particularly fit. The board has loads of float but can be a bit of barge to turn (this may be due to my limited ability or fin set up). In its favour when the conditions are clean it cruises really well and is quite stable, I don't have any problems paddling it either.

You riding the "What I Ride" I take it? Well, there's been quite a bit below 3feet in my area over the past coupla mths so good to hear it catches these tiddlers consistently. I'm a bit heavier than u (by 10kg or so) so I might find it easier to turn, as weight will help with drop-knee turns i'd imagine. Just one question - what does cruising mean? It sounds like it has a very specific surfing meaning.

mungo100a wrote:Something I would consider is how far you have to carry the thing, I can just about get my arm around it and I have to carry it quite a way at my regular break.

Not a big worry. I'm more concerned about the extra difficulty that volume will create when getting out thru' the white water to the back! I'm sure the increased wave count will make up for it..

mungo100a wrote:I also own and Escape 9'.2'', 2+1 Progressive Mal, I prefer this board in every way, it has enough float for me and turns a lot easier than the bigger board. It's also much lighter and easier to carry. It's not as good for cruising (though it will) but I can handle bigger waves and just feel more comfortable on it. The only down side to this board is that it is a bit fragile and dings very easily. It can be a bit like a kite on windy days because of the light weight.

I will be hanging on to my 8'6" for bigger days. Though I doubt its as slick as your Escape. I take it that its a fibreglass board?

mungo100a wrote:I hope this helps a little, I'm sure that someone with more knowledge and experience can help you decide which way to go but seeing as I use the boards you were considering I thought it may help a bit. Good luck!

No mate, its helped at lot. Cheers for your generosity.

coldhands wrote:That 8'6" should be catching 1-3' waves easy. My advice would be (unless you just want a new board, or want a noserider) put your weight as forward possible w/o going over. Then use your weight to lean it forward, and your back to counter that (arch your back). Catching tiny waves is a lot of work sometimes (more physical in actual movement/shifting weight). But honestly almost (minus flawwed rails, bottom contour) 8' and up board should be cathing 3' waves just fine. (if the 8'6" is at least 2"s thick - it's your technique for sure...).

I've noticed that a small unbroken wave close to shore seems to be easier to catch than one the "same" height out back (I use the term "same" advisedly as the one out back will actually grow to be a bigger wave by the time it gets in, and will even have broken way before where I'm catching the first type of wave ). I guess the ones that are small when caught closer to shore were miniscule out back and didn't even show up on the radar. Anyway they seem to be steeper, for the same height, than the ones at the back. Its the ones out the back that I'm struggling to catch, that have a gentle gradient. Does this make sense?

That said, there's probably something in what u say. I got caught too many times taking off too late just before a wave reared up behind me and flipped the back up and the nose down into a pearl, so maybe I've been putting myself a bit far back to try and avoid pearling. Which is daft of course because I can see now it was my timing of where and when I was catching the wave that was causing the pearling, not my position.

Basically as I've paddled into a wave I've been putting myself at the same place where I reckon my optimum position for paddling out/around is. Is that right, or could I afford to move forward an inch or two from there when going for a wave?

I've caught one or two that I otherwise would have missed by "humping" the board (best way to describe it! throwing torso up and head/shoulders down, repeatedly) which I saw on the 110% DVD (though not referred to by the same nomenclature!) and a woman doing on her longboard the other day. So maybe I could afford to go a bit further fwd.

coldhands wrote:That all said ---- a wave CATCHER... that 9'6" August could be amazing. Also depending on your local shaper's (the one with the many weeks wait time) experience is; I'd almost alway recommend going with them. Locals know your waves better most of the time. Get feedback from other local surfers. Are cheaper. No shipping. If something goes wrong with the construction aspect of the board, they are there to make it right. You can develop a relationship with this person over time. Maybe watch the process, and learn a lot from doing so. And overall you are supporting your local surf scene in a VERY healthy way!

I'd normally be keen on supporting local micro industry and follow your argument. However this guy doesn't like to meet customers taking orders via his local shop (nothing wrong with that, his own business), also seems to be completely inundated and stressed out (poor guy, I run my own biz too and can commiserate - and sure its no bad thing in the grand scheme of things to be so busy!) and I heard he doesn't have any blanks over 9'2" that he'd need to make me a 9'6" or even 10' (as theres an argument that I should go for 10" fibre to be the equivalent of a 9'6" epoxy). Plus space is limited in my storeroom what with kids bikes, lawnmowers, gardening equipment rubbing up against the boards, so tougher is better.

coldhands wrote:My advice is mess about with your current board while you wait for the local guy to shape you something similar to the August or whatever else you pick out. Meet with him/her, go over everything from your weight , surfing style, experience, favorite break - be honest about it all. Then see what happens; it's better than having a big name board shipped out to you only to not really dig it.

I'll try the shaper experience next time - hopefully will be ready for another board (fish or hybrid) sometime in the next year. In the meantime been getting 3 or 4 hours once or twice a week and seeing progression even on the 8'6. Its slow as theres only a handful of unbroken waves I'm catching every session, but ....baby steps.....

Thanks mate for taking the time to help me

Hi Mate, It's Mick here....I've been surfing for only about 2 1/2 yrs now but am totally stoked!!! My mate who lives at Watergate Bay got me into it. I am almost 40 now !!But reckon that rather than look for a wavecatcher that you improve your surf fitness....I know what your thinking but it is a definite must if you want to catch waves.....I train at least 5 hours per week on my board in the water....and yes it may look really stupid from a passer by stand point....guy on board with no waves in a bay !!! but by practicing paddling all the time you will find that you are able to get the board in trim all the time and also position yourself correctly on the wave ready for take off on that brilliant day!!!!!Check out the surfing tips on this site....very useful...once you think you fitness is good dont stop practicing!!! Then.....Wavecatcher...if you fancy a longboard or a mal then write back and I will put you in touch with my shaper who made a custom one off longboard for me (9.1) which cost me £350 including my own style of graphics etc....!!! See ya some time out there!!!!! Cheers....Mick.

Hey man i am from belfast too and surf at the north coast as much as possible. I too have an 8'6 but with a slightly thinner nose making it more like a big mini-mal style rather than a log. I agree about the conditions recently being on the whole small 3ft and under stuff which is perfect for the stage i am at of beginning to ride across more regularly and catch some proper waves.

I have to say that my 8'6 is working like a dream in these conditions especially at whiterocks and east but i would say try to get there on the push from mid-high tide as both get smaller and more difficult from mid-low

Oh and i am 6'5 and 15 stone so no excuses there!!

My advice, (though i barely feel qualified to give it) would be to get over the nose when paddling and forget about dropping in, in those conditions to catch waves earlier you have to work a bit harder paddling and i find its easier to be well into the wave before popping up.