Been surfing for only about a year and a half now. I have a JP Fatboy at 6,11" which i NEVER surf (because it sinks when i stand on it) and a Custard Point 9,1" which I adore. BUT..............I seem to sometimes struggle to catch waves as easily as some of my peers of a similar age (35) and a similar size (14 stone). I can paddle pretty well and am reasonably fit but really struggle to take off especially if i try to angle into the wave. I often find myself having to take off straight toward the beach which makes the bottom turn really late and I'm struggling to find enough speed to get down the line before the closeout.
So.....my board is quite badly yellowed pretty much all over and although it's quoted as 2 7/8's thick on the bottom, it's a noserider and looks pretty thin on both the nose and the tail. Hopefully I've attached a photo so you can see
The question then is this:
a) is the board knackered/too damn old?
b) am I knackered/too damn old?
For info, I'm surfing south wales (UK - Porthcawl) usually so the waves are generally a little weak when they are clean.
Any opinions much appreciated & thanks in advance,
Milo
