longboarding in big surf

[sal]

I go further North when i can get out....but could be persuaded to make a trip south!

[Concrete Boots]

I've not surfed at Whitesands since I was a lad but I'm really looking forward to it. What's it like today?

[Concrete Boots]

Sal, the more surfers the merrier! We'll be there on the 13th and 14th. I've got some mates coming down from Mid Wales with their dog, a flask of cocoa and a camera to watch us freeze half to death!

[Bewilderbeast]

I've got some mates coming down from Mid Wales with their dog, a flask of cocoa and a camera to watch us freeze half to death!

Aww, c'mon! It's not that cold out there yet!

[Concrete Boots]

Ah but I would much rather be surfing in Australia again, in the dead of winter the water is still 16 degrees C.

So when were you last in the drink?

[Bewilderbeast]

Two weeks ago. Hiding from the wind at Puts. Not to cold really but I did get my first ice cream headache of the winter on my first duckdive... ...nice.

It was definitely alot warmer in the water than it was out of it!

[sal]

Sal, the more surfers the merrier! We'll be there on the 13th and 14th. I've got some mates coming down from Mid Wales with their dog, a flask of cocoa and a camera to watch us freeze half to death!

quality well i'll try and make it down then! can you pm me any details as/when you sort them out?! cheers!

[Concrete Boots]

Good work our kid. I've sent you a message. I'm so bored sat in this office! So back to the longboard chat, Anyone seen Big Wednesday and have any tips for doing that walking up and down the board thingy... you'll understand that I hate technical language ...

[dave610]

watch Wingnut surf the long board in the movie the endless summer 2.. and ull never ask the question about longboarding in big waves again.. he gave blokes like kelly and tom curran a big surprise

[dougirwin13]

I love this "you can't longboard in big waves" thing.

It's hilarious! Do these people think the pre-70s guys just sat out when it was big? hehe!

Try watching the original Big Wednesday.

Or how about the fact that a gun IS a longboard in terms of length and volume.

Gotta love the attitude

How about Bonga Perkins in triple overhead pipe? Or Rusty Kealana in 2x-3x OH Makaha? Or...

(the endless list goes on)



-doug

[4theLoveofTHeWipeOut]

Its common sense that a big board is going to get picked up by the wave a lot earlier meaning u can take the high line on take off and set yourself, making the drop a lot easier whereas on a shortboard its more about a short burst of paddling energy and being aggressive on the pop up and drop, Watch any big wave surfing movie and even today they still riding 11- 13ft boards at mavs and waimea, I want too learn shortboarding but I think its doesnt matter what u ride its all about having the balls too put yourself out there and stay calm in heavy situations, only because u love it not because your trying to prove something. If u truly repsect the ocean you can learn to ride big waves, But be aware when things go wrong it tends too happen very fast and u gotta be ready to get urself outta there so swimming and breathholding strength should not be taken lightly in big surf (I found this out the hard way with several near drownings). Set your limits but always push urself that little bit extra every surf even if u dont paddle into 6-8ft waves paddle out into the lineup and get used to the feeling of being in bigger waves and just relax yourself thats what I did and it helped a lot.
Jus my 2 cents.
Peace OUt.

[waytogofranko]

longboarders have already expanded, before the introduction of shorter boards longboards were used at waimea and theres even some footage in endless summer or some movie i dont remember charging pipeline on some huge thick ass board

also there are always longboarders in the line up where ever you go

[Surfing-Innovation]

I've only ever surfed my (9'3") longboard and my (6'10") Magic Carpet - and I'll ride either in pretty much anything.......

I've ridden overhead on both - admittedly it can be well sketchy on the log, but I normally tend to get up REALLY quick and then jump on the tail and sort of wheelie down the face to avoid pearling. The speed generated is great though.........

The Carpet is really only fun in clean waves, as it tends to bounce all over in choppy stuff. Neither of them are easy to get through the surf on, but that's more down to my lack of fitness than anything.....

[Hang11]

I've ridden maybe 2 * overhead a few times on a longboard, scared the crap out of me

1.5 * is good fun. I love dropping in, and being able to get loads of rail in the face, and then to just power out of a bottom turn, and standing at the back of the board, in the pocket, holding a nice line in solid waves, always makes me feel all '60's and stylish. Probably look like a complete kook though.

[keef]

according to the designer of my board it's good for small waves to double overhead.

Head height is the biggest stuff I've surfed on it, and it's easier than on a shorter board.

Can't wait for the winter swell to kick in........................................

[Roy Stewart]

Well I'm building a 13 footer for second reef pipeline, it also works well at Mount Maunganui.

.

[keef]

Surfed way overhead for the first time today, maybe even double.
I can't recommend my Herbie Fletcher thriller enough, it is sooo much better than me, really good board.

[isaluteyou]

mucho respect to the guys n gals that charge big waves on logs - i consider it really sketchy but then i suck at longboarding

[Otter]

It depends on the conditions. Sometimes when the waves are large, it's almost impossible to get take off speed to catch it unless you drop in. If it's a tall, steep wave, you may have to catch it at just the critical point to ride. If the wave is large, but mushy, it's usually much easier to catch.

[isaluteyou]

still rather be dropping in on my 6'8 rather than a 9fter in big stuff