Newbie longboarder

[Oldguy18]

Well after a couple years stand up surfing I decided to pick up a longboard and learn to surf the old fashioned way at the ripe young age of 42. I was able to get a Dolsey 9' 1" new from my local shop for 500 so not a bad deal. Initially I was going to buy a smaller (less volume) board but on the advice of the shop owner I got this one due to the increased volume and flotation as he said it would give me an edge while learning. I got the "big boy" model at 24" wide x 4" thick. Really from the side this looks like an SUP board, its fat. I am not a huge guy at 5'10 and 190 pounds so this thing floats me like a cork. I think the Literage is in the 80 plus range but don't quote me on that, it could be more but I really am not sure. Anyway since I am basically teaching myself, my question was when trying to trim /position myself front to back on the board to achieve the best glide and not sink the nose or tail, I am not sure how far forward or far back on the board I should really be laying. Traditionally everyone says lay where the nose of the board is 1 to 2 inches out of the water when paddling however with the flotation and rocker of this board that is not really practical unless I lay what "seems" like really far forward, remember I am new at this. I marked the center of my board front to back ( the half way point of 9" 1") and if I lay with my sternum/solar plexus area right there on that mark which is where I see others lay, I feel like I am way too far back. I am told or "have heard" that when popping up' the back edge of your hands should be right about on that center point, but it seems if my hands are landing there that I am laying a lot further back than I feel i should be. Conversely, in order to get the nose to not ride four or five inches out of the water when paddling, I have to scoot forward a little bit which means when I put my hands next to my chest/armpit area to press up they are several inches forward of the center mark of the board and the center is now somewhere near my belly button...Maybe not quite that far forward but you get the idea. So having said all that I guess my question is, is that a hard-and-fast rule to have your hands on the middle point of the board when doing your pop up and is it absolutely necessary to NOT have the nose more than a couple of inches out of the water when paddling or is just a general rule of thumb that has some leeway. It's a really difficult to tell how much the nose is actually riding out the water without having someone watch you, so I am just doing my best to judge when I am laying and paddling. Sorry, I realize that was a mouthful just trying to be as detailed as possible. Thanks

[waikikikichan]

Well after a couple years stand up surfing I decided to pick up a longboard

1) What size, type, make/model of board were you riding those previous years ?
2) How did you know where to be on that board ?
3) How was your paddling ability / strength back then ?

[dtc]

If the nose is out of the water, that means the tail of the board is under the water. Which means drag = harder to paddle = slower paddling (=harder to catch waves).

According to the dolsey website, your board is 79L. That’s big but it’s not hugely different to most boards (eg the 9ft Torq longboard is 72L). So the usual rules apply in terms of body placement etc

Not sure where you read about having hands at the centre of the board. I’ve never heard that before. Every board is different and has a different point of balance (eg big nose means you scoot forward of centre more than on a pointy nose), so forget that centre line measure.

Often people say your head should be about where the shapers logo is, but that’s obviously not a standard rule and logos can be all over the place.

And, yes - the ideal paddling position seems too far forward. I often warn learners that it seems too far forward, that it looks like you setting yourself up for a nose dive etc. but you aren’t - just take it on trust and try it out a few times (note: if you are surfing white water then you probably need to be slightly further back but that is because you aren’t paddling for the wave).

How do you check the nose - just peer around and have a look! It’s not an exact science.

[Oldguy18]

Well after a couple years stand up surfing I decided to pick up a longboard

1) What size, type, make/model of board were you riding those previous years ?
2) How did you know where to be on that board ?
3) How was your paddling ability / strength back then ?

I was riding a stand up board....11 ft starboard not a traditional surfboard.

[Oldguy18]

If the nose is out of the water, that means the tail of the board is under the water. Which means drag = harder to paddle = slower paddling (=harder to catch waves).

According to the dolsey website, your board is 79L. That’s big but it’s not hugely different to most boards (eg the 9ft Torq longboard is 72L). So the usual rules apply in terms of body placement etc

Not sure where you read about having hands at the centre of the board. I’ve never heard that before. Every board is different and has a different point of balance (eg big nose means you scoot forward of centre more than on a pointy nose), so forget that centre line measure.

Often people say your head should be about where the shapers logo is, but that’s obviously not a standard rule and logos can be all over the place.

And, yes - the ideal paddling position seems too far forward. I often warn learners that it seems too far forward, that it looks like you setting yourself up for a nose dive etc. but you aren’t - just take it on trust and try it out a few times (note: if you are surfing white water then you probably need to be slightly further back but that is because you aren’t paddling for the wave).

How do you check the nose - just peer around and have a look! It’s not an exact science.

What you are saying makes sense. The centerline thing is from some tutorial I read somewhere and from watching others paddle, but for all i know they may have been shorter/taller than me and paddling a longer board so I will toss that idea, not going to work, my nose would be at least 4 or 5 inches out of the water. I had been using a piece of tape to mark my position to line up with at eye level and it sounds like I already have it in the right spot, it just "seemed" far forward, but again I have no frame of reference so I think I'm on the right track. I just need to get out and paddle into a couple of waves and tweak as necessary. Thanks for the info!

[waikikikichan]

Thanks for clearing up that you were a Stand Up Paddle surfer. Stand Up surfer was difficult to figure out. ( as opposed to lie down surfer ? ).

I always get asked by newbie/beginner about positioning. First thing I do is rip of their tape mark or flick off the wax ball they have by their face. The wave, the wind, the current, the tide and your stamina and dexterity is constantly changing. Please do not adhere to rigid dance steps taped to the floor. FEEL where you need to be. Looking down to check your marks will create a bad habit.
There’s a joke we said at the bike shop to new workers asking “ How much pressure to put in the tire ? “ We would reply “ pump it up to the tube explodes then back off 2 psi. “. My advice would follow the same line ( but not a joke ). Move up bit by bit until the nose pearls, then move back an inch ( or two ). Pearling is good, it means you caught the wave. Being too far back and having the wave constantly pass under you is just a waste.

[RobSF]

Dude,

Take all the time you’d be typing on this forum . . . and instead get in the water. Move around until you’re able to get up on the board. Move up, move back. Get the feel. Stop taking measurements. I’m actually not being flippant. There’s so much that’s solvable by trial and error rather than conversation on land. Let alone on line. The one other thing I’d say is that if you’re still frustrated, say, a couple months from now - depending on how much you’re getting out - try a different board, see how that works.

Analysis, I’ve decided - except for the most general principles - is close to useless when it comes to surfing. The most progress comes from the most surfing.

Peace.

[Oldguy18]

I'm with ya, just waiting for some waves big enough to paddle into to roll in. Missed the tropical storm last week due to being sick and its flat-ish at the moment. Board is waxed and ready to go. Thank God I have my stand up board for the really small days on the gulf or I would never get out....we don't get consistant surf in NW Florida.

[billie_morini]

Well after a couple years stand up surfing I decided to pick up a longboard

I was riding a stand up board....11 ft starboard not a traditional surfboard.

Thank you, Oldguy, for stopping such nonsense! You've come to your senses, Brah.

[saltydog]

Thanks for clearing up that you were a Stand Up Paddle surfer. Stand Up surfer was difficult to figure out. ( as opposed to lie down surfer ? ).

I always get asked by newbie/beginner about positioning. First thing I do is rip of their tape mark or flick off the wax ball they have by their face. The wave, the wind, the current, the tide and your stamina and dexterity is constantly changing. Please do not adhere to rigid dance steps taped to the floor. FEEL where you need to be. Looking down to check your marks will create a bad habit.
There’s a joke we said at the bike shop to new workers asking “ How much pressure to put in the tire ? “ We would reply “ pump it up to the tube explodes then back off 2 psi. “. My advice would follow the same line ( but not a joke ). Move up bit by bit until the nose pearls, then move back an inch ( or two ). Pearling is good, it means you caught the wave. Being too far back and having the wave constantly pass under you is just a waste.

This is spot on. Well, wkkkchan is always spot on... Ive done the measuring of the board. I've had trouble judging the position based on the 1-2" suggestion when the board I was riding was a wave storm which is super thick and flat. The above is what really helped me, and I still go by that when I switch to a different board.

[tomthetreeman]

You will also learn that board positioning can change with the waves you are surfing. In smaller surf, I cheat forward on the board and arch my back more than normal as I get into the wave... When the waves get steeper I go back to my more traditional position on the board. Your ability to do this will be affected by nose and tail rocker, you just have to screw it up a few times (like wkk said) to figure it out. And just when you figure it out, you’ll surf a different break, and you’ll need to adjust!

Tom

[Big H]

You will also learn that board positioning can change with the waves you are surfing. In smaller surf, I cheat forward on the board and arch my back more than normal as I get into the wave... When the waves get steeper I go back to my more traditional position on the board. Your ability to do this will be affected by nose and tail rocker, you just have to screw it up a few times (like wkk said) to figure it out. And just when you figure it out, you’ll surf a different break, and you’ll need to adjust!

Tom

The more you improve the more this will make sense to you. It isn't just the waves or even the changing tide levels in a given session and resulting change in the wave shapes. It has to do with where you are.....maybe you're a bit too far outside and just barely make it in after a furious paddle.....you'll position different for that than if you were nearly caught inside and were going for a steep, late drop. Given the crowded nature of lineups and how a lot of times you need to jockey, feint and race to get barely in position to make a wave, it's necessary if you want to catch a lot of waves to practice catching waves out of position even if you're on a relatively uncrowded break as it won't always be that way. In learning to do that you'll learn where to put your body dependent on where you are in relation to the wave you want to catch......and after doing that a few hundred times you'll learn to recognise the "feeling" of where you want to be on the board in a given situation.

Practice and time in the water.

[Oldguy18]

Thank you, Oldguy, for stopping such nonsense! You've come to your senses, Brah.[/quote][/quote]


Oh I still SUP Surf. Too many missed opportunities to get out on the water if I quite Peace bro

[Oldguy18]

Great advice on all points. Much appreciated guys Wish we would get some surf. Its been flat and nasty with an unhealthy amount of red tide..

[Oldguy18]

Thank you, Oldguy, for stopping such nonsense! You've come to your senses, Brah.

[/quote]


Oh I still SUP Surf. Too many missed opportunities to get out on the water if I quite Peace bro[/quote]