Surfing Waves

so usually I have no problem with dropping down the face of the wave, or doing a bottom turn, but how come when the waves get really hollow, my board always wants to shoot down before my body does when I'm paddling into the wave?

Hollow waves are faster than mushy ones, so you need to pop up quicker. If your board is moving down the wave then you caught it.

timing is cruicial as well as positioning in hollow waves. Mushy waves are much more forgiving.

paddle in early. paddle in hard. get up quick. be prepared to take a few poundings.

Take the late drop, tuck in and look forwards. See yourself coming out and you might just make it.

I have never had a full cover up, probs a half second fluke. But the above is the advice passed on to me.

You really need to anticipate things...be ready...and get up real quick!

You have to paddle really hard ahead of time and time the wave - get up enough speed and make sure you're squared over the top of your board and almost throw yourself over the ledge. I know it sounds weird, but if you watch vids and watch some of the pros at Chopes or Pipe, you'll see what I mean.

It's also how you position your body.

Take a skateboard down a nice, slow hill. Then go down a vertical.

Which is going to go faster? Also - on the vertical your natural body tendency is to lean back, putting your center of gravity and weight on the tail, shooting it forward and out from under you.

You need to consciously lean *into* the fall.

I always hate doing that for first split second.

You have to commit fully to the drop. Sounds like you are leaning back in an attempt to make the drop seem less steep. You have to fully throw yourself into the Wave, and lean forward even more when the Waves get steep.

try to angle down it?
get ready to pick up alot of speed fast.

when i surf hollow waves when pop up i keep hold of one rail and stay crouched and pull my board across and lean

I have never tried that, i just might have to!