Surfing Waves

Posted: **Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:37 am**

Well my birthday is coming up and I really love to surf and I wanted a board for my birthday. The problem is I live 8 hours away from Tofino where I like to surf Cocks Bay so I only go around 5 times a year but I get in around 12 hours of surfing a day usually going for the weekend. I have gone about 15 times now working my way to a smaller and smaller longboard. The one I used this weekend was a 7'6 softop and I managed to catch some 8 foot waves with it by padeling from one beach to another about 1 kilometer away(Insane Scary-with currents) and it was amazing I got into the green/pipe of the wave and now I want a small board so I can duck dive into the wave in order to get into the big ones. The waves in Tofino break a far way out so its impossible to paddle into where the waves break with a longboard so I need to buy a shortboard. What types would be suitable for me with my type of experience? Pleese tell me your opinion on the best board for me.

Posted: **Tue Jul 25, 2006 1:41 am**

I am also 6'1 130 pounds. Yea my wetsuit is a Xtra small tall.

Posted: **Tue Jul 25, 2006 11:20 am**

The waves in Tofino break a far way out so its impossible to paddle into where the waves break with a longboard so I need to buy a shortboard

What

?

Its easier to catch waves with a long board, but I'm sure I miss understood what you meant. Would you explain please?

Posted: **Tue Jul 25, 2006 7:44 pm**

Its easier to catch waves with a long board, but I'm sure I miss understood what you meant. Would you explain please?

I meant it is impossible to paddle with a longboard past the white water in order to get to the 8 foot swells where the waves begin to break.

Posted: **Tue Jul 25, 2006 9:12 pm**

Actually, since Longboards have the advantage of paddling a lot faster, you should be able to paddle out quick enough over the waves that are coming towards you.

Posted: **Tue Jul 25, 2006 10:50 pm**

On a longboard getting out back can be a bit harder on bigger days. Especially if it's messy. But I mostly manage it.

-doug

Posted: **Tue Jul 25, 2006 11:03 pm**

Well the waves were about 8-9 feet and I was turtleing and I still could not get past. I came very very close a few times(When the waves where not white but rolling) and would have made it if I could have ducked dived but a 7'6 softop could not and I got washed back to shore. I dont think it is possible for me to duck dive a 7'6 being 6'1 and only weighing 130 pounds. I was thinking of mabe buying a 6'6-6'10 fish? Good or bad idea for a guy who only get about 3 sessions in a year. Has anyone here made it passed the white water to 8-9 foot waves because I came close but at a certain point you can almost tell u need to duckdive and turtleing wont work.

Posted: **Wed Jul 26, 2006 1:31 pm**

7'6" is not a longboard.

Something 9'+ will paddle a lot faster for you (especially on clean days).

Only going out 3 sessions a year! Try renting...

Posted: **Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:41 pm**

ok, youve say youve been surfing 15 times, and you where paddling out in 8-9ft surf? hmm. i think i know why you couldnt get out.

Posted: **Wed Jul 26, 2006 8:59 pm**

7'6" is not a longboard.

Something 9'+ will paddle a lot faster for you (especially on clean days).

Only going out 3 sessions a year! Try renting...

I have been renting and I figured out if I would have bought a board right away it would be the cost of renting. Why not buy a board now to save money for the future since I may be moving closer to the area and I love surfing. I want to try Shortboarding and Im looking for a good board to start on Im 130 pounds 6'1 feet tall pleese help?

ok, youve say youve been surfing 15 times, and you where paddling out in 8-9ft surf? hmm. i think i know why you couldnt get out.

Well actually I did get out because I paddled over a mile with my friend in currents from a beach with 2-3 footers and we made it to the swells at the beach with 8 footers. Everyone out there was imprssed. Im just looking for a good short board to start on that I can duck dive I know I have the strength to get out in 8-9 foot surf. Any ideas on what board I should get?

Posted: **Wed Jul 26, 2006 9:44 pm**

I wouldn't start on a shortboard, you will get into bad surfing habits and will be making learning a lot harder. Dont try going for 8 foot waves, you gotta walk before you can run. You should get a longboard and practice in smaller surf - you will become a much better surfing and it would be faster to progress on

Posted: **Thu Jul 27, 2006 3:14 am**

for some reason, I dont believe you story :roll:

Posted: **Thu Jul 27, 2006 7:10 am**

for some reason, I dont believe you story

I dont care my friend and I did it scariest paddle of my life and sacriest wave of my life. I was praying and stuff too :lol:

anyways yea I did it and I dont know what to do now or what kinda board i should get :cry:

Posted: **Thu Jul 27, 2006 8:52 am**

Any ideas on what board I should get?

Yep, a beginners board

.
As already said above, the reason you can't/have trouble getting out back is due to poor technique rather than wrong board. So you need to get a board to match your ability not a board to match the conditions - conditions change a hell of a lot faster and more often than ability

.

Posted: **Thu Jul 27, 2006 9:00 am**

after 15 attempts at surfing, your getting barreled and surfing 8 foot steep, hollow, fast waves?

unless your some sort of god, i just cant see it...especially on a soft top...

Posted: **Thu Jul 27, 2006 12:06 pm**

I gotta agree with Brian here, the story does seem hard to believe.

You have surfed 15 times
In them 15 times it was 12hrs of surf A DAY (15*12=180 surfing hours)
Paddled a mile
Surfed 8-9 foot waves on a 7'6 softboard

I think you are trying too hard. Surfing aint easy and you shouldn't be trying to skip all the begginers stages to get onto shortboards in 9 foot waves. It just wont turn out right.