Surfing Waves

Ok, so even us "experts" need help.

I have a 6'1 shortboard x 2 3/8 x 19 1/2 epoxy shorty, about 33L. I injured my knee a few years back and stopped using it. Lately I have been surfing more so my form got better. I broke it out in head high surf and had a blast in it. Then my buddy had a fuller volume 34Lt 5'10 x 20 x 2 1/2 and I dug that one too.

So, question: do I go smaller again? I'm catching waves, so on the one side why mess with a new board if I am happy, but could I go smaller but more disc like? Haven't thought of buying a new type of board for a while, but then again, I own too many boards already LOL

I remember you (I think it was you) used to complain about some of your short wide fat boards being way too skatey, like trying to surf standing on a block of soap (I think that was your phrase - along with 'bambi on roller skates').

A lot of the better surfers (ie not me, actual good surfers) that I know around my (middle) age have definitely migrated from their 'standard' 6'2 x 19 x 2 3/8 inch boards to the hypto krypto style boards but going shorter - so now they are surfing 5'10 x 20 1/2 x 2 5/8 or so (basically much like your friend's board, but maybe with even a little bit more foam). They all claim that its given them a new lease on surfing life.

So, for what its worth given that my short board is 6'10 (ie this is all hearsay), the slightly shorter slightly wider (but not grovellor short or wide) board seems like something worth exploring. Given the success of the HK, almost everyone has a version.

(oh, and if you were after some support in your decision to buy yet another board - I offer whole hearted support to your decision. Seems like an absolutely necessary decision. YOLO!)

I sort of understand why most people want a short board (unrealistic expectations) but with you definitely not. So what might such a board do for you? If it's just that you aren't sure about that answer then why not get another board? Is there something surfers are doing with those type of boards that you want to be able to do? I guess I am lucky having had a lot of surfing under my belt already I have no expectations of even getting back to where I was before so I am happy to stick to my easy versatile board and learn how to use it better.

oldmansurfer wrote:I sort of understand why most people want a short board (unrealistic expectations) but with you definitely not. So what might such a board do for you? If it's just that you aren't sure about that answer then why not get another board? Is there something surfers are doing with those type of boards that you want to be able to do? I guess I am lucky having had a lot of surfing under my belt already I have no expectations of even getting back to where I was before so I am happy to stick to my easy versatile board and learn how to use it better.

Honestly, the 5'10 was snappier than my 6'1 and easier to duckdive, but I did feel more comfortable in my 6'1 in the flatter portion of the waves and it held a little higher on the wall. After reading and thinking about it I might just stick to bigger, I am 55 after all...besides, Santa says I need a new wetsuit.

update: didn't buy, but started using quad on my shorty, it was way easier to get into waves, especially since they aren't barreling right now., Fun to experiment

I think the Rocket Wide and Seaside are both boards that are still performance oriented, even though they're wide like a fish.

They both have much more narrow. pulled-in tails than most of the other boards in the fish/groveler category and I think it makes them a lot more maneuverable in the pocket. I have the CI Rocket Wide and it works great in 3'+ (or punchy parts of the wave) but it looses it quick in anything less. It still has enough volume to make it through the flatter sections, but the board just feels either dead or alive based on the shape of the wave, if that makes any sense. I have it in Spine-Tek EPS. Also has a Tri-Quad option.
The Seaside is supposed to be better in smaller/mushier waves but still holds up well in overhead surf. But its Quad only

I'm 6'0" 190lbs (42yrs old) and ride the Rocket Wide at 6'2 x 21 x 2 7/8 (40.7L). It's a really good paddler but most people ride them shorter.

Hi Naeco, a few of my older mates who have had hip replacements some double, they have adopted a quick release waist belt to attach their leash to.
This so a big wipeout won’t extend the new prosthetic joint into damage mode.
I use similar for river surfing because my body on one side of an obstacle and my board on the other severe drowning risk as the water pressure won’t allow release on knee or ankle worn leashes.

Thanks Jaffa, that's great info and something I've been wondering about. It's been hard to find much info about this subject so its greatly appreciated. Do you know if a certain type/brand seems to work better than others?

Coincidentally, I recently had the leash wrap around my knee (looped from thigh to calf) in hurricane surf and it got me even more interested in alternative shortboard leashes. I've never had that happen before.. basically the middle of of the leash got stuck in that notch between ankle cuff and the swivel for the cord. It basically locked my leg in place and would have been really difficult to tread water if I wasn't standing on a shallow sandbar. Even then, it still took an uneasy minute or two to free my leg again. Probably just a freak thing but that type of stuff really compounds other problems in the surf.

I’ll do a little research for you across the RiverSurfing Community in the US and Canada , I could send one from herein Austria but it would add to the cost a fair bit!
Stay tuned and safe, should know later tomorrow!
Googel river surfing USA
Cheers

Thanks Jaffa. Looks like most of the RiverSurfing leashes are coiled like the SUP type, so it kinda limits whats available for ocean surfing. It looks like the Badfish Re-leash might be a good option and seems to get good reviews. It might take a little getting used to, but it's good to hear that it's working out well enough for some of the other surfers with a THR.

Naeco most of the leashes you’ve looked at have carabiner with a pin pull release , for which you need a personal flotation jacket or a belt, i trawled the same sites, obviously a PFD may not be suitable in the surf and the belts need consideration as to where their buckle is sited for paddling. This applies to the belt I use, there is also a pull ball to work with , there have been belt failures in some of the models as they have an extra self release velcro or the buckle clamp,has been not been done up properly. So like oceanic leashes check before go out.
same incidental scratch and nick failure too!



This is from a site in England showing a belt to which you attach your own leash ( Uncoiled type) there might be similars product available near you.



This is the Austrian model which my son is wearing!
I will look some more in adaptive surfing equipment!
Be back shortly

This belt might be worth investigating


I went to the adaptive surfing sites no luck but the hunt is on

Thanks for the lead, Jaffa! I didnt expect there would be so few alternatives to leg leashes. Good point about the carabiner latches.. I guess that wouldn't be very compatible with boardshorts and rashguard

This is the quick release waist belt I use on the river, the buckle with the yellow ball toggle can be rotated to,the side, the leash attached to,the yellow velcro loop through the ring .This can be at the side on the rear opposite to your hip replacement.

The hold is only as good as your velcro and the tightening and fixing of the front buckle.
Should OK under a rash shirt, but could abrade skin , my friend in Indonesia has similar with a neoprene kidney belt under it. Works well in big Indo,surf!

Hope that helps

I like boards 6'2 or under.. 6'2 is my step up, up to double overhead face.. bigger than that and I'm not going out lol..

but 6'2 used to be my shortboard length.. theres this thing called swing weight.. it makes you surf rounder turns, or just delays the boards reactiveness.. i like this feeling in big waves because i'm not the lip smasher when its double overhead, i try to get out on the face where it is fun/safer lol..

but for foot over head waves i like a 5'11 .. they turn better but are thicker, and maybe a little wider.. I like to own 3-4 boards at a time as each do different things that help me to have more fun in different conditions.. i reckon use your 6'1 on good days, and get a 1-4 foot board that is shorter.. only if your budget allows, otherwise get something that suits your local break only.. chchur