Surfing Waves

Hi everyone,
I've been surfing shortboards for the past 10 years in different conditions and waves. I've now enough knowledge to understand more or less what type of surfboard works better in different conditions, that's to say that I got the basics, for example not a flat board for steep barreling waves, etc., but I don't feel that I really know how to choose the right shape overall (volume distribution, nose and tail and other shape characteristics) for a certain type of wave. This ability would come in hand in my case as I will find myself in different countries where there are waves and few people able to give serious advices about boards.
How to learn this? Any tips? Thank you!

There are so many variables in surfing it's often difficult to make sense of it all. I recommend The Surfboard Book or some other book on surfboard design. Ultimately what is best all comes down to the wave, the surfer and the board in that order. Most important is the wave, then the surfer and the board is the least important part of that in my opinion. If you want to understand what design changes do then the above book is pretty decent. There may be other books but I haven't seen them.

I think there are no absolutes with board design. Just things that affect how the board performs but nothing that precludes it's use in certain waves. Perhaps it might take a higher skill level or be more difficult for some surfers to use some boards in some conditions. So for instance you say flat boards aren't good for steep waves and I would say you're wrong because flat boards get down the face quickly and go fast which is needed on steep waves. With the right rail design they will hold a wall high up on a steep wave and go really fast which is very good for riding steep waves. The question is if you can make use of the design? The board doesn't magically make you able to surf waves. You need to learn to use the board beneath your feet in the waves you are surfing. I don't travel but if I did I would just take my best all around board and deal with whatever conditions presented. This is what I do anyway most of the time.

When you think of 3 time world champion Mick Fanning, you think DHD ( Darren Handley Designs ) surfboards. BUT that's only if MicK is not in Hawaii. When in Hawaii, Mick sources his boards from Wade Tokoro. Since Wade makes boards for what works in Hawaiian waves. When in Rome, do as the Romans do.

There's was a all shapes and sizes for different waves Quiver time, ( go-to, step-up, groveler, gun, fish, etc. ) Then the "One board for all waves " period. You haven't even touched on the fact of FINS. That you might to want to learn a bit on. Maybe one board but different sets of fins for different wave conditions.

But what adapts the best is YOU. You need to adjust. A good surfer can ride any board ( and most any wave )
Listen to what the father of modern surfing said:

Ride the Wave, Not the Board

– Duke Kahanamoku

Thanks guys!
I agree, for sure there are many points of view, and I need to adjust, and this thought reduces my urge to know more about designs, but in any case some more technical knowledge is not going to do any harm seeing that I have a few boards in my quiver. It happened to me lately to go out with a pumping swell and strong current, I had just my smallest board that day (5.7) and felt like a little shell under my body. Well, it's always a good experience, always, just is good to be aware that another board (maybe my 6.0, 3 lts more) would have felt very different in that condition.
I'll look for the book (even to know more about fins: again, I know just the basics of how they change the performance), but keeping in mind what you said and without forgetting that time in the ocean is the first commandment.

What brand/model fin do you have on most of your boards ? Fins totally transforms how the board rides and responds in turns.

You probably wouldn't be riding a 5'7" right now if it wasn't for Tom Curren riding his in macking waves 26 years ago. It opened surfer's minds of what could be done on smaller board in bigger waves.

Thanks mate. Interesting that video of Curren.
I've a couple of boards with FCS (now I'm not at home, can't check the model) and other 2 boards with Futures (should be techflex AM1).
Honestly I think that the main problem with my performance is that I started surfing a bit late (31). I'm keen, I commit, I surf as much as I can (with work, family etc), overall I enjoy it very much, but I still can't do a radical turn off the lip. I catch waves up to 5-6 ft, I go down the line, pump, turn a bit here and there, but I find difficult to perform a strong bottom turn in the right place at the right time, so a tight turn it's unlikely...

Edmondomondo wrote:but I still can't do a radical turn off the lip. I catch waves up to 5-6 ft, I go down the line, pump, turn a bit here and there, but I find difficult to perform a strong bottom turn in the right place at the right time, so a tight turn it's unlikely...

So do you think changing the shape overall, volume distribution, nose and tail and other shape characteristics of your surfboard will help you bottom turn better and help you to do a radical off the lip ?


Is the answer to get a board like what Conner Coffin rides ? What does he do before his off the lip and snaps ( especially at 1:12 mark ) ?

The question about the shape had nothing to do with my surfing skills. Seeing that for my job I change country every few years, I would like to be able to choose the right shape depending on the local waves, it's just another skill.
I have seen guys surfing a door. Kelly surfing the cover of a guitar. Of course surfing a sofa wouldn't help my movements, but a right board wouldn't do the turns if I'm not able to do them either.

I'm more than aware that I would do fantastic turns now if I had started at 10 years old. And even starting at 31 I would do much better turns just catching more good waves and with a bit of coaching. The fact is that I have to surf mainly in very crowded breaks, so if I catch just a couple of not-so-good waves in a session (doesn't happen always but often) the process of getting good at turns gets super slow or almost impossible.
Said that, I tried to do something to fix it: for example a trip to a less crowded place last year (I had another now but had to cancel it due to the pandemic) and, when flat, I have been skating a bit to build muscle memory, and this helped a bit, plus a few mobility drills just to have the body ready in the water.

Conner Coffin does beautiful turns there, sure. He adjusts his position, af course feet in the perfect position, compresses his body just before carving, pressure on the inside rail, then realeases extending his body, hand in the water, snap, already looking forward down the line. All this very quickly. Is that what you meant?

Edmondomondo wrote: when flat, I have been skating a bit to build muscle memory, and this helped a bit,

If you're just using a "standard" sk8board, then you instead might want to get one of these. This has always made the biggest difference in how my students improve their turns/carves.

Edmondomondo wrote: He adjusts his position, af course feet in the perfect position, compresses his body just before carving, pressure on the inside rail, then realeases extending his body, hand in the water, snap, already looking forward down the line. All this very quickly. Is that what you meant?

Well yes, but also remember its the roll from inside rail to flat bottom to outside rail and then back is what makes a smooth carve.
Remember surfing is a lot about opposites. So if you want to go further up the lip and rip off the top, you first need to ................... ( ? )

Thanks!
So about the skateboard, I've this Surfeeling (found a pic on the internet): https://www.ranchodosurf.com.br/skate-l ... -leaf.html
Feels good to carve, don't know if that of your video is different...looks a bit shorter and higher, maybe it could allow more extreme turns, but do you think mine is not enough?

Second: good rail to rail ondulation? For sure applying the right pressure in the right points of the board is critical and it's difficult sometimes, it's all so fast...it has to become natural, instinctive over time.

Today I did a class after 2 years I didn't (the guy is good but asks me too much money, really too much)...fortunately he found that I improved eheh, he gave me a few tips about the projection of my arms and how to move between one turn and the following...under the pressure of the camera I did something good eheh. I will work on it.

So you think I should do some more rail to rail work with the sk8? I like carving with the skate very much, just I see that the water responds very differently...I feel I could carve ten times in a row with the sk8 doing almost the same movement, while in the water every session, every wave is different..let me know what you suggest, thanks!

The "carving" board you posted is not the same as a Carver skateboard. The one you have is for more traversing from left to right say on a hill. The one you have can't to this:

Got it, thanks!!

Hey there!

Try this video that I found on Youtube: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SU5cL7 ... atersports

I'm an intermediate surfer with similar competence to what you described, and this video helped me pick out my most recent board! Worth a watch and really simply summarizes how you should pick a board.

Ended up going with a Sharp Eye Disco Cheater. The board absolutely shreds in smaller surf, which is exactly what I was looking for.

Hi mate,
thanks! The video gives a good general idea, even though I was thinking about more subtle characteristics as the volume distribution for example and matching a certain type of wave with a certain shape.
When I go to my local surf shop, the guy asks me where I want to surf my new board (here? Fiji? Bali?) and he knows which kind of shape will work better in each place. Once you know that, the rest is not so complicated (I know lenght and volume that work for me).
Cheers

Thanks for sharing