Surfing Waves

Alright, I’m back a month later from the last time I posted, which I know was filled with endless amounts of pointers and possible reasons why I couldn’t catch any waves during a session. Well, because of this covid quarantine, this session was my first on since the other one in April. I went to manasquan, with a 7’0 minimal, 47 liters, and the waves were clean, about 2-3ft infrequent, and steep. Unfortunately though, no waves. Just to be clear, last year I was able to trim down the line, and do bottom and top turns. It’s weird that I actually felt more comfortable with the shortboard I used than the other board, which was the board I used last year. I also stupidly tried to go for a wave that was about to break in desperation just for one ride, and it would probably be on kook of the day if it was filmed (went over the falls).

What I can conclude: just like last time, I was noticing that I was at the top of the wave each time I paddled. I made sure to arch my back, cup my hands, keep my feet together, as well as staying on a good position on the board, and I was noticing the waves go straight to shore in front of me. Meanwhile, other people on long boards had 0 trouble catching waves, which I guess comes down to break knowledge, as it isn’t my local break (one of the few good beaches I know that are open) I think I was also a little scared seeing a wall of water come towards me, which I know can set you off for disaster. I’d also like to point out, I often fall backwards when making the drop, as my guess is that its an instinct to prevent the nose from diving, but by not leaning forward, makes the board fly in front of me.

I also felt like it was gonna nosedive on the drop (probably from me adjusting to paddling on a shortboard, farther up the board is my guess).

Anyway, I know that my paddling fitness must improve, which will come over time and with workouts at home. The only kinds of workouts I’ve been doing is cruising down my street with surf skates (swell tech and hamboard, yes the one from shark tank) but that doesn’t do anything to improve my upper body.

Anyway, sorry about the length, but I just truly think about these experiences too much and I’d love to know if there is anything to improve my technique on the board, as well as if I should go back to my wavestorm (the only other board I have and my most floaty board) Or maybe I’m just a kook. And yes this was 45-50 degree water.

fevahdawg wrote:I made sure to cup my hands,

WRONG, try again.

fevahdawg wrote:as well as if I should go back to my wavestorm

YES, you should until you learn how to properly paddle. ( and learn the wave )

Oh FFS. cup your teeth and grit your hand go longer in board choice, be further forward on your board, match or slightly exceed the speed of the wave, review your positioning, the guys on long boards were catching waves you were not, doesn’t that reveal something too you!

have to ask: what type and size fins are on the board. G7's, AM1's? Fiberglass or plastic? If you are getting hung at the top of the wave it might make a difference.

These are my thoughts:
- you are a bit afraid so you are trying to catch the wave when its not as steep. Or maybe you are hanging further back so you can safely get over the waves and they dont break on top of you while you are waiting.

- you are leaning back to try to keep your board horizontal (your brain much prefers to stay horizontal)

As a result of these:

- you are starting too far back. You need to go closer to the beach. See where the longboards are - now move in 10ft. If that doesnt work move in another 5ft. Do not be where they are, be further in. Get your positioning right - unless you are a great paddler, you cannot outpaddle bad positioning. You can outposition poor paddling though.

Might a set wave break on you - possibly. Stay alert and paddle hard towards the ocean if you see one coming

- you want the board to be at an angle. Imagine you are at the top of a hill skiing. Do you lean backwards? No, you lean forwards into the slope. Gravity works for skiing and gravity works for surfing. Use gravity, convince your brain that gravity is good, that going downhill is good.

- are you paddling for long enough? If you stop paddling too early, as the board starts tilting, you will miss the wave. Horizontal paddling syndrome I've heard it called - you only paddle when its flat and stop; but you have to paddle when you are going down hill. Same as point 2; embrace the tilt.

- as jaffa says, are you sliding back on the board to lift the nose up? Dont do that

In short (what i think) - there are things in surfing that feel 'wrong'. It feels wrong to put your nose close to the water, to be tilting down hill, to start paddling when the wave is already pretty steep. So you avoid those issues, you lean back, you start too far out, you stop paddling, you try to keep the nose up and the board flat.

You just have to convince yourself that its not wrong; that is how things are meant to work. Once you start looking for the tilt, looking for gravity to help you out - it will click.

Well - the above, but its possible your padding is really bad and you arent moving at all!