Surfing Waves

Hoping to get a little advice about my next board purchase. I’ve been riding on and off for 25 years, but only every second weekend. However, over the last year I’ve been surfing much more regularly.

I have a 9’6” log and love it. I also have a 7’6” and a 6’4”. I will be keeping the log, but I’m keen to get rid of the other two and own just one short board.

I don’t ride big waves, nothing bigger than about 5 foot. But I ride in every condition, no matter how bad it is, because I generally can only get wet on weekends.

I weigh 78kg and I’m 6 foot tall.

I am looking for advice about what one shortboard I should buy to cover all conditions I might encounter. I have no predetermined idea about size, volume or style. I’m just looking for your expert opinions.

Thanks a lot, I really value this forum’s advice.

My recommendation is to get a local shaper to make you a custom board for those conditions.

What’s wrong with keeping ( and riding ) the 6’4” ? What shape/outline does that happen to be ?

The 6’4” is quite wide, with the widest point being just forward of middle. It’s a thruster set-up and has plenty of volume. But it’s a complete beater and I reckon I’ve earned a new stick.

I will be getting my new board custom made, but I’m keen to get other people’s opinions about size and shape.

Thanks guys.

cadnams wrote:I will be getting my new board custom made, but I’m keen to get other people’s opinions about size and shape.

Your local shaper, who you are entrusting your hard earned money to ( and in some instances, life to ) should know you and your local surf break much better than anyone of us do. Be honest with him about your level, and what you liked and didn't like about your 6'4" ( of which I asked about ).

Too many cooks spoil the pot.

Dude, I weigh about the same. My board is 6'x x 19 3/4 x 2 5/8 and it rocks. Here is what you can ask for since it's a good setup for stocky guys like us: flatter rocker, hard rails, I like the thumb tale better than the squash tail, and have him keep some volume on the nose and tail but with thin rails. I gota 5 fin setup, I only use the quads when it's small or mushy, or even big and mushy, and use thrusters for walls and barrels, and anything overhead. That is it, that is the magic board!