Getting Older Short Boarder

[macnevine]

Hey There- just turned 53- I am and experienced surfer. I am 5-8 - weight 165- in decent shape try to surf 2 days a week on average. Back in the day I feel I used to surf super well but over the years I have settled in to being more of an intermediate surfer. I have been very frustrated lately with wave count and I feel I need more volume. I have purchased a fish for a local break that works well when it is mushy and with the volume of 36 that seems to work pretty well for me. However, for some faster breaks I still want a performance thruster to drive down the line for some off the tops etc... I am also heading to El Salvador in Nov. so I want to figure this out. I like LOST, Channel Islands, Patterson shapes (thrusters for sure) to name a few. I have a 6-1 Channel Islands flier 2 with dimensions 6-1 x 19 5/8 x 2 5/16 and this board surprisingly works super well for me but my buddies say it looks just a little too long under my feet for my height. It is also getting old and yellow so I need a new board. (i know the 6-1 it is big for my size- but it works) have tried buying about 2 experimental used thrusters lately at 5-11 and I have tried to go thicker (but not too wide like a fish) both boards average volume was about 31 but I can tell I need more volume which is why I am frustrated. I feel I need to try to find a performance thruster at about 36 volume.

All of this is leading to a question for guys in my situation.

I am pretty sure I know my needed dims now but wondered your thoughts. I need to go thicker on the board but I do not want to necessarily go wider like a fish and for my height and weight I need to the height to be around 5-10 or 5-11 (I think).

It it reasonable to think I can get a high performance thruster dims: 5-11 x width range 19-19.5 max x thickness close to 3 to get my volume to about 36 where I suspect I need it? or is going that thick going to require wider? I am having a hard time on craigslist to find a short board with those dims because most fall into the range of 29-31 volume. Boards I am finding in the 5-11 range that have the needed 36 volume are too wide and resemble more of a fish which I already own.

Thanks for any experience out there to help this older guy out who still wants to shortboard.

[waikikikichan]

1) Are you sure you own an actual "fish" or just a swallow tail hybrid ? Which brand/model fish board do you own ?

2) 3 inches thick on a HPSB ?

3) Why don't you try going with EPS/Epoxy traditionally glassed ? More float for the same dimensions.

[macnevine]

1. I picked up a used Hoglet by CI. so not sure if the Hoglet is a fish or more of a fun board - no matter it works for mushy stuff but It has the volume I need - I can just tell.

2. Yes that is what i though - 3 inch seems a bit thick for High Perf. But worth the thought.

3. I did not realize that EPS /epoxy added that much more float. I will research.

Thanks for the thoughts.

[waikikikichan]

1. I picked up a used Hoglet by CI. so not sure if the Hoglet is a fish or more of a fun board -

That Hoglet is definitely NOT a fish. More an "Egg" or "Pill".

This is a modern or retro fish. If you want rip past those longboarders, get something like this.

You focusing too much on volume numbers, focus more on the board as a whole.

[dtc]

I dont think its actually possible to get a 5'11 x 19 x 3 shortboard that is 36L volume. There just isnt enough foam in that sized board with a shortboard shaped board to get you to 36L

for example the hayden shapes Love Buzz is 5'11x 19 5/8 x 2 9/16 and its only 31L

The hypto krypto is a wider / rounder shape and is 5'11 x 20 3/8 x 2 11/16 and its 34L

I dont surf a shortboard, but for what its worth many of my good level 50+yr old shortboarding friends love the hypto krypto. Yes its a board that many many people use who shouldnt because they dont have the skills; but one of my friends (about 55) has surfed it in the Ments, Bali, Maldives and PNG and reckons its great. He surfs it shorter (which is as intended) - he normally surfs a 6ft shortboard and surfs his HK at 5'8.

I doubt you are going to find the board you want secondhand. Perhaps a shaper can custom make one for you that gets close. Trouble is, you might be getting something 3+ thick and its turning into a grovellor (or a 'fish').

[surferbee]

I recommend a Lost Puddle Jumper. It's not a true HPSB, but it surfs well in just about everything up to a little overhead. A 5'8" is 21.5 x 2.63 @ 36.80L. I'm a bit smaller than you and I ride a 5'2", but I previously had a 5'7" that I picked up used and it was still fun (although it was definitely a little boatier). There's also two other versions of the PJ if you're looking for more performance: the RP (round pin) which is 36L @ 5'10" and the HP (high performance) which is 35L @ 5'10".

The Firewire Evo also packs a lot of punch in small package - the 5'8" is 35.6L. It is one of the fastest boards I've ever ridden. The shape is a little awkward when it gets too hollow, but otherwise it goes in everything from 2ft mush to OH.

I've also heard good things about the Rusty Dwart and the Dwart-Too. I haven't ridden either, but there's a good bit of volume for the size and a reputation for punching above it's class. From looking at it though, it has a really full rail and that's always been a bit of a concern for me. But I'd grab a used one if I saw a good deal.

From my experience, it makes more sense to go a bit wider rather than thicker to gain the volume you're looking for. When the board is too thick, glide and wave entry become issues and the board can feel like it bogs on turns or hangs up in the lip. Some shapers will get around this by beveling the rail and just keeping the thickness through the center/chest area. But the general consensus (for the moment at least) seems to be to go a little wider.

Hope that helps. Good luck with your search!

[macnevine]

I was able to try a 5-9 Firewire Tomo Cymatic that boasts about 34L that seemed to work well. A guy at the shop was trying to get me to consider the Firewire Sci-fi at a 5-11 or 6 foot at about the same 33-34 L. These new designs seem to have what I am looking for. If I buy one I will report back. They are hard to find used and they are expensive. Thanks for all the thoughts.

[dtc]

Yeah, some of those FireWire/Tomo boards look good.