Surfing Waves

Hey there. Thanks in advance for reading my post and commenting. I have read quite a few of these “help me pick my next board” threads and I’m hoping that mine is a little different.

I first surfed over 10 years ago and picked up the basics immediately. I was soon surfing a 6’ Chris Birch, although by no means ripping, I could catch a wave and go down the line. I felt pretty good about my surfing future.

Then I had a few orthopedic surgeries and had to relearn everything and size up big time. I have an 8’2” and a 7’10” (both hand shaped custom) that are my go to boards to surf the beach breaks in Nassau county along with a performance 9’ for Montauk and another 9’ that I keep on the west coast for San-O. I also have a 9’ SUP that I take out from time to time because sitting on the board too many days in a row kills my lower back (that’s one surgery). I can handle all of these boards pretty well, and I rate myself a solid 3 surfer with an occasional 3.5 day as well as certified kook days.

I want to size down so I can go out in heavier surf and get barreled. I understand this is a process so I’m committed to taking it slow.

I’m just returning from a third surf trip in Central America where I surfed a 7’ board just fine, and I feel very comfortable now with that size. I thought about having a 7’ made for me
In Costa Rica (same as I have surfed there) but not sure when I’ll get back to that town. And anyway, someone suggested I go a little bit shorter. This most recent trip I surfed a 7’ 48L epoxy pop out on the easier reef breaks in Bocas, which was fine enough, but it felt clunky and slow as has been my experience with a lot of cheap boards.

I was looking at the FireWire Addvantage 6’6” which is also 48L and seems like a logical next step. However, I would love to hear some more suggestions. I am a woman, 5’5”, 135 lbs, and in pretty good shape. I am a little heavy on the back foot and working on getting better at late take offs. I can top and bottom turn and cutback, both front and back side, and would like all that to be a snappier and more radical. I can duck dive too but not a 48L!

I could get in touch with the guy who shaped my 7’10” but he takes foreverrrrrr.

Looking forward to reading your suggestions!

Others will give you recommendations for boards but I am only going to point out that you don't need to scale down to surf heavier surf or to get barreled. I surf boards that have huge volumes. Not too sure exactly how much but when I am sitting on the board the water comes up to the height of my surfshorts so basically my waist. I go out in heavy surf a lot and have developed skills to deal with the surf and perhaps more importantly the physical conditioning to help deal with it. Anyway I think you need to work at the physical conditioning and not getting a smaller board. But others may have more useful comments.

Lmkay wrote:I was looking at the FireWire Addvantage 6’6” which is also 48L and seems like a logical next step.

For the majority of post inquiring about the Firewire Addvance, usually the answer is NO. But in your case, which is really rare, I think it'll will be a good choice to try.

Agree with waikikichan; but there are other boards that you may wish to look at as well. I actually think you could look at boards around the 40L mark, but probably would keep the length around mid 6ft and not too aggressive in outline (ie an outline/shape like the Addvance, or a more 'egg' shape, rather than a standard shortboard shape).

A 6'4 to 6'6 hypto kryto comes to mind, as its a just a bit less bulky than an Addvance (and you arent the biggest surfer around). At the cheaper epoxy end, a Torq 6'8 funboard or 6'6 modfish (and plenty of other fish types). Lost quiver killer. Most shapers will have a model like this - my only concern with the Addvance is that it is a big thick board and it might just be a bit much for your size and weight.

I've got the Addvance 6'6 and it's a great board, but I'm 6' 165lbs 55yo. And yes, like dtc mentions it's a thick board. I can tell you from experience it gets hard to handle in overhead surf, to hold in your hands when you push thru waves. If you use small fins it surfs just fine in those conditions.
If you mainly surf smaller waves it will be fine. It's a great wavecatcher! Doesn't like hollow waves because the low rocker line, it's possible but you must be carefull the nose/rail doesn't catch.

I want to size down so I can go out in heavier surf and get barreled.

Hmm, it's a good board to get into a wave early, and you can get barreled with it, but turning the nose down in a hollow/barreling wave can result in a wipeout, a hard one
Surfing hollow/barreling waves is easiest with a surfboard with a lot of rocker, but paddling and wave catching with those boards is much harder..

Recovering from 3 different orthopedic surgeries you probably should proceed much more cautiously than you did before. Especially considering the back surgery or condition is still causing you some pain

Hi, I am a similarly sized surfer, i'm 13, 5'5, and 105 pounds, I think that based on your surfing background and the information you gave us, you should be fine on the 6'6.