Surfing Waves

Hey guys, 25 yr old from Capetown. Been surfing for about 3 years and decided to transition to a "real" shortboard 3 months ago from my retro fish. Its a pyzalien 5'10 x 18.25 x 2.25 x 26.2L. I'm almost 6'2 foot tall and I ate xxxxx for the first month or so going almost everyday. Right now I'm pretty used to it, can go down the line, top bottom turns, some cutbacks much more easily. However, i pearl ALOT. I've looked up but got mixed answers in regards to body positioning on board. Many say the nose should be barely above the water or even partially submerged. However, I see some local rippers and their nose is at least 4 inches above the waterline when paddling into a wave. What are some reasons for pearling? Where should the nose roughly be when paddling into wave versus normal paddling? Someone help me!!!!!! Thanks so much, have a great day

Hey averagejoebiden ,
You don't want to be too far back on your board or the nose will stick up and you will push water and get into the wave late. Ideally you want the nose just above the water so as you catch the wave your board will start to glide down the face of the wave while you pop up and put just enough pressure on the tail to keep your board from pearling. With that said every board is a little different and you will need to find the best spot. Our experience with most beginner and intermediate surfers is they are too far back and that makes it harder to catch the wave. I would try and ride a shortboard with a little more volume. I'm not sure what your weight is but 26 L is not much for a guy who is 6'2". Maybe rent or borrow a little bigger board and see how you do. I think you will find it much easier and will catch lots more waves. a little more volume in your board will get you into the wave a little earlier and that will help.

If you paddle around too far forward or back you can tell, it's when you are planing that the board glides the easiest. Same with surfing, try to find the sweet spot.

As to pearling, here are two things you can try to resolve:

1) Paddle harder: most beginners pearl because they don't have enough speed to enter the wave optimally, they end up at the top of the wave and going straight down, and pearling. You aren't a beginner but are still getting used to the smallness, so concentrate on paddling harder and earlier, no last second drop in's.

2) Most of us "cheat" the wave a little bit, we usually don't point straight to the beach, but slightly toward the curl and away from the whitewash. It's harder to fit the board in a round wave if you are going straight towards the beach. Either that or remember to turn as you pop up, into the wave, not letting yourself end up vertical and pearling.

And, by the way, this is a normal problem when you first start on a shortboard, go to it!!!

I'm new in the skateboarding, Is there any suggestion which skateboard to use I'm looking for longboard skateboard, I've heard of HyperOutdoor brand which has quite a fancy skateboards but I don't know which one to choose as I'm a newbie.

harryjosh wrote:I'm new in the skateboarding, Is there any suggestion which skateboard to use I'm looking for longboard skateboard, I've heard of HyperOutdoor brand which has quite a fancy skateboards but I don't know which one to choose as I'm a newbie.

Better to ask the question in the longboard section, not the the shortboard section. Even better yet, ask the question on an actual SKATEBOARDING forum, not a SURFING forum.

which is the best board for a take off at Kandui 9ft at Mentawai? thanks

the board that has the best surfer on it? To be honest, if you are taking off on 9ft kandui, you should know your boards already.

fambrois123 wrote:which is the best board for a take off at Kandui 9ft at Mentawai? thanks

Oh really, it is also known as NO KANDUI, you really think you can?
You ain’t going to do it on a fish, slightly better chance on a longer white round tail thruster.
Take your A games and quality travel insurance!
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