New board advice from seasoned veterans!

[bananarocker]

Hi guys,

Apologies if this is a long winded post!

I Could really do with some advice from the very experienced surfers on a board. I've surfed for 20 years on and off but have just got back in the water after 3 years with a serious injury. I've been out 4 or 5 times and even in small waves it's been tough water fitness wise. I would class my ability as lower intermediate at best and still need a lot of work on turns and face carving.

I want a board for 1-4 ft waves beach break poorish quality stuff

I've always had between a 6'3 and 6'6 but since I've been out of the water things just seemed to have changed equipment wise and I'm struggling to know what to buy so I can progress as a weekend at best now older surfer.

I'm fortunate enough to be able to rent a few custom boards from a decent shop although they are old shapes and have been using a 6'6 Webber Afterburner which is ok and has a feel I'm used to. It wasn't great catching waves though at 1-3 ft which is what I need! I've also taken a McTavish tri-fin fish out last weekend which feels a little boyant/strange but paddles well at 6'2 but I struggle with duck diving a little due the the extra volume through the board and nose with flat rocker. First time out I went with one of the newer style higher volume short boards but didn't get on with it at all even though at 6 ft but that could be me struggling to catch waves with my water fitness being very poor.

I'd rather not spend a huge amount with the usage limit it will get but my local shop has 2 old stock new boards at a huge discount. A traditional Aloha similar to the Webber and a Walden CD4 measure 6'2 which I think maybe the ticket but I'm concerned with it being a long/short hybrid even though fairly short it will be really tough to duck dive. Both are around 37 litres and I'm only 65 kilos.
I'm open to other ideas but haven't the time to waste on a bad choice. The priority is duck diving and catching a high number of small waves to work on basic manoeuvres really.

All advice greatly appreciated.

[Tudeo]

Have a look at the Chum Lee
https://shop.firewiresurfboards.com/col ... r-chum-lee

First impression reviews are all very good..

[Big H]

So if I read this right your fitness is poor, struggling to catch small waves with the afterburner but want a board around 6.6 max, but not overly flat and fat like fish or grovellers.

There are a lot of boards like that....I'd look for something that was wider and thicker than the afterburner but still had some rocker.

I have this board; Stuart bender x - 6'6"x21x2 3//4" ....a little wider, a little thicker than the afterburner, rocker that works in beachies but not so much so that you push water. It is not unique....plenty of boardmakers make similar models.....good basic shape beefed up. Find a size that suits you from any of dozens of brands.

[Big H]

BTW....personally if I was having an issue with poor paddle fitness, didn't have a lot of time to spend surfing, duck diving would not be my first priority. I'd put more weight on something that would help me be a better paddler and get more waves (opposite of struggling).....I'd get a bigger board than what your are looking at but still balanced in profile dimensions (as opposed to an overly fat and wide groveller)......I have this one; 7'x21 1/2"x2 3/4" and is a peach of a board to ride....mid rockered, boxy rails, easy to paddle, easy to surf, gets lots of waves.

[bananarocker]

Thanks for the replies Big H. There are some interesting suggestions there. It's interesting looking at the sizes of the 2 boards you have.

If I can ask, why do you feel they are better for you rather than the current trend of say a Tomo type board of say 6'0 which still manages to hold a large amount of volume?

I'm trying to understand why this size of board are now so popular and how they appeal rather than say the very nice 6'6 you referenced that looks a beauty?

[Tudeo]

Many surfers want to surf the shortest possible board, so the industry provides. The want for shortness is for a more dynamic ride, more easy/quick/radical steering because of less swing weight up front. But also there's this strong peer pressure, fashion, thing to show they're the real deal..
The downside of a shorter board is they're harder to paddle because of less glide than a longer board.

[waikikikichan]

I few honest question so I can have a better understanding of your situation.

I've surfed for 20 years on and off but have just got back in the water after 3 years with a serious injury. ------- still need a lot of work on turns and face carving.

So you can't do the basic turns frontside and backside ? Even after 20 years ?
1) How is your Bottom Turns ?
2) What were the board sizes you rode in the past before your go to 6'3" ?

I want a board for 1-4 ft waves beach break poorish quality stuff

If it's a "one maneuver" mushy dumping beach break close out, then it is what it is. It was like that for me yesterday, pop up, bottom turn, get slammed. No matter what polish you buy, you're still trying to polish a Turd.
1) What type/size boards are the other good surfers using at the same break ?
2) If it 1 foot do you still want to use a shortboard ?

I've always had between a 6'3 and 6'6 but since I've been out of the water things just seemed to have changed equipment wise and I'm struggling to know what to buy so I can progress as a weekend at best now older surfer.

Since you've been out of the water, equipment has changed, agreed. But have YOU also changed ? Are you still the same weight as 20 years ago ?

I'd rather not spend a huge amount with the usage limit. ----- The priority is duck diving and catching a high number of small waves to work on basic manoeuvres really.

Soooooo you want a board that's.......
1) Cheap
2) Catches a lot of waves
3) Duck dives with ease

Surf Board like Bowling balls, Computers, paint brushes and Arrows have NO POTENTIAL on their own. It's up to the user's input. There's surfers that can duck dive 9'0" longboards. There's surfers that can do airs on longboards. You surely can learn to duck dive and road house cutback a 6'6" ( especially after 20 years of surfing ). If you are having a problem catching waves, you need a bigger board or work on your paddle technique. If you can't duck dive a 6'6", you have to work on your technique or maybe the break is just too hard to fight against.

[waikikikichan]

why do you feel they are better for you rather than the current trend of say a Tomo type board of say 6'0 which still manages to hold a large amount of volume?

I'm trying to understand why this size of board are now so popular and how they appeal rather than say the very nice 6'6 you referenced that looks a beauty?

Because 20 years ago "everyone" was following the pied piper and his super narrow - ultra rocker out potato chips. With the help of the rebirth of cool longboards in the 90's, free your mind fishes ( rastovich and curren ), and the recent mid-length bridging the gap, Tomo boards have a timely opportunity to be well received. Funny, i couldn't sell his custom made boards only 5 short years ago. Others shapers came to the shop and laughed at his strange shapes. Now those very same shapers have similar design features.

[waikikikichan]

why do you feel they are better for you rather than the current trend of say a Tomo type board of say 6'0 which still manages to hold a large amount of volume?

I'm trying to understand why this size of board are now so popular and how they appeal rather than say the very nice 6'6 you referenced that looks a beauty?

Because 20 years ago "everyone" was following the pied piper and his super narrow - ultra rocker out potato chips. With the help of the rebirth of cool longboards in the 90's, free your mind fishes ( rastovich and curren ), and the recent mid-length bridging the gap, Tomo boards have a timely opportunity to be well received. Funny, i couldn't sell his custom made boards only 5 short years ago. Others shapers came to the shop and laughed at his strange shapes. Now those very same shapers have similar design features.

[kookextraordinaire]

I think that Rob Machado said "90% of people in the 90's were surfing the wrong board."

Sounds about right. Good thing I started surfing in '05 then.