what separates the good surfers from the great surfers

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what separates the good surfers from the great surfers

Postby lukathegrom » Sun Aug 20, 2017 8:18 am

what makes the pros better than the rest of us.
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Re: what separates the good surfers from the great surfers

Postby jaffa1949 » Sun Aug 20, 2017 12:32 pm

Now it is an early start surfing , gaining skills naturally , self belief, often parental backing and most amounts of water time possible, and being above average Niall they do at each stage.
If you can get in the water with good surfers of your own age who are group competitive, and watch you push each other to excel :D
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
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Re: what separates the good surfers from the great surfers

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Aug 20, 2017 6:31 pm

It is my personal belief that those who excel at anything have a personal defect, something that drives them to excel beyond what an ordinary person would deem reasonable. Maybe they are insecure and their insecurity makes them want to prove to themselves or others that they are better. It's not like they are born that way but I guess some genetics are needed also. But they need a reason to dedicate themselves, sacrificing lots of what others would consider normal life to become a pro surfer. I think these days it includes starting at a young age but at least for now how young is variable (could be 2 could be 12). My guess is that eventually it will get younger because they will have more time to perfect these surfing maneuvers.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: what separates the good surfers from the great surfers

Postby waikikikichan » Sun Aug 20, 2017 8:10 pm

lukathegrom wrote:what makes the pros better than the rest of us.

Easy answer ...............THEY GET PAID TO SURF.

Look at any sport, Golf, Cycling, Motorcross, Baseball, even Chess. We all can throw a ball, pedal our feet in circles, move a tiny horse across a checkered board and swing a club at a little white ball ( that's not even moving ) We know the WHAT to do. The PRO's have a better WHEN and WHERE to do the WHAT. They can also do those things Faster, Longer, more Easily.

Luka, enjoy your time as a beginner. Don't be in such a hurry to be a Pro.
A Pro can ride any board ....... it doesn't matter.
A Beginner can ride any board .......... it doesn't matter.
A Intermediate, on the other hand............... EVERYTHING matters !!
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Re: what separates the good surfers from the great surfers

Postby Tudeo » Mon Aug 21, 2017 1:11 am

lukathegrom wrote:what makes the pros better than the rest of us.

I would define 'better' in this context as: better able to surf in a way a competition jury or a pro photographer likes.

For me Better means to enjoy your surfing to the fullest and be in harmony with what's around you.
Death is coming to Brooklyn. And it's got buck teeth and a cotton tail!
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Re: what separates the good surfers from the great surfers

Postby lukathegrom » Mon Aug 21, 2017 9:22 pm

Thanks for the insightful answers. :surfing:
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Re: what separates the good surfers from the great surfers

Postby kookextraordinaire » Sat Aug 26, 2017 1:03 pm

Talent.
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