Surfing Waves

Posted: **Sat Jan 07, 2017 10:15 am**

so i have been surfing for a while on a beach break and i just went surfing on reef and the waves feel so much steeper than the beach breaks i normally surf also it is much more shallow at the reef and i think i have a fear of snapping my board. there are also rocks in front of the break that i am a little bit scared of and also the waves are quite bigger. so i went out and always pulled back on the waves because i was scared but i think that i could have surfed them any tips to over comming these fears thanks

Posted: **Sat Jan 07, 2017 10:53 am**

5 Sure-fire Ways to Overcome Fear and Anxiety Today
Learn these 5 powerful allies against anxiety and enjoy life again

Legend has it that Nasrudin was walking alone at night when he saw a group of people approaching in the far distance. Instantly, his imagination began to toy with him: "They are surely robbers!" he thought. "No, why just robbers? Murderers, cutthroats! About to set upon me, a lonely traveller, leave me for dead and steal all my possessions! How are my wife and children going to cope without me?!"

Nasrudin's heart began to pound. His mouth became as dry as his palms became wet. He shook from head to toe and found himself breathing like an unfit man running to the finishing line of his first marathon.

Having thoroughly terrified himself, he stumbled into a nearby graveyard and cowered shaking inside an open tomb, awaiting his fate. Meanwhile, the harmless strangers, worried by his dramatic behaviour, approached him and looked with concern down into the tomb. "What, pray, are you doing down there?" they asked.

Nasrudin, calming down quickly, said: "Well, put it this way: I am here because of you and you are here because of me!" (1)

Imagination is a tool to be used, but how many people misuse it to torment themselves? Imagination and emotionality are closely linked and what we imagine can feel very real to us (even when it isn't at all).

As the author Katherine Paterson once said: "To fear is one thing. To let fear grab you by the tail and swing you around is another."

If you find yourself becoming overly anxious, use the following steps to help you calm down and start to regain control.

1) Breathing is the short circuit for anxiety
I know I know, you hear a lot about 'deep breathing' to help you relax and reduce anxiety, but bear with me.

Quicker, shallower breathing is the first trigger which catapults all the other anxious symptoms into action. So by controlling breathing you control all the other anxiety symptoms as well.

If you purposely breathe out longer than you breathe in, your body has to calm right down (regardless of what tricks your imagination is playing on you).

So if you start to feel fearful:

Stop
Focus on your breath
Take a breath in (to the quick count of 7 in your mind)
Then slowly breathe out (to the quick count of 11 in your mind)
If you do this for a minute or so, you'll be amazed how quickly you've calmed down. We call this '7/11 breathing' but the numbers are up to you, just as long as the out-breath is longer than the in-breath.

"That's all very well!" I hear you say. "But when I get anxious I forget everything and all good advice goes out the window!"

Good point and well made. This brings us to...

2) Prepare for peaceful performance
If you get anxious and fear upcoming events, you'll notice that just thinking about that interview, speech, or whatever will start to cause physical responses – namely, anxiety.

So you might be thinking about next Wednesday's dental appointment and find yourself breathing more quickly or your palms getting moist. This in turn primes your body to become even more anxious in the actual situation and so the vicious cycle continues. And note the role of the imagination in priming your mind and body to feel fearful (see opening story).

But you're going to find that breathing in a relaxed 7/11 way whilst imagining the upcoming situation ahead of time calms the association down, priming your mind to feel more relaxed naturally and automatically when the actual situation arrives.

So when you find yourself thinking about the future event, do 7/11 breathing.

Prepare for Peaceful Performance
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One symptom of too much fear or anxiety is not being able to think clearly (Nasrudin stumbled into the nearest tomb!). This happens because the emotional part of the brain 'swamps' the thinking part so as to avoid, say, over-analysis getting in the way of running like Bejessus from a lion.

But in most modern situations we want to retain clear thought. And keeping your 'thinking brain' working actually calms you right down. The next step helps you do that.

3) Use a different part of your brain
When we become very anxious, it's harder to think clearly. But if we force ourselves to use parts of 'the thinking brain', this will dilute the emotion and begin to calm you down.

The easiest way to do this is with numbers. You can scale your own fear from 1 to 10, 10 being the most terrified it's possible to be and 1 being the ultimate relaxed state.

When you're feeling anxious, ask yourself: "Okay what number on the scale am I right now? Am I a 7, or a 5?" Just doing this will lower anxiety because it kick-starts the thinking brain, diluting the emotion and automatically making you calmer.

I recall the first time I gave a speech to three hundred people. Just before I was about to start, I was feeling more anxious than I would have liked. So I scaled myself at a 6, breathed longer out than in for a few moments, and waited for myself to go down to a 3 before starting. I took control. Scaling (sometimes known as 'grading') your fear puts a 'fence' around it, making it more manageable, and forces you to think.

4) Get control of your imagination
Fear and anxiety thrive when we imagine the worst. We developed imagination to be able to project into the future so we can plan ahead. However, a side effect of being able to imagine possible positive futures is being able to imagine things going wrong. A bit of this is useful; after all, there really might be muggers or loan sharks. But uncontrolled imagination is a nesting ground for anxiety and fear that can spoil otherwise happy lives.

Some people misuse their imagination chronically and so suffer much more anxiety than those who either future-project their imaginations constructively or who don't tend to think about the future much at all. Anxious, chronic worriers tend to misuse their imaginations to the extent that upcoming events feel like catastrophes waiting to happen. No wonder whole lives can be blighted by fear and anxiety.

Some people don't even really know they are doing this. So:

Sit down and do your 7/11 breathing.
Count yourself down from whatever number you deem yourself to be to a 2 or a 1.
Imagine seeing yourself in the situation you were dreading, but see yourself being calm, composed, cool, and comfortable and things going well. Doing this starts to recondition your mind to feel calmer and more upbeat about upcoming events or regular situations which were causing anxiety.
Or let me do this for you by clicking on the free audio below:

Audio Player
00:0000:00Use Up/Down Arrow keys to increase or decrease volume.

5) Use the AWARE technique
Fear and anxiety can feel as if they 'just happen to us', but we have much more control than we realize. AWARE is an acronym standing for:

A: Accept the anxiety. Don't try to fight it.

W: Watch the anxiety. Just watch it and when you notice it, scale your level of fear and start to breathe longer on the out-breath.

A: Stands for 'Act normally'. Carry on talking or behaving as if nothing is different. This sends a powerful signal to your unconscious mind that its over-dramatic response is actually not needed because nothing that unusual is going on. Like fire fighters coming out and seeing that no emergency is happening and so going back to the fire station.

R: Repeat the above steps in your mind if necessary.

E: Expect the best. One of the greatest feelings in life is the realization that you can control fear much more than you thought possible.

Overcoming fear and anxiety will give you the 'spare capacity' in life to focus on what you really want to be and do. It takes effort, but imagine the rewards.

Posted: **Sat Jan 07, 2017 10:55 am**

Surfing specific....

Surf at high tide on smaller swell/period days and slowly work your way up to being able to take on bigger waves at lower tide levels at longer periods. Baby steps.

Posted: **Sat Jan 07, 2017 4:04 pm**

Big H wrote:Surfing specific....

Surf at high tide on smaller swell/period days and slowly work your way up to being able to take on bigger waves at lower tide levels at longer periods. Baby steps.

unless at high tide there's no way to safely exit, as in the cases, for instance, of a wall or rocks , between dry land and a narrow strip of beach.

Posted: **Sat Jan 07, 2017 5:36 pm**

If you like that wave and want to surf it, then go out and get to know it. Allow yourself to just check things out. You don't have to take off on anything. You don't even have to paddle out. If you go to the break often enough, you'll start to see days when the wave looks more approachable. I surf at places where I just don't go out if the conditions aren't to my liking. I don't feel any less because I decide I just ain't into the conditions or, sometimes, just don't feel like putting on a damp wetsuit on a winter morning. Surfing should be fun. I have found that my skills progress faster when I surf in conditions I enjoy being in. Surfing is a hell of a lot more fun when you can be honest with yourself about whether you really want to be out on particular days. Living bravado-free is one of the keys to having pleasure.

Posted: **Sat Jan 07, 2017 5:40 pm**

There are real reasons to be afraid of certain breaks or of surfing in general. Surfing a shallow reef is going to increase your chances of a severe injury especially if you combine that with bigger waves. Bigger waves alone increases your risk of a severe injury. Still surfers go out in those conditions. I think there are a couple of ways to approach that. One is just to accept that you are going to be hurt and this is what big wave surfers all do because they all get severe injuries. They face it by making sure they have others looking out for them. They also prepare for the big surf doing a variety of training programs and originally starting on smaller waves in less dangerous conditions and working their way slowly up to big dangerous conditions. Some surfers will surf a dangerous break until they get hurt then quit surfing that break. If you are too scared to take off then don't worry about it and work at taking of on smaller waves that you aren't afraid of taking off on then gradually increase the size of the waves. There is a whole skill set of knowing where and when and how to wipeout without getting hurt. I don't know how you learn that but surfing with more experienced friends who can tell you what they do might help. I learned to wipeout bodysurfing and paipo boarding and kneeboarding and that carried over to surfing. I took judo and that helped too, as a beginner in judo you learn how to fall without getting hurt. If you want to surf a shallow reef break it doesn't often help to go when it's high tide because it might only break at high tide when the waves are bigger or if it does break it breaks inside where it is even shallower but still surfing a shallow reef when it is small will lessen the severity of injuries although maybe increase the frequency of them and allow you to get used to the break without dying or being crippled. Also shallow reef or rock breaks increase the chances of damaging your board. If you want to surf them you just have to accept that. It's going to happen.... you and your board will hit the reef. So my advice is start small and safe and gradually work your way up to bigger more dangerous learn the skills it takes along the way.

Posted: **Sat Jan 07, 2017 9:25 pm**

If you want to surf Reef break versus surfing Beach break, then you better not "suck at surfing" as your name implies. Surfing is mainly PADDLING, like over 90% of the time. So if your surfing sucks, your paddling, speed and catching waves suck. So to get better at surfing reef breaks, you have to get in early with a strong paddle. You need the momentum to get down the face. Learn to paddle better.

Posted: **Sat Jan 07, 2017 10:51 pm**

There are reefs and there are REEFS, some are quite benign and provide consistently formed waves to enhance learning and performance.
Others require the capability of full ability to surf, at he extreme end Pipeline, teahupou , cloudbreak,

Sand is just as capable of harming you extreme sand more so, Puerto Escondido ! Steepness handling is a skill you progress with as is going to larger waves.

Pick you days watch the surf, increase what you do by small increments, go out if it is safe watch from the side, maybe ride a shoulder if the situation supports that ( be seriously aware of surfers deeper) .

If you feel you can take one on, experience the ride or the wipeout, whichever happens from that.

If you are not ready don't, we would prefer you stayed safe!

Posted: **Sun Jan 08, 2017 10:18 am**

I think you need to go step by step, that's all... as Jaffa1949 said, there are reefs and reefs.

I've been close to a bad accident in a french shorebreak, I hit my head really bad and felt a "crack" in my neck. Lucky I got nothing bad except a big dizziness but basically the same wipe out on a reef would have sent me straight to hospital for sure... It's only sand, but sometimes it can hurt you really bad.

I surf mostly reefs now and never got anything like that. I just choose carefully where and when I surf. Many reefbreaks aren't that shallow, and if you know how to surf (hence how to fall) you will maybe not even touch the bottom once.

Other are quite the opposite, you will hit it almost everytime.
What I do before heading to a shallow reef (when I already know it's shallow) is assessing the following:

Is there a take off zone where the waves are not so steep ? If it's a kind of wave where you have to take off straight into a barrel, that's not for me (yet). I know my chances of falling on the take off are high on these kind of waves, and wiping out on the take off of a shallow wave is not really a good idea...
If the take of zone is a bit more mellow before heading to a steeper/hollower section, usually I prefer. First I will have time to set up, second if I fall I will most likely expect it and anticipate it. It doesn't mean I won't connect with the reef, but normally I won't go over the fall with the lip, which is clearly the worst.

If you are more intermediate, check also for the shoulder. If there is no shoulder (a barrel and then nothing) you better stay away from it for now. But if there is a mellow shoulder, or at least a shoulder that will leave you in a deep channel, you can go step by step by starting to take off close to the channel and getting deeper and deeper as long as you are making progresses and you gain confidence.

Last point, check the end section, and be careful with it. Some of them are extremely shallow, so don't go for a top turn, a floater or a wipe out if you are not sure there is enough water beneath you ! :lol:

If you are doing it step by step, there is no reason for you to get badly injured, except from a few reef cuts on your feet and dings on your board at the entrance/exit. My board actually get many more dings than me, but I prefer it that way than the opposite ! :lol:

I just take precautions. I don't surf where it's too big and shallow and above my level, I exit waves before ending up on razors... and I surf spots that aren't that crowded/with too many rippers in. So I don't play the "I'm deeper" game too much.

Use your own judgement regarding your level, if you are pushing yourself a little bit that's probably ok. But if you are scared as hell you will probably panick and make wrong decisions that can lead you where you don't want to be ! So be wise and take your time, no rush !

Posted: **Sun Jan 08, 2017 7:26 pm**

oldmansurfer wrote:There is a whole skill set of knowing where and when and how to wipeout without getting hurt.

As the winter swell rises it’s important to review how to wipe out safely. IMHO Surf Science has great information. http://www.surfscience.com/topics/learn-to-surf/surfing-101/how-to-wipe-out-properly Old Man Surfer has also made some great posts about this….OMS, can you share a link or two?

Step 1: Jump Away From Your Board
If you know you're going to fall, use your last bit of balance to jump away from your board. The best place to jump is towards or over the wave. Never jump in front of the board, or you will risk it hitting you in the head. A good way to jump is to go straight off the back of the board. As long as no one is in front of you, you can even push your board towards the shore to get it away from you. One of the best spots to aim for is the whitewater. Because it is churning, your impact is braced by the opposing forces of the water.
No matter where you jump or even if you just fall, always use one hand to block the surfboard from hitting you. Keep your arm extended towards it so you can push it away if it bounces towards you.

Step 2: Jump Shallow
Whether you jump or fall off your board, always do so like you are jumping into a shallow pool, not the deep end where the diving board is. Sometimes you will think it is deep but really the ground is only two or three feet below you. If you jump expecting it to be deeper you can sprain an ankle or even cut yourself on rocks along the bottom. Jump shallow and protect yourself.

Step 3: Go Butt First
The best way to enter the water is on your butt like you're doing a cannon ball. By having your legs bent you minimize the chances of spraining an ankle on the bottom. If you are going to hit something like a rock, why not make use of the extra padding on your rear. There are other ways to hit the water, but whatever you do DO NOT GO HEAD FIRST!!! If your head hits something you might black out, so make sure it isn't leading the charge.

Step 4: Cover Your Head
Like I just said, your head is important and most people don't surf with a helmet. When you're underwater spinning, use your arms to cover your head. You can use one arm or both, but make sure you're protected.

Step 5: Stay Calm
Sometimes it feels like you've been underwater for a while, but you'll be surprised how long you can actually last holding your breath. Panicking only makes things worse for you so stay calm. Don't fight against the wave too much because that uses more oxygen, instead relax a bit and let the wave pass. Sometimes it will tumble you around a bit but it never lasts for too long.

Step 6: Get Low
If you've ever played around in the waves, you'll know that it is calm around the floor. The waves and white water do a lot of moving on the surface, but the lower you are, the less movement there is. Let yourself sink a bit and you will sometimes find you pass right under the wave. Of course, always make sure you know what is below you before doing this.

Step 7: Open Your Eyes
Most of the time the water is pretty clear. If you open your eyes, you will see what is around you which will make things much easier.

Step 8: Come Out Slowly
You might want to jump up quickly to get air, but if your board is right above you, you'll be looking at a nice bruise. You never know what is above you, it could be another surfer or their board. Come up slowly and keep one arm above you just in case.

Step 9: Get Your Board Quickly
As soon as you are back up, get your board under control. You don't want it flopping around at the end of the leash where it might hit someone. You can either swim to it, or do what I do which is pull your leash. Get on your board, survey the situation and paddle away from any other break waves or surfers.

Step 10: Relax & Evaluate
Once you have gotten on your board and are away from any other breaking waves or surfers, take a second to catch your breath. Think about what you did well and what you can improve on. Try and recall how it felt so that next time you are under water, you can think back to this moment and remember that even if it feels like you're being held under water, you'll pop back up eventually. If there are any parts of your wipe out you think you can improve, don't worry, because I promise you'll have plenty of other chances to practice.

Posted: **Sun Jan 08, 2017 8:31 pm**

Boman I am not really sure which ones since I talk about wiping out all the time. At this stage of my surfing career I am much better at wiping out than riding waves LOL
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Posted: **Sun Jan 08, 2017 11:26 pm**

oldmansurfer wrote:I am not really sure which ones since I talk about wiping out all the time.

Ah ha ha! Thanks for the quick reply...that's what I was looking for.

Posted: **Mon Jan 09, 2017 1:12 am**

Yes so from that in shallow areas fall flat on your back and roll toward the beach as the wave pulls you that often releases you from the grip of the wave (on smaller waves). Try to learn in shallow sand areas before you try shallow reef areas so you can get the techniques down

Posted: **Mon Jan 09, 2017 3:35 am**

I always look at the tide height before I go out, then on quiet days, I inspect the reef by leaving my board and feeling (carefully) with my feet the actual depth at a given tide, so I know what I'm dealing with.

Also I like to go have a look at the super low tides to check the shape of the reef, and try to imprint the dangerous areas.

Posted: **Mon Jan 09, 2017 4:38 am**

I had been surfing a new beach that was a reef break and only became aware of the reef when I paddled over a boil and the bottom of my board clunked into a rock. That surprised me. Another day I was out in one of my usual lineup spots where I had never touched bottom. I slide off my board sometimes and rest my elbows on my deck to take a little pressure off my back and just relax. I also get an idea of how deep it is. One day, however, I was in the usual spot and the surf was about 8 to 10 feet. I was surfing with a colleague and I had already decided I was way out of my league and was heading in. At just that moment a cleanup set came through and a wall of white water was coming at me. It was a pretty good sized wall so I decided to just grab the nose of my board duck through it and get carried in a little bit. When I slid off my board, though, I touched down on a smooth rock bottom. I was standing on the reef with the water just above my knees. It was a rude awakening. My first thought, "Oh so this is low tide on a reef break." I always keep track of the tides now.

Posted: **Mon Jan 09, 2017 7:05 pm**

I don't surf shallow reefs or rather rarely surf them. But over the years I have surfed a lot of shallow reefs even if the waves are incredible, sooner or later the waves at deeper reefs will also be incredible. Currently there are two shallow reefs that I surf more often then once a year. On one of them I smashed the nose of my 8 foot fungun. I didn't surf it again for a year but now I surf it with caution since I surf the break outside of it and often the waves go all the ways in and I just can't help myself.

The break outside of it is a deep reef break that usually I never touch although I wrote about a time that I touched the bottom after getting pounded deep in the links above. I knew the bottom was nearby and used it to push off to get back to the surface. The other shallow reef break is on the opposite side of the bay and it rarely breaks well enough to make me want to surf it maybe 2 to 4 times a year

Surfing Waves

Progress to bigger, shallow and steeper waves

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