Surfing Waves

Hi guys, so i have been surfing a 5'9" dumpster diver 19 x 2 7/16 around 29L and have found that it is just too big. I have been surfing for around 3 years now. It goes really well but i find when i want to really turn it, it is very very sluggish. I hoped on a friends 5'6" hypto and the thing was miles easier to turn. Now to my question - i was thinking of getting a more performance oriented board at around 6'0" 19 x 2 3/8 27L. It has more foil and more pulled in nose and tail. I want to know if this would be too long. Also i should add i am 16, weigh around 145lb, am about 5'8" and probably above average fitness. Thanks in advance.

Hypto is less performance oriented than a dumpster diver.....so what does that say?

What works for one may not work for another....different boards work better in different size and type waves than others.....some waves are meant to be carved up, others you tuck in and get down the line....are longboards too long? How about step ups in large surf? Try to ride a similar board and see how it works (friend or a demo).

why not go with a 5'6 hypto?

Big H wrote:Hypto is less performance oriented than a dumpster diver.....so what does that say?

What works for one may not work for another....different boards work better in different size and type waves than others.....some waves are meant to be carved up, others you tuck in and get down the line....are longboards too long? How about step ups in large surf? Try to ride a similar board and see how it works (friend or a demo).

I wouldve thought that the hypto was more performance than my board because of the narrower tail. Anyway, the 6'0" is much cheaper than Hypto as it is a custom, i have ridden both my board and the hypto in heaps of different conditions aswell, i know them both pretty well - also the hypto still has a little too much literage still but any smaller and it would be too small. What Im trying to say is how much different would the 6'0" be with all that extra length compared to my DD. Thanks for the reply

Here is <edit> the board if u wanna check it out -

Did both the Hypto and the dumpster diver have the exact same fin setup and same model fin. You'll be amazed how much the wrong fins makes a board hard to ride. Why don't you try different fins on your DD. What fins are you using ?
I dont understand why you think going Longer and Narrower is going to help you in you stalling out on your front side cutbacks ? A higher performance board demands a more high performing rider. Better to stick with a more forgiving outline and shape.

That's an Anderson! Are you from NZ?

Those andersons are sick- good board maker and performance shapes. I used to have a 6'3 x 19 3/4 x 2 1/2 and it turned so hard and tight, even though I was a beginner! That looks like the f1 model?
They usually handle from waist high pushy waves to double over head

benjl wrote:That's an Anderson! Are you from NZ?

Those andersons are sick- good board maker and performance shapes. I used to have a 6'3 x 19 3/4 x 2 1/2 and it turned so hard and tight, even though I was a beginner! That looks like the f1 model?
They usually handle from waist high pushy waves to double over head

Chur, yep from NZ and yep thats an F1 - nice shape aye.

waikikikichan wrote:Did both the Hypto and the dumpster diver have the exact same fin setup and same model fin. You'll be amazed how much the wrong fins makes a board hard to ride. Why don't you try different fins on your DD. What fins are you using ?
I dont understand why you think going Longer and Narrower is going to help you in you stalling out on your front side cutbacks ? A higher performance board demands a more high performing rider. Better to stick with a more forgiving outline and shape.

Yep, same fins on both - AI forever 2.1's. I have spoken to guys at surf shops (not a sales pitch i have known them for awhile) and they strongly suggest getting a more performance board. My DD was damaged on a flight so I'm not that keen on spending all that money on a repair, id rather spend that money on a new board. The DD was a custom and has unusually thick rails all the way through the board - you would understand if you saw it. My mate said the same thing when he had a try on it - said rails were far too thick. I understand where you are coming from. Thanks

Hypto's ding very easily. The Fred Rubble is a great hpsb. A 5'11" would put you around 19" 2 5/16 and around 27L. An inch off 6' won't make a noticeable difference. Check out this site, fun reviews: http://comparesurfboards.com/reviews/goodwavesurfboards/channel-islands-fred-rubble-surfboard-review

Glad to hear you a looking for a longer hpsb. This short/wide movement has gone too far!

kookextraordinaire wrote:Hypto's ding very easily. The Fred Rubble is a great hpsb. A 5'11" would put you around 19" 2 5/16 and around 27L. An inch off 6' won't make a noticeable difference. Check out this site, fun reviews: http://comparesurfboards.com/reviews/goodwavesurfboards/channel-islands-fred-rubble-surfboard-review

Glad to hear you a looking for a longer hpsb. This short/wide movement has gone too far!

Cool! Ill give it a look thanks mate .

Hey guys curious on some feedback on this I know it’s an old post but am currently riding a lost Uber driver 5’10 x 19.5 x 2.44 squash tail (original shape before they flattened it out for a more groveller approach) wicked board paddles great, rides well etc but is on its last legs. Looking at getting a new one but adjusting dims slightly .... as I would like to retain the great paddle ability but squeeze a touch more manouverability out of it. What would be the best dimmension to adjust to achieve this without affecting the paddle ability? Length?width?rocker?rail profile? as only needs a small tweak I don’t want to reinvent the wheel or anything just refine it a little bit

That’s what she said!!!

I had the same question, Thanks for sharing

Iniquitos96 wrote:Hey guys curious on some feedback on this I know it’s an old post but am currently riding a lost Uber driver 5’10 x 19.5 x 2.44 squash tail (original shape before they flattened it out for a more groveller approach) wicked board paddles great, rides well etc but is on its last legs. Looking at getting a new one but adjusting dims slightly .... as I would like to retain the great paddle ability but squeeze a touch more manouverability out of it. What would be the best dimmension to adjust to achieve this without affecting the paddle ability? Length?width?rocker?rail profile? as only needs a small tweak I don’t want to reinvent the wheel or anything just refine it a little bit

Honestly, any changes you make will be noticeable, I would stick with the same shape but look for suttle differences in the way the board is made:
1) Rails: I like hard rails past the fins, meaning the rail is cut at a 90 degree angle rather than rounded up, and I usually look for them to continue past the fins, they usually end the hard rails at the fins. It will have better hold on seep waves.
2) Tail: Squash is usually the best for performance (I usually go with a thumbnail since I'm a bigger guy), the way the squash is made makes a difference in the snappyness of the board. If the tail corners are over rounded you get more stability in the turn, and having sharper tail corners gives you a snappier feel, like it corner digs in.
3) Bottom rocker and concave: flatter boards usually paddle better, I would bet yours is pretty flat in the middle if you think it paddles great. . It probably has a single concave, you can tell if you put a ruler across the bottom and see how it curves under. If only one continuous concave, try a double concave, they are usuall better performance.

Hope that helps.

Parallel story: about 3 month ago I spider cracked my avizo carbon hollow surboard in 8ft waves. The shop said they could use carbon strips (the kind you use on the tails of shortboards) to repair the cracks and then wrapped it with a layer of fiberglass. It came out good , maybe not cosmetically but it works good, I just won't use it in heavy closeouts.. Here are pics of the repair:



To replace it, I needed something not too big for heavy days in Baja, I have bigger boards for bigger days but like to keep it shorter when I have to duckdive thick foam bombs. I dusted off a board I had just hanging at the office, a 7ft x 19 x 2.5, narrower and longer than the other. It worked great but the fins it had were too big, went down to DHD's and love it. So, sometimes longer and narrower is better, it's working out great in 8ft waves, here is a pick of it:

So how does that broken board perform compared to before the break?

oldmansurfer wrote:So how does that broken board perform compared to before the break?

So far no difference, just worried I will break it if I take it in big stuff again. I surfed it in head high closeouts in Baja today, caught waves fine. I think since it is hollow the additional strips of carbon and the single layer of fiberglass did not add much weight at all it still performs about the same. Just worried I will bust it again.