Surfing Waves

Just for background, I have a 6'5 step up I love, but also have a 6'8 step up I use for bigger days and for days when, well, when I'm tired (code word for hung over) or just plain lazy, I break it out and paddle half as hard, or big mushy days or... you get the idea.

I had a Sharpeye custom made 8 years ago and hung on to that thing forever. I just just had it recently re-made by Addict Surfboards (local San Diego shaper) because of a trip to Puerto Escondido where it tackled 9ft faces, was worried that the old board would break so had it made with carbon fiber reinforcements down the stringers. Had the shaper copy it spot on. The new board was just as good, but when I tried my buddy's epoxy it paddled better, though his did not compare in performance due to the different design.

So, I ordered the exact same specs from before but an inch longer, 6'9 x 2 5/8 x 20, thumb tail, single concave, , 5" nose rocker 1 1/2" tail rocker but flatter mid rocker, thumb tail, hard rails past the middle, But this time using a light weight epoxy blank wrapped with carbon fiber to make it super light and super durable.

So, epoxy should float more thus paddle better, and lighter will be easier to kick around, though when I surfed bigger waves I was more worried about survival than turning but it should help with smaller waves. Will post pics later.

A board came up for sale here 2nd hand a couple of months ago that I picked up that is somewhat similar I think to what you're making/same kind of application. I've ridden it several times and works a treat; easy to paddle which is good for the longer paddle outs as well as getting in, really strong/durable (tuflite) and easy to ride - good in bigger surf for my confidence. Used it in smaller waves (shoulder to head high) and went well though didn't fit as well as a smaller board into the wave. It's a Byrne Easyrider 7 'x 20 1/2" x3"; a little bigger than yours but then again I'm a little bigger too (90kg).

Big H wrote:A board came up for sale here 2nd hand a couple of months ago that I picked up that is somewhat similar I think to what you're making/same kind of application. I've ridden it several times and works a treat; easy to paddle which is good for the longer paddle outs as well as getting in, really strong/durable (tuflite) and easy to ride - good in bigger surf for my confidence. Used it in smaller waves (shoulder to head high) and went well though didn't fit as well as a smaller board into the wave. It's a Byrne Easyrider 7 'x 20 1/2" x3"; a little bigger than yours but then again I'm a little bigger too (90kg).

Beautiful gun for beautiful waves in bali

Here is my current board. To make it indestructible, I had it double glassed and added carbon fiber strips down the middle and near the tailpad. However, this made it heavier, thus the new one:

It's weird how boards always look wider when you look at it from the bottom rather than the top

Doesn't look 6'9. - seems shorter

IB_Surfer wrote:Here is my current board. To make it indestructible, I had it double glassed and added carbon fiber strips down the middle and near the tailpad. However, this made it heavier, thus the new one:

Ahahaha sounds like a tank of a surfboard, hey heavier isn't always bad, it'll be great when it's strong offshore, your board won't lift off like an airplane and you go over the falls

That thing looks sweet! What was your glassing schedule? Does double mean 8+8/8?

kookextraordinaire wrote:That thing looks sweet! What was your glassing schedule? Does double mean 8+8/8?

6/4 top 4/4bottom

But the graphite down the middle means more resin to even it out, or else you would feel a bump where the graphite is at.

The shaper sent me this pick, the board already wrapped but before the hotcoat and still needed the acrylic finish. BTW I chose acrylic because it's lighter but the board looks glossy

She's finally done!

Good looking board! Hopefully the new stick will attract some swell here in socal!

IB_Surfer wrote:She's finally done!

That's a beauty! Gonne be painful to wax it..

Tudeo wrote:

IB_Surfer wrote:She's finally done!

That's a beauty! Gonne be painful to wax it..

I dunno about you, but I loooove waxing a new board

Speaking of new boards, I just got pictures from my shaper yesterday, I'm picking this baby up in 2 weeks.
It's 5'10 and 20" wide, I carefully explained what I wanted, I like foam near the nose you can probably tell it's a bit rounded and fuller, also asked for a rounded tail so I get the best of both worlds because I'm planning on riding it in small and big surf 8ft max.
This board is going to be so much easier to manoeuvre than my current board, it's a complete boat I need to use a lot of muscle to turn it because it's really wide and thick

Just a short note: I bought back my 6'8 step up, the guy that I sold it to put on weight and needs an even bigger one. Been riding both.

Turns out that one one inch longer and epoxy makes a huge difference in the way the ride. The 6'9 (black) epoxy catches waves way easier. The 6'8 (white) seems to cut better. Both ride about the same down the wave face and both are a blast.