waikikikichan wrote:The more you can turn or open your chest to the wave, the more twist and torque you can make.
This is the most important element I think. Just to add, keep your arms at both sides of your rails. I (i'm a regular) still make the backside mistake to bring my left arm parallel to my right arm pointing to the beach. I then have to stretch my neck to see the wave face.
Sometimes I'm aware of this and I keep my inside arm to the left of the left rail, that makes the backside ride so much more easy.
When you push up from
your hands during popup, you can stay in a low position keeping your fingers touching the deck, and be aware to keep your arms to the sides.
Thanks for the tip on foot positioning waikikikichan! Next time I will try to get some awareness of the position of my feet, to see if I should 'turn back the time' a bit.
Strangely I do better backside on critical waves, I then stay low and hold my right rail with my right hand to push the left rail firmly in the wave face during takeoff.. My chest is then pointed forward as it should be.
But it is a game of repeating and repeating and trying to build awareness of your body's position. But the intensity of the moment and the excitement that creates makes the learning process slow (vallen en opstaan). But for me that's part of the fun.