Surfing Waves

Good day pple

I was used to riding a 7'2ft board but I decided to try something smaller (6'6ft),because I want to adjust myself to riding a short board.
I realized the short board needs more paddle power but that is not a problem.My main problem is that my take off is a bit slow and sometimes the wave suddenly overtakes (and sometimes slams me).

One of my friends told me that I must take off when the wave is just beginning to break (before it gets hollow) and he said the pop up will be easier on that section.

I know lots of practice is needed but any more tips on making a faster pop up?? I wanna perfect my take off on my new shorter board.You advice is highly appreciated.

What you need to work on is timing and positioning........Honest advice? Stick to the longer board until your pop up is a non issue and you're not wondering about the shape of the wave when you take off................different waves, different tides at the same wave, larger and shorter periods at the same break are all different....sometimes you might be taking off on a fatty that you have ages to plank, coast then pop up on....other times you might be trying to break one off under the lip and your pop up has to be quick, real quick...........my advice is to keep working out taking off deeper and steeper, early and late until the pop up something that you don't even consider anymore and you "get" that the shape of the wave for an ideal take off is a wave that is surfable regardless of being fat, hollow, on or offshore, long or short period.




.....or you can just watch where better surfers than you on similar boards as the one you are on that day take off and paddle to the same spot....

Thanks. I will need to focus on my timing and correct position before taking off.

ashdgee wrote:I realized the short board needs more paddle power but that is not a problem.
My main problem is that my take off is a bit slow and sometimes the wave suddenly overtakes (and sometimes slams me).

I don't get what you mean ? First you say your paddling is not a problem. Then in the next sentence you say your take off is slow. Do you mean to say the action to get to your feet is your "take off" ? If you paddle faster, wouldn't you be able to get on the wave earlier and to your feet quicker ?

ashdgee wrote:One of my friends told me that I must take off when the wave is just beginning to break (before it gets hollow) and he said the pop up will be easier on that section.

The smaller the board you get, the further in you need to catch the wave. Where it's steeper and quicker. With a longer board, you can "get on" earlier BEFORE the wave breaks. Shortboards catch AS the wave breaks. You are not ready to be on a short(er) board.

I meant to say I'm slow to get on to my feet

ashdgee wrote:I meant to say I'm slow to get on to my feet

And why is that ? Do you have a physical impairment ? Are you over-weight ? Did you injure your back ?

What reasons are there that make you slow to get to your feet compared to all your surf buddies that get to their feet quickly ?

DId you have the same issue with your popup on your 7'2? If so, maybe it wasn't the right time to get a shorter board when you're still working the fundamentals. I say leave the 6'6 at home for now and work a bit more on your 7'2, then transition back down after you've locked in your popup.

Big H wrote:What you need to work on is timing and positioning.

Great advice!

Last weekend, I surfed Dillon Beach at 4 feet and 6 seconds. I could barely fit my longboard between the waves but it was fun figuring out how to ride - get up fast and turn fast! I hung out with a six foot guy riding a 5'11" fish and it was amazing to watch him ride. He waited for the wave to get very steep, then KICKED as hard as he paddled and popped up with the "chicken wing."

My advice is going for an angled take off, it gives you an extra second to get to your feet since you're slowly going down the face instead of having a steep drop, practice it on your longer board first then try your new one out when you got a hang of it.

They are trying to figure out if you need to work on your popping up technique . So I guess first things first. You need to have good technique then you need strength (both arm and core strength) and flexibility . Then you need to practice and practice and practice. So first practice your form and get good technique to popup then work on speed. Theoretically you can do all that with your other board. Once you get it down then go to the smaller board.

Shorter boards are harder to popup until you get used to it since you can't use toes. Practice that on land as well as following all the good advice mentioned above.

How often do you surf? If you cannot surf regularly, it will help you to practice your pop up at home. 10 popups a day help pearling go away

Oldie wrote:How often do you surf? If you cannot surf regularly, it will help you to practice your pop up at home. 10 popups a day help pearling go away

Hard to practise the shortboard popup on dry land imo, I tried all I could, from elevated platforms to taking out my fins, my best advice is to learn from trial and error in the water since your technique cannot be tested on dry land because the ground doesn't suddenly become steep or anything, so go out to your break on a small day like 3ft and go get tossed around because that's how everyone learns
PS: your first 4 sessions wear a wetsuit or something that covers your knees, trust me on this one, I banged up my knees a crap load learning to take off on my shorter board

Also I literally surfed a 7'2 before buying my 6'6 so my advice could probably work for you.

Move your hands further down toward your hips. It makes the pop up much quicker. Even try the right hand lower down than the left (if a natural), it helps you with the 'twist' (gettin by your feet side on) at the same time as popping up

Find the Sweetspot of the wave (by timing and positioning), as by some kind of magic you'll be on your feet without knowing how you did it..

BoMan wrote:

Big H wrote:What you need to work on is timing and positioning.

Great advice!

Last weekend, I surfed Dillon Beach at 4 feet and 6 seconds. I could barely fit my longboard between the waves but it was fun figuring out how to ride - get up fast and turn fast! I hung out with a six foot guy riding a 5'11" fish and it was amazing to watch him ride. He waited for the wave to get very steep, then KICKED as hard as he paddled and popped up with the "chicken wing."

Hi BoMan, can you eloborate about the Chicken Wing please ?