by dtc » Wed Nov 12, 2014 1:01 am
The board isn't to small for your body size; its probably too small for your skill size...
The reason the waves go underneath you is that your positioning isn't right and your paddling speed/skill may also not be correct. This is, in part, why longboards are easier - you can be more out of position or paddle slower or get your timing wrong and still catch the wave. With a shortboard, if you are out of position only a little bit or you paddle at the wrong time or you don't paddle fast enough, then you will miss the wave. So its a matter of skill/experience teaching you positioning and timing.
Unfortunately with a shortboard, if you end up missing too many waves - because you don't have that level of skill - then you cant develop the skills because you are missing too many waves... its all circular I guess.
If you put your knee on the back and it sinks, then you are slowing the board down and you make the problem worse.
Your first step is to stop putting your knee on the board when you pop up. There is no need to, so fix this problem. Practice out of the water, practice in white water. Get rid of the use of your knee.
If you simply cant, then you wont be able to use the shortboard, unfortunately. You might get away with a knee pop up on a much bigger board, say closer to 7ft6 at your weight (or longer). But on a shortboard it wont happen.
Secondly, you either have to practice and practice to get your positioning and timing right to catch waves (including watching where other people are, when they start paddling and improving your paddle fitness and speed), keeping in mind that it may take you quite a while to get these skills; or get a bigger board and get the skills faster then move back to the shortboard. Not that a bigger board overcomes the need to practice, but the mistakes don't necessarily result in the same problems.
To be brutally honest, you are much better off ditching the shortboard for a longer board and using the longer board for 6 months or a year. But if you only have the shortboard, you need to fix your pop up and then practice and practice, keeping in mind that you may have a long and somewhat frustrating period until you are picked up the necessary skills. You will pick them up, most people do - but it may take a while