Surfing Waves

whats up yall, so its been 2weeks into my 6'4 t&c , no complaints about it except some of the waves are brutal that i tried to catch, i ended up crashing hard but its all fun and good, i did catch some and others other just crazy when i do get on one i fk up and push the front down, causing me dive down forward into the water as the wave is crashing over me,

anyway i been hearing allot of people saying im riding the wrong board, some are saying i should be on a 6'6, and some are saying its to big for me and i should be on a 6,

this is my first surfboard, so i dunno is everyone at the beach a critic?

i am interest in this particular board i noticed allot of surfers having, its a shortboard almost like a skimboard, and i barely see them paddle for a wave, as soon as it starts to form they do atleast one stroke of paddling or just pop up immediately on that wave forming, what kid of shortboard is that

mrlegion1983 wrote: i am interest in this particular board i noticed allot of surfers having, its a shortboard almost like a skimboard, and i barely see them paddle for a wave, as soon as it starts to form they do atleast one stroke of paddling or just pop up immediately on that wave forming, what kid of shortboard is that

Thats a shortboard ridden by someone with many years experience in surfing...

To do a one paddle wave, you need to be in exactly the right place (very little margin for error - like 2ft to far in or out and it doesnt work) and start paddling at exactly the right time and be able to pop up almost immediately (late drop). It takes a lot of experience to be able to do all three at the same time. And the board doesnt really matter, there are people who can do this on 9ft longboards

As the board doesnt matter, you can certainly give it a go with your board if you want to try it out.

Yep. This usually also involved a technique where the surfer slides back on their board and sinks it into the wave at just the precise second, and uses the waves internal energy to help them catch it. Messing any part of this up usually results in a trip over the falls or the wave breaking right on top of you. Some make it look like a really easy way to catch a wave with minimal effort, but it's very far from easy.

yumyumyellow wrote:This usually also involved a technique where the surfer slides back on their board and sinks it into the wave at just the precise second, and uses the waves internal energy to help them catch it. Messing any part of this up usually results in a trip over the falls or the wave breaking right on top of you. Some make it look like a really easy way to catch a wave with minimal effort, but it's very far from easy.

Bit like this :

right one, left one... if it feels right ride it