Surfing Waves

Hi guys,

I will get a local shaped short board for slightly bigger waves.

here is some info about my current set up:

- 33 years
- have been surfing for 12 years.
- 78-80KG changing
- 188cm so around 6'2

my current board is a:

JS Blackbox 6'0 - 20 - 21/2 - according to JS 31.4LT (could surf it 5´`10 or 5`11)

The Blackbox is a very good board. It is fun to surf in 1-4ft surf. However, it lacks control and hold in bigger (5-6ft) or steeper surf. I get the feeling that the rails do not give me a good hold in steeper waves.

The new board can overlap with the blackbox in the 2-4ft range but should hold in slightly bigger/steeper conditions.

Looks like it will be a 6`2, 19 1/4, 2 3/8 around 29.8LT, rounded pin tail, single to double concave with a little bit vee in the back (local shaped). This is my first custom made.

hope you can help me with my questions:

1.) My concern is at the moment that the new board could be harder to turn due to the extra length in medium surf. But at the same I know that I need the length for bigger waves. Have bad memories surfing my first 6`6 shortboard....very hard to turn. Could I go lower in volume?

2.) My shaper recommended to glass the board 2 x 4oz deck and 4 oz bottom. He said that my current board has very few pressure dents (should be same glassing). What do you guys think? Go Maybe 4oz + 6oz deck and 4 oz bottom for more durability. Have no clue about glassing!!!!

Cheers guys

Should be a good board the vee will aid turning, see if your shaper has a similar board you can try. If the shaper knows your surfing ,he is the guy to go to! The rounded pin is a great turning shape too!

BTW the extra raillength will do the steeper bigger waves better and you will have more power to put to the turn...... In the changeover size of surf, check and apply board according to power!

6'2 will be fine, i weigh 92kg and use a 6'2 x 20 x 2 1/2 for normal days, 6'5 x 19 1/2 x 2 1/2 for bigger days. The 6'5 is almost as nimble as my 6'2, so you'll like the new board. I did use a 2 3/8, and could surf it fine, but found that I sunk it too much to paddle it easy, so it took more effort to paddle out to the lineup, so got rid of it, but I could have just gotten used to it.

Believe it or not, I also use a 6'8 x 20 x 2 5/8, I use it on mushy big days, like when I surf big surf during high tide. I also use it on small days when I don't want to use my longboard or fish, and I've had it out on double overhead days when it's crowded, the extra volume makes it easier to win paddle wars.

By the way, I also bought a gun, for those HUGE days, but I only use it about 4 times a year LOL

Hi guys

Thanks for the help. Much appreciated.

Any thoughts on the glassing

Cheers

Depends on what your want and what your surf like.

should be more durable than your standard board from shop X. I do not have many big pressure dents on my deck. Have sometimes more problems with cracks on my rails...more in the back

hope this helps

I'm heavier so I usually go for a heavier glass job. I went 6+4+6 with carbon fiber tail patches. Check my posts in the quiver section. The next board I'm getting is triple six with a 3/4 carbon fishnet patch

mine is 6oz bottom, 4+4 top. If you plan to surf big waves you don't want to snap it. I bought a cheap import step up and snapped it the first time the surf got over 6ft, I never bought another board that was not custom shaped since then.

So i might be just fine with 4x4 4.

Is there anything like 5x4 4 or is the next step 6oz

You can, of course, go 6+4, or say 6oz all over and then put 4oz only on high pressure points (eg down the middle of the deck and over the fins, but not over the nose). Or 4+4 plus another layer over the fins, where the rear foot goes.

My board is 6+4 with 6oz bottom plus an extra layer over the fin boxes, which I like. But its a bigger board (7ft4). Seems pretty bulletproof.

Underglassing is - in my view - a bigger problem then 'over glassing'. Sure the boards feel light with a 4oz glass, but they last about 5 sessions before there are dints and holes and all sorts of things. If you are into airs and really acrobatic manouveres, then weight is an issue. But otherwise the extra weight I'm not sure makes a real difference in performance, but does in longevity

A few years ago I went to the Becker surf shop, all shortboards they had where 4oz top and 4oz bottom. As a 200lb shortboarder I asked if they sold one for my weight, they said that is the right board for me. That the new design is to make them as light as possible, and that good surfers don't mind snapping a board as long as they are getting optimal performance. I ended up ordering one custom from them, with a 4/4 top, not sure if I prescribe with "breakable" surfboards.

your shaper really should makes decision that you the higher level... explain to him/her what you want this for/where/be sincere concerning people... he/she is going to do people extremely pleased, go to see jowls inside woolacombe. we promise you will find what you want, although also the thing you need.