Surfing Waves

I'm looking to get a new shortboard, so I'm trying to understand my gear better from a technical/scientific point of view. Currently, I surf a 5'8 JS Industries Nitro (insert photo here). It's amazing in small waves, but anything over 3 foot, means late take-offs, babying turns, and a general lack of stability.

I'm just wondering what it is specifically about the shape, contours that make it hard to ride in bigger waves. It more or less has the same volume as a 5'11 prodigy (insert photo here), but that board is supposed to be good in waves well overhead. Is it the length? It's only a couple of inches?

How much do you weigh? And what fins you using (not just fcs or futures, what type)?

I'm 5'9, 165 lbs. I've been using Mick Fanning's signature fcs DHD-3 fins, which are pretty large, so should add some stability.

Hi guys
I m 190cm tall and 90 kg
I have a 6'4 19 1/2 2 3/4
And is my normal board
And i want to use the same measures in a 6'6 or 6'8
Anyone to help and tell me if it ll work?
Tks
Bolha

In terms of your measurements the longer boards will have a different rail profile and so slightly different characteristics in surfing talk to your shaper about what you want in the boards performance.
Boards are not just variance in measure three measurement it is the relationship between those measurement With only considering three measurement it could be a 6'4'' by 19" rectangle that is almost3" thick.

So rail shape, board profile, bottom curve, rocker as a whole and nose and tail concaves, flyers , fish tail swallow tail, pin, rounded pin square tail squash tail.
Why are you thinking of changing from your normal board? That probably is the first question not the last Oh and what sort of waves a do you surf?

Here's some more thoughts on a similar subject
viewtopic.php?f=20&t=21532

Dear
Thank u
Actually i just want a board a litle bigger
In case the waves get bigger
For me up to 9ft
I ve been surfing for 35 years
But never too much interested in theory..
That s why
Anyway , i think my answer is
I need a board in case the waves get bigger .
I m going to Maldives
Again, tks

OK Bolha, that makes it simple, a little more length like you are thinking about will be great........ look at maybe an inch wider so say 21 that will help extend the rail line to a similar curve the volume will alos increas which should make an easier paddler provided the nose rocker is not too great.

Most guys find their standard board a particularly a narrow shape would handle Maldives well ( it'd be a long wall runner) if you have circle of friends or are near a surf shop try a few boards that might fit your ideas see if one sings to you.

Let us know how you go

Thank u very much
I ll try it and let s see
Best rgds
Bolha

mawzy wrote:I'm 5'9, 165 lbs. I've been using Mick Fanning's signature fcs DHD-3 fins, which are pretty large, so should add some stability.

Sorry for the late reply, lost track of this thread.

BTW: I use DHD's on my thruster too, good choice.

The board outline and rocker make a big difference, as does the length. If you can't get into waves on a 5'8 board it's the length and size. At 165lbs you are pushing what you can handle, unless you are a pro you would not be using that size on an overhead day.

Most of us use set-ups on larger days. For you a step up would be around 6'1 to 6'2. For me at 200lbs my step ups are 6'6 and 6'8. Also, my set ups are narrower than my small wave boards.

So, same volume does not mean same performance. You need a different template. JS makes some good boards made for bigger days, look up their web site.

Guys
Single or double Concave?
Tks
Bolha

I like single to double

jaffa1949 wrote:I like single to double

Believe it or not, my shaper always suggest single to double concave on most boards unless you ask for something else, and for bigger boards (fishes, funboards...) same but with a slight V at the tail. He'll shape you whatever you want, but that's what he prefers.

So yea, single to double

Tks guys !!
Bolha