Need surfboard recommendation

[avillax]

Hi, here's the deal: I've been surfing intensively for 2 years, I began with a 6'7 egg and was a sweet learning experience, then I moved to a 6'3 Al merrick flyer: sweetest transition ever, I love the board and I'm planning to keep it.

Why I love the Flyer: It is a good wave catcher, good paddler, easy to stand, never pearls and can manage mushy to overhead waves.

What I don't like about it: too much foam makes it hard to duck dive incoming waves, I mean I can, but it feels like too much resistance and with big waves I don't feel confident on duck diving with it and I just bail out. Also here in San Diego, California some beach breaks have waves pulsing extremely fast one after the other, and the resistance it offers make me think it slows me down getting to the break.

So I had been thinking about going shortboarding, so I had a recent trip to Sayulita, Mexico, and rented a 6'2 Short board, it was a Mexican brand called San Miguel which makes really bad boards honestly. So the first thing I noticed was the lack of foam which is normal in short boards, so I lost paddling power, also it wasn't a good small wave catcher BUT this thing would slice through incoming waves like they were butter when duck diving. I liked that, I thought I could give that a good use on the walled up days of fast pulsing waves of San Diego.

In terms of standing on the thing and maneuvering, I found out it wasn't hard on a short board actually.

So I decided I wanted to go short and light and still be able to catch small and big waves. I thought the best option was a board called "The Disco" by sharp eye. Here in San Diego everyone has one, they say it's the best board for San Diego waves, they say they even use it for overhead without problem since it's a favorite board, they love it, etc.

So I bought an used 5'8 Sharp eye Disco, that size is supposed to be really good for this board, I'm 5'10 and weight 155 lbs.

Sharp Eye Disco Results: paddling with this thing was difficult, it didn't have as much foam as my 6'3 flyer, which was expected and wanted, but that wasn't the issue. The issue was that the damn thing was so small that it was just slippery, it was better at duck diving than the flyer, not still as good as the shortboard I used in Mexico. But overall it was hard to get a grip on that thing, it had to do with the size.

Same thing when catching waves, it was a good wave catcher of small surf but it was also easy to slip away from me when paddling to catch the wave, not only that, but also it was extremely loose, the thing would just fly away like paper. And finally, it was easy to pearl with this board, even though it has a good rocker, it's too small, perhaps I haven't dialed it in yet but it's definitely not a board you can easily use on waves that are 5 feet and above. While I'm aware I'm an intermediate level surfer, I still didn't like this thing at all, I don't think I will ever adjust to use extremely small boards.

And so the question is, which board would you recommend for me?

This is what I need:
-wanting to jump into something with much less foam than the Al Merrick flyer
-slice through incoming waves easily to reach the break point and don't feel so much resistance
-Don't feel that if a big wave falls on me I have a truck attached to my foot.
-Something with a good take off, hard to pearl with

[IB_Surfer]

What are the rest of the dims on your 6'2 shortboard? You might just need to go narrower or skinnier and around a 6'0

[tony g]

I would try out a few different boards and see what works best for you. Check with some of the local surf shops near you and see which shops have a surfboard demo program. This way you can try the board before you buy, and make a wise purchase. Maybe try out the Channel Islands Fred Rubble model. Good luck!

[avillax]

I'll get the measurements of my flyer, don't have it right now. That Fred Rubble suggestions seems interesting, perhaps I just need to a swift transition to less foam. Perhaps even a shorter flyer would do, but it would just be too similar and we want to keep some variety for different puposes.

By the way, a plus in this board selection would be a board that is good for beach breaks.

[surfgoth]

we're the same height and weight. if i were you, id get a 5'6" fowler stoker v-machine.

https://www.facebook.com/pages/Stoker-V-Machine/317597478257790

[avillax]

After my experience with the 5'8 I have developed an aversion to small boards, I just didn't like the feel of not having much length, found out is easy to pearl with them. I'm about to close a deal for a 5'10 flyer tuflite, pretty much the same board but my same height and tuflite, could be interesting. I just think a flyer is a must board to have.

Then I will just sell the 6'3 flyer and that's where it gets interesting, what to get then? I just want to feel safe when going big, like having a 6' shortboard easy to ride and take off, similar to a flyer, but more apt for big, that won't just skyrocket with big waves like the disco does, seriously the disco seems 100% small wave board, it's just to crazy to control. My current 6'3 does handle 7 feet still pretty good.

[pbgstar_22]

If you've picked up that 5'10" flyer, how's it working for you? Tuflite epoxys are much more buoyant than PU, so duck diving may be similar to your original flyer.

A few things that cross my mind are the conditions and type of wave that you're surfing. I know you said San Diego, but that can mean anything from The cliffs to tamarack and everything in between. Obviously you'd be surfing something with more rocker for steeper/faster walled bigger conditions while a flattened rocker and more foam will enhance your groveling sessions amongst other features. Living on tamarack I am 20 minutes from a mix of waves with different personalities and I've looked for that "quiver killer" as well and have found my neck beard to be a perfect daily driver.

I am 5'10" and 150lbs and I ride mine 5'9"x19-5/8x2-7/16 (just under 30L. Of volume) slightly thinner than the stock model with a smaller thumb tail for more hold in cleaner conditions. It rips in 2ft la jolla and still holds in plus-sized Coronado or blacks. The nose is generous enough to help with late drops yet still channels enough water to get you in the small stuff which should minimize pearling yet maximize your small wave count.

Given your "slipping" situation in bigger conditions I wouldn't overlook your fin setup too much. Having the right or wrong fins can make or break your session. If you we're surfing a smaller template on larger days, your chances of holding your turns are going to go down. For example, on micro days I'll surf futures Yu quad on the front fins which has 13.5" area X 4.5" tall and F4 quad rear fins at 3.75" tall. Completely geared towards generating speed.

Conversely, on heavier days I wouldn't fathom this setup because it may cause the more to slide and "skip". So I ride the PS thruster with 17" area, more rake, more tip, and large base. This fin helps with hold when the conditions are more powerful. It keeps the board glued to the face and generates a lot of down the line speed.

So basically I ride 1 sub-six foot board in all conditions. It takes a few sessions to transition into a new board, but remember there are other aspects that go into it like skill level and experience. I went through an extensive email conversation with Channel Islands before I ordered my board and I'd highly recommend you do the same. As long as you're honest, any local shaper will cut you a board that is suited to your needs and conditions. It was a huge help for me and now I have the perfect quiver killer/travel board. Hope this helps. Cheers

[esonscar]

All I can say is I rip on my 'board and when I sit on it 'bare skin' my nipples are just above the water line.

EDIT: That's my 'board in my avatar.