Surfing Waves

Last Saturday I went surfing with my daugther and her 20yr old friends. The surf was about waist to chest high. During the session one of her friends wanted to try my new mini simmons so we traded boards.

His was 5'10 x 18 3/4 x 1 3/4. At 46yrs old and 200lbs I was content with just hanging around since, honestly, I am HUGE for this size board. But then a set came, I missed the three waves cause I could not generate enough speed (and sunk it, honestly ) but I was able to paddle into the fourth wave and ride it, cutbacks and everything.

So, the lesson here is that it's more about ability than anything else. I would still not get a board that size, I don't want to catch 1 of ever 4 waves, but it's good to know that if I wanted to push myself I could.

Maybe it will be my new year's resolution to loose enough weight to ride a shortboard under 6ft. Anyway, food for thought...

Good on you teacher.

themathteacher wrote:So, the lesson here is that it's more about ability than anything else.

Totally agree with that. It's what I've always believed, especially after I saw a video clip of Kelly Slater riding a table . lol

I think that this really highlights the need to have a suitable board for your skill level, size, fitness etc. 1 in 4 waves is no good, that would get really frustrating very quickly.
Still, once in a while it would be good for your fitness - all that extra paddling.

(great use of the smiley!)

You've done the maths and you know it's challenging, as have I at 200lbs also.
I find my wave quota drops to almost one one or two in a session and I have to organise myself for a severe late takeoff to get the wave speed to surf but once up, all my short boarding skills are still there.
I have however been built like a rugby front row forward since teen years( in fact I was and a good one) and so I have surfed nothing shorter than 6ft. Still can with volume.
But surfing for me is being able to do what I want to do on the wave easily so length is it for me. But isn't it fun to crank a shorty occasionally

Oh and about 46 I've been that now for at least 16 years, so keep on surfing .

jaffa1949 wrote:You've done the maths and you know it's challenging, as have I at 200lbs also.
I find my wave quota drops to almost one one or two in a session and I have to organise myself for a severe late takeoff to get the wave speed to surf but once up, all my short boarding skills are still there.
I have however been built like a rugby front row forward since teen years( in fact I was and a good one) and so I have surfed nothing shorter than 6ft. Still can with volume.
But surfing for me is being able to do what I want to do on the wave easily so length is it for me. But isn't it fun to crank a shorty occasionally

Oh and about 46 I've been that now for at least 16 years, so keep on surfing .

Totally agree!

My disc is 6'1 but thick and wide and my mini simmons is 5'10" even thicker and wider. I still prefer my shorboard longer, 6'5", though I can surf a shorter one but I average 5 to 10 wave+ per session, unless completely packed.

I surfed OB last Sunday, there must have been 20 dudes just by the pier, and at leat 50 in the water, and I still managed to snag at least a half doze waves or more, not counting the others I tried but would have killed someone if I had taken off LOL

The one thing I forgot to add in my essay was the parable of the Scientist and the Bee.
Science as you know has shown that according to all projections, data and anything else aerodynamic, the bee should not be able to fly however the bee has no knowledge of this and flaps its wings and so flies. Moral of the story; sometimes effort can over come predictions.
Rather like older bigger men on short boards.
Final aside to the Bee eventually the rigour of the effort of flying fatigues the structures of the bee wings and they die sad but true
I enjoy seeing your advice for the crew out there!