Surfing Waves

Hi everyone. I'm new here.

I'm 5'9", 165lbs, 24 years old and still fit. I'm from Thailand, living in Australia where my local surf is below-average/average quality with 1-3ft height normally. I started to surf one year ago and nearly all the time I've been surfing my dear old 6'4 standard shortboard. I learned on this board so I'm very used to it. I surf at least 2.5-3 hours nearly everyday and I'd say I'm an intermediate. I like my board, though I feel that it's not agile enough for my local wave size. So, after researching and thinking about it for a while, yesterday I bought a new board. It's kind of a hybrid shortboard/fish and the length is... 5'10 . Yeah, there's a big gap but it's still a bit taller than me and I am willing to ride it!

Here is the picture.

My new board - 5'10, 19"3/8, 2"1/4 and my old board - 6'4, 18"3/4, 2"1/2

This morning I gave it a try and I only struggled sooooo hard just to catch my first wave. I thought catching small waves on my 6'4 was already difficult, but this one is even more difficult! Normally I see a lot of surfers with short hybrid fish boards catching all the waves and even more easily, while I always have to paddle my 6'4 like there's a shark behind me just to get one. But now I have this hybrid and it's not as I thought . I paddled so hard and waves just passed under me and I knew that if I was using my old board I would have caught all of them.

Do I need to catch waves a bit more late for the right timing? I know that with some length gone I can't paddle as fast as before, but I feel that this new board gives me the same or even more buoyancy (I can feel it when I duck dive) and at least I'm glad I don't sink. Do you have any tips for me? I'm ready to put more effort in paddling if that's what I need.

Thanks so much for reading!
Jak

Your new board looks like more of a wider hybrid board, so I think the problem is that you are lying too far back on it, and thus stalling a bit while paddling. There is volume in the nose so you should be able to shimmy up the board a bit and still avoid nosediving.


I had the opposite problem, I went from a big thruster "fish" (6'4) to a longer shortboard (6'11). Because I was used to the shorter fish I started off lying too far forward on the shortboard and would nosedive really often, so I adjusted my stance to what I thought was too far back, and caught waves fine without nosediving.

Your new board has a flatter rocker, so I think you need to focus on getting the nose of it as close to the water as possible while paddling.

Rickyroughneck wrote:Your new board looks like more of a wider hybrid board, so I think the problem is that you are lying too far back on it, and thus stalling a bit while paddling. There is volume in the nose so you should be able to shimmy up the board a bit and still avoid nosediving.


I had the opposite problem, I went from a big thruster "fish" (6'4) to a longer shortboard (6'11). Because I was used to the shorter fish I started off lying too far forward on the shortboard and would nosedive really often, so I adjusted my stance to what I thought was too far back, and caught waves fine without nosediving.

Your new board has a flatter rocker, so I think you need to focus on getting the nose of it as close to the water as possible while paddling.

Thanks so much. I tried lying more forwards today but it didn't work well. The nose got buried in the wave face often. Guess I have to arch my back more. But I'm sure there must be a way to surf this 5'10 since many advanced and pro surfers do it all the time and they are human like I am. I think the problem is that I'm just very very used to my 6'4 and when I surf this 5'10 I tend to lie far back on it (to see the same length of my board under my body). I just need to use it more and more.

If anyone has any other tips please do tell.

There's always an adjustment period when transitioning to new equipment. I'd give it a 6 or 7 sessions before you seriously decide something it wrong. I think it's unusual to change your board completely and not struggle at least at first.

surf doc wrote:There's always an adjustment period when transitioning to new equipment. I'd give it a 6 or 7 sessions before you seriously decide something it wrong. I think it's unusual to change your board completely and not struggle at least at first.

You're absolutely right. Should have hired it first. I just couldn't find a good one to try because there are two local shops around here and they only have big ones. But today I went out with it in a terrible condition and still got some waves. Now I think I've lost speed when paddling but in return gained more speed when riding it. Just need to wait for a big day.

what kind of fins you got on your board?

themathteacher wrote:what kind of fins you got on your board?

Hi. They look like a normal thruster.

jaktequila wrote:

Rickyroughneck wrote:Your new board looks like more of a wider hybrid board, so I think the problem is that you are lying too far back on it, and thus stalling a bit while paddling. There is volume in the nose so you should be able to shimmy up the board a bit and still avoid nosediving.


I had the opposite problem, I went from a big thruster "fish" (6'4) to a longer shortboard (6'11). Because I was used to the shorter fish I started off lying too far forward on the shortboard and would nosedive really often, so I adjusted my stance to what I thought was too far back, and caught waves fine without nosediving.

Your new board has a flatter rocker, so I think you need to focus on getting the nose of it as close to the water as possible while paddling.

Thanks so much. I tried lying more forwards today but it didn't work well. The nose got buried in the wave face often. Guess I have to arch my back more. But I'm sure there must be a way to surf this 5'10 since many advanced and pro surfers do it all the time and they are human like I am. I think the problem is that I'm just very very used to my 6'4 and when I surf this 5'10 I tend to lie far back on it (to see the same length of my board under my body). I just need to use it more and more.

If anyone has any other tips please do tell.

Sorry to hear that. Keep experimenting, you are definitely right about arching the back, good to know you are starting to catch some waves too- keep at it!

Look at the base of the fin, are they M7, FAM? What does it say?

themathteacher wrote:Look at the base of the fin, are they M7, FAM? What does it say?

Sadly there's nothing written on them. But my old board has FCS G3's on the right and left. I broke the back fin so I just replaced it with one with no brand.


And thank you everyone for your replies. It's been a week and now I know what's exactly my problem. After this morning session, I find that when catching a wave, I don't have the same speed while gliding down the wave face like I do on my 6'4. It requires my several extra paddles or I'll end up taking off without much speed and the wave goes without me. Is this a common problem because the board is shorter?

And do you think I... sink ?

ok, this might seem like a silly experiment, but try your G3's on the new board.

If it's what I am thinking, whoever sold you the board had M7's on it, and they really drag. I always recommend slightly smaller fins if you aren't getting enough paddle out of your board.

Another experiment, to see if it's the fins or not, take off the center fin and try it as a twin fin. If you can catch waves easier then you need smaller fins, if it feels the same then it mean you just need more practice, but you'll know for sure.

2nd themathteachers reply, smaller fins might help. But also shorter boards have less plane speed, so you may find it a bit harder to get enough speed to catch a wave. To be honest though, at 24, surfing as often as you do, it shouldn't be long before your paddle strength and technique adjusts to the new board.

However, if after a while you are still getting nowhere there is the rare possibility that you and the board just don't get along, but eliminate all other options first. Always takes me a long time to adjust to a new board.

garbarrage wrote:2nd themathteachers reply, smaller fins might help. But also shorter boards have less plane speed, so you may find it a bit harder to get enough speed to catch a wave. To be honest though, at 24, surfing as often as you do, it shouldn't be long before your paddle strength and technique adjusts to the new board.

However, if after a while you are still getting nowhere there is the rare possibility that you and the board just don't get along, but eliminate all other options first. Always takes me a long time to adjust to a new board.

garbarrage wrote:2nd themathteachers reply, smaller fins might help. But also shorter boards have less plane speed, so you may find it a bit harder to get enough speed to catch a wave. To be honest though, at 24, surfing as often as you do, it shouldn't be long before your paddle strength and technique adjusts to the new board.

However, if after a while you are still getting nowhere there is the rare possibility that you and the board just don't get along, but eliminate all other options first. Always takes me a long time to adjust to a new board.

Hello again. Now I'm back with the result!

themathteacher and garbarrage, you two are absolutely right about the fins. I replaced the big fins that came with the board with a new set of FCS M3 and now I am fast again . I even put those big ones back just to make sure. This morning we had a clean head high break (after 2 weeks of c***) so I really got to try my new board with new fins and it worked fine!

By the way, after a few hours I met friend by chance who doesn't surf very often and uses a Cult shortboard - 6'0 x 19' x 2'5/16 with the same tail as mine (the guy is 69kg and about 175cm). We then tried each other's board. He seemed to like my board, saying that it was skatey. For me, I found that turning on his board is a lot easier than mine! Both speed turning and bottom turning. Not to mention catching a wave which is obviously easier. I can't believe a thinner and narrower board with 2 inches longer suits me well. If only I met this guy before I bought mine...

Anyway, thanks again everyone. I learned a lot from buying my first shorter shortboard. Guess I will push on for a while and hopefully trade it later.

Your new board looks thinner than your old board. You'll have to position your body weight by arching your back as much as you are able so shifting your weight to the rear, then actually lying down to shift your body weight forward towards the nose - all whilst paddling for the wave. It will take some getting used to as the back arch needs to be almost painful as you begin to do it for the first few sessions. There is also the feel of the wave too, you'll be paddling and adjusting your arch as you paddle down the face right up to the point you stand up.
It’s after all this back arching for trim newness on your short board that you will attune such that you'll be able to catch a wave by just a bob into the wave from sitting, using the arch just for that split second trim to get the drop.
Have fun and keep us posted.

esonscar wrote::arrow: Your new board looks thinner than your old board. You'll have to position your body weight by arching your back as much as you are able so shifting your weight to the rear, then actually lying down to shift your body weight forward towards the nose - all whilst paddling for the wave. It will take some getting used to as the back arch needs to be almost painful as you begin to do it for the first few sessions. There is also the feel of the wave too, you'll be paddling and adjusting your arch as you paddle down the face right up to the point you stand up.
It’s after all this back arching for trim newness on your short board that you will attune such that you'll be able to catch a wave by just a bob into the wave from sitting, using the arch just for that split second trim to get the drop.
Have fun and keep us posted.

Thank you. Actually, I don't have a problem catching waves anymore. Changing fins did the trick! Now the old feeling is back. I'm even lying more on the back of it to give me some rocker in some bigger surf. But like I said in my previous reply, I'm thinking that a standard shortboard is the best choice for me and for now. Looks like this hybrid is not my thing. I have less control when turning and using rails. It's hard to explain. The feeling would be like when you're in the sea trying to push a swim ring underwater. It won't sink and it's you that's going to tip over (-don't know how to explain this in the term of surfing). A shortboard, in contrast, follows me wherever I go. But since it's already here, I'm going to hang onto it for a while, maybe until Christmas and see if I really have to buy me a new present.

haha wow i googled "trouble surfing my shortboard" this popped up. I'm having the exact same problem. I switched from a 6'2"x18.5"x2 3/8" to a 6'x18 3/4"x2 3/8" not much of a difference but when in visual comparison the 6' is thicker than my old shortboard. It floats me better than my old board, but i have trouble adjusting. Before I made the switch, I would catch a wave with ease on my old board that barely floats me. This new one floats me great but I have trouble with the balance and paddle. (maybe i haven't had time to adjust, its only been 2 days) It's weird my old board can't even catch white water, this new one catches it with ease but i have more trouble with it than my old shortboard. I sound repetitive, I'm just frustrated. i've been surfing shortboards for 11 months now, im not pro nor am i a novice, im somewhere in between. any more suggestions?

Cambo-Rider wrote:haha wow i googled "trouble surfing my shortboard" this popped up. I'm having the exact same problem. I switched from a 6'2"x18.5"x2 3/8" to a 6'x18 3/4"x2 3/8" not much of a difference but when in visual comparison the 6' is thicker than my old shortboard. It floats me better than my old board, but i have trouble adjusting. Before I made the switch, I would catch a wave with ease on my old board that barely floats me. This new one floats me great but I have trouble with the balance and paddle. (maybe i haven't had time to adjust, its only been 2 days) It's weird my old board can't even catch white water, this new one catches it with ease but i have more trouble with it than my old shortboard. I sound repetitive, I'm just frustrated. i've been surfing shortboards for 11 months now, im not pro nor am i a novice, im somewhere in between. any more suggestions?

Welcome mate!

Maybe your problem is the fins like mine? What fins have you got? And what is your new board?

At this early stage I'd stick with it a few more sessions before messing about with fins. You may not be in the sweet spot yet. Possibly too far back on the board, could look and feel right cos you are used to having those 2 extra inches up there.

When you say balance, is that when you are up and riding? How does it feel on the face? Just out of curiosity, what are the rails like compared to your old board? I have found changing between boards with soft to boards with sharp rails can take a little adjustment time also, making balance on turns seem a bit "off".

Cambo-Rider wrote: my old board can't even catch white water, this new one catches it with ease but i have more trouble with it than my old shortboard.

So, there are a couple of reasons for this, and garbarage already pointed a coupel out. The shortness and the rails might be different, and so might the rocker. Unless you bought the exact same model but shorter, they will ride different.

Would changing fins help? Probably not, you could put bigger fins on but you would be sacrificing the great paddle feeling you are experiencing.

So, what's the answer? Simple, you gotta get used to it. Hate to say it, but there is nothing wrong with the board, or you, that time and patience won't cure. Case in point, when I decided to try quads, I had a slight problem that I would fall backwards on steep waves, the board seem to take off without me on it. I eventually compensated by changing the point I was popping up, higher in the wave that with my thruster. I don't mean this as your answer, but I had to figure this out for my surfing.

What will be your answer? Maybe popping up earlier, maybe a wider stance, maybe bending the knees a little more, maybe not digging the rail as har or setting it harder. Give yourself a little bit of time, the extra paddle you seemed to have gained will pay off dividends in a higher wave count, you just gotta get used to the board

Hi guys, just want to say that I went to D'bah today with my 5'10. But I didn't expect the surf to be about overhead! It was the first time I felt surfing was scary. I got only 4-5 good waves out of my 4-hour session. Lol. Now I've learned more about the size. Tomorrow I'll take revenge with my 6'4.

PS. I saw Mick Fanning in person for the first time today! He turned up and ripped it like a piece of cake!