Surfing Waves

Hey, i was just wondering how you paddle out into a big surf without dropping balls and if you would just do the same as you would on smaller waves? Also how do i no when to move down to a smaller board (5'8 or something) i use a 6'3.

Depends on the size of the waves, I still pull out my step-up when it gets a couple of feet overhead, and only use my shortie when its chest overhead. I could probably use my shortboard in big waves but I like the extra lenght so I don't pass up on any waves

Not sure if I can help. The biggest I've surfed is around 4-5 ft. (or just overhead) with a 6'4 shortboard and every time I'd spot a wave from afar and start padding earlier otherwise just wait right before it breaks and give it only a few paddle and use it's height for your take-off speed. I'm sure you can do it either way. The most important thing is to have balls to do it. Feel the speed and adrenaline! Once you get the hang of it you might end up hating small surfs for the rest of your life.

If you're planning to jump from a 6'3 to 5'8 you might want to read my recent post here: https://surfing-waves.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=18093 Good luck!

my problem with bigger waves is that they are usually also more vertical and wall up pretty fast, so this would translate into a late takeoff, or a drop into the void. How do you manage that? Recently I found myself more scared than I thought.
Also, I understand a bigger board is more stable, but it doesnt make the take off more difficult when waves are bigger and vertical?

merry christmas!!

One of the problems faced in the hunt for bigger waves is they don't happen as often as you would like to get accustomed to size and often when it is bigger it is with a close to shore system that is generating it. All of which means that you are not getting the experience with quality surf.

Ideally you have perfect surf that gets bigger every day, how often does that happen.
Bigger perfect surf can be a little easier to handle first up as you get caught in the perfection and the timing is easier to get

Really to ride bigger you need to be able to commit to the wave and also be unafraid of a wipeout, give yourself plenty of time to get out to the break and plenty of time to plan your first couple of waves, rehearse them in your mind , try angled take offs at first and less aggressive lines until you feel you have the control and ability to read and ride the situation.

A couple of interesting that you'll find, bigger means more speed, means more power to push turns etc.
Often bigger means that there is more time in the white water coming down as it has further to fall but then again, so do you!

You really have to commit to your take off, half scared paddles get you nowhere except lip launched, make sure you are confident that your equipment is suitable for the surf, you are off to a shaky start when you are undergunned and the board is just not holding it.
About bigger boards and take offs, more volume in the board gives more paddle power and ability to catch the wave earlier, you just have to adjust your take off lines accordingly, and that comes with experience and that comes with putting your balls on the line and paddling out and into!

Final clue if you don't feel, you can do it you probably can't, if you feel you have a chance of giving it a good go you probably can

BTW there is absolutely nothing wrong in declining a go out at size, if it is not for you

lorcar wrote:my problem with bigger waves is that they are usually also more vertical and wall up pretty fast, so this would translate into a late takeoff, or a drop into the void.

The reason for the bigger board is so you can paddle faster, catch the wave sooner, and be halfway down the line as the wave walls, that way you can ride it if it's good or turn around then dive off the board under the wave if not.

If you are air dropping it's probably not the board, it's either your paddling or that the board is too small for your ability in those conditions. Try a buddy's bigger board in big swell, you'd be suprised. There's a reason why people use guns in huge waves, same principle in big waves.

themathteacher wrote:
The reason for the bigger board is so you can paddle faster, catch the wave sooner, and be halfway down the line as the wave walls, that way you can ride it if it's good or turn around then dive off the board under the wave if not.

That's some truly bad advice, diving off the board under the wave is not a habit which we should be promoting .

You just advocated taking off, surfing 'halfway' down the line and then diving off the board if the wave isn't 'good'.

Join the Dunce Class with rickyroughneck who says that jumping off the board is his normal end to a ride...

Idiots!

jaffa1949 wrote:One of the problems faced in the hunt for bigger waves is they don't happen as often as you would like to get accustomed to size and often when it is bigger it is with a close to shore system that is generating it. All of which means that you are not getting the experience with quality surf.

Ideally you have perfect surf that gets bigger every day, how often does that happen.
Bigger perfect surf can be a little easier to handle first up as you get caught in the perfection and the timing is easier to get

Really to ride bigger you need to be able to commit to the wave and also be unafraid of a wipeout, give yourself plenty of time to get out to the break and plenty of time to plan your first couple of waves, rehearse them in your mind , try angled take offs at first and less aggressive lines until you feel you have the control and ability to read and ride the situation.

A couple of interesting that you'll find, bigger means more speed, means more power to push turns etc.
Often bigger means that there is more time in the white water coming down as it has further to fall but then again, so do you!

You really have to commit to your take off, half scared paddles get you nowhere except lip launched, make sure you are confident that your equipment is suitable for the surf, you are off to a shaky start when you are undergunned and the board is just not holding it.
About bigger boards and take offs, more volume in the board gives more paddle power and ability to catch the wave earlier, you just have to adjust your take off lines accordingly, and that comes with experience and that comes with putting your balls on the line and paddling out and into!

Final clue if you don't feel, you can do it you probably can't, if you feel you have a chance of giving it a good go you probably can

BTW there is absolutely nothing wrong in declining a go out at size, if it is not for you

I found that the best way was to live and surf full time ( i.e. no day job) at an epic and very consistent pointbreak which handles and gets plenty of size for a few years surfing the place on every swell.

Beachbreaks also work well for this purpose but are harder work, the key is to go out all the time, on every swell whether it be onshore, big, small or whatever.

Roy Stewart wrote:

themathteacher wrote:
The reason for the bigger board is so you can paddle faster, catch the wave sooner, and be halfway down the line as the wave walls, that way you can ride it if it's good or turn around then dive off the board under the wave if not.

That's some truly bad advice, diving off the board under the wave is not a habit which we should be promoting .

You just advocated taking off, surfing 'halfway' down the line and then diving off the board if the wave isn't 'good'.

Join the Dunce Class with rickyroughneck who says that jumping off the board is his normal end to a ride...

Idiots!

The alternative is to join the altogether more special class with Mr Roy, to which most people have simply resorted to giving a smile and nod at the incessant antagonistic gibberish that he continuously insists in posting.

Mathteachers advice is sound, not all waves work and as long as you aren't putting yours or others lives in danger the there are applicable ways to bail a board.

There's no need to jump off one's board, it's a very bad practice.

You and the 'mathteacher' should refrain from giving advice as you are both incompetent kooks.

Here's Miket hemathteacher

as you can see he hurls himself backwards off his board even in chest high waves.

Jumping off one's board on a big wall which is closing out is a very bad idea. Even if the leash doesn't break it can cause major problems as the board gets caught in the breaking wave while the rider is over the back of the wave. The wave can drag the rider via the board and leash back over into the wave, resulting in some nasty hold downs. If the leash breaks that is also problematic for obvious reasons.

People who do this are displaying gross incomptetence and should get out of the water.

Far better to either straighten out, kick out over the top of the wave , do an Island pullout through the back of the wave ( i.e. while holding on to the board.) or make the wave.

.

Do an Island pullout, in waves like that... Really?

The only life that themathteacher endangered was that of his leash. You are a fool to deny bailing as a strategy where there are situations where it is the either the only option, or the best compromise.

The rules that may apply to mushy 2ft waves are not universal.

You are talking nonsense, again, and are giving bad advice to newbies when it is clear from your posts that you are a kook who can barely surf.

Themathteacherr's video shows that he is in the same category.

You guys don't even surf bigger waves and jump off your boards on every wave even in tiny waves... pathetic.

Roy Stewart wrote:You are talking nonsense, again, and are giving bad advice to newbies when it is clear from your posts that you are a kook who can barely surf.

Themathteacherr's video shows that he is in the same category.

You guys don't even surf bigger waves and jump off your boards on every wave even in tiny waves... pathetic.

I don't surf bigger waves? You know this? Pathetic, don't start throwing stones, you won't like the broken glass.

So at what height waves would i ride a bigger board e.g. my 6,3 (measured from the back)

themathteacher wrote:

Roy Stewart wrote:You are talking nonsense, again, and are giving bad advice to newbies when it is clear from your posts that you are a kook who can barely surf.

Themathteacherr's video shows that he is in the same category.

You guys don't even surf bigger waves and jump off your boards on every wave even in tiny waves... pathetic.

I don't surf bigger waves? You know this? Pathetic, don't start throwing stones, you won't like the broken glass.

That's not very big but there's no point in having a 'how long is a piece of string/' argument... the point I'm making is that jumping off the board is a bad habit and should not be recommended as a functional way to exit waves.

I saw your video where you jumped off two tiny waves in a row that was sheer kookery and incompetence, you should not be giving advice until you learn how to surf.

By the way that is a very strange posture you have adopted, bum way up in the air with hands still on the board, let us see what happened next did you jump off the board again ?

bazza87 wrote:So at what height waves would i ride a bigger board e.g. my 6,3 (measured from the back)

Bazza don't worry about measuring waves for you boards whether from the back or the front, there is a whole lot of hype about how to measure waves, just look at the waves , whichever board you have to hand , will it allow you to ride in the conditions you see before you. the yes answer will tell you the board, a wrong answer will how you why you should have chosen the other board.
EASY BTW if you think you can't handle it on either board don't go out, you should be feeling challenged but not terrified.

Roy Stewart wrote: By the way that is a very strange posture you have adopted, bum way up in the air with hands still on the board, let us see what happened next did you jump off the board again ?

Really, you going to go into form with me? Wow, so it happens that the guy taking the picture snapped it as I was popping up.

However, if you want to talk about "posture", I guess if I wanted to impress you I would crouch, stop riding my board with my body sideways, wear a bright red santa suit and wear a helmet in 2ft waters.

You might make some very pretty boards but the way you ride them is ridiculous.

Don't forget the standing upright, arms out "Titanic" pose.

We just had a big swell over here, I came out on a local blog, cool stuff. I'm in the first picture:

http://www.flickr.com//photos/enlighten ... 1973/show/

Also hit baja with the wife. She sucks at taking video, but caught me on my worse waves LOL. Enjoy: