Surfing Waves

Hi
I have read every post and watched every video ther and practiced and practiced but still can't get it rite ,I recently dropd down in size from a 9ft/23/3 to a 9ft1/22/2/78 to a7 ft 2/217/8/27/8 to now I'm riding a 6ft6/21/2/78 so I have progressed a bit since I've started I just got the shortboard but I am getting absolutely hammered out in the water and I feel or think it's because of my poP up the board paddles great and floats me good but I can't seem to get going as soon as I try poP uP I'm either going over the falls or missing the wave completely and I'm going nutz here !! By the way I'm 28 6ft2 and bout 92kg
Any helP would be more than appreciated
Thanks for your time

You may be too far back on the board, also try arching your back when paddling for the wave so that your chest is slightly off the board. Keep your feet from dragging in the water and work on popping up faster. Could also be the wave condition at the time. And if you find yourself getting pissed off, paddle in and cool off a bit.

Timing is crucial when popping up.
stepping down from a longboard to a shortboard takes getting used to as shortboards work on the steeper part of the waves.

paddle hard with your head down as the wave approaches then try to lift your head and arch your back as you pick up speed. place your arms at the sides of the board lift your torso and wait. don't take off immediately. use that extra half a second to positon yourself in the direction you want to go and then pop up just as you feel the board sliding beneath you. you should be able to make the drop and gather enough speed.

you should get it down in no time. depending on your local break
I always feel that going over the falls is better than being left behind. the pain pays off in experience plus getting left behind is sooooo frustrating.