Surfing Waves

yesterday i had the WORst session ever. I was too deep on the take off zone, found myself missing the sections, and probbaly had the best wipeouts ever. To be honest my session, terrible, my mood? I was the happiest guy there! I was laughing at myself cause my wipeouts were funny as hell!

i wish i had footage but i took off on a really nice hollow wave, and as soon as i poped to my feet the fins slipped and i took a face plant. looked something like my friend did here


and on another wave, i went to do a floater, and the wave broke too early. so i'm going up and down bottom turn, i see teh section for a floater, pull up and O xxxxx! i smack the curl and i'm fallilng backwards hahah.

lets hope i get my act together for tomorrow

Hi Quality face plant there.
Jetty crew just loved it

I think we've all had one of "those" sessions before when it seems nothing goes right. What pisses me off the most is when a perfect wave is coming, you swing around to get it, and your leash gets stuck between your f__king toe!! Your Toelocked!

Had a good long time out of the water recently due to other commitments. Working when it was good and the little free time I had was either no swell or windy as hell and huge (but not quite big enough for the protected spots). 4 or 5 sessions in a row where I think I went back to kook stage. Then all of a sudden this weekend it all just clicked, went out on a decent 3-4ft day rights and lefts, and after a couple of wobbly take offs I just started nailing it again. Stoked!!!

You have the right attitude though, you can get stuck in a rut if you let it get to you. Laughing it off will go a long way to making your next sesh a good one.

I know those bad sessions as well. Something which annoys me very much is when there are waves which break in an area where the the water depth is less than 1 meter. I once took a wave, couldn't manage to stay on my board, and fell head-first into the water. Of course I smashed my head against a shell which was on the ground floor of the sea, so that I had a 'nice' reminder of that session.

Wave4Surf wrote:I know those bad sessions as well. Something which annoys me very much is when there are waves which break in an area where the the water depth is less than 1 meter. I once took a wave, couldn't manage to stay on my board, and fell head-first into the water. Of course I smashed my head against a shell which was on the ground floor of the sea, so that I had a 'nice' reminder of that session.

No joke dude, I was surfing in a spot that would fill up and then empty in about 20-30 seconds. It was full and I was going for the outer break, but a perfect roller came my way and I jumped on. I worked my way down but it started to close off, I pushed to move off the wave and try to get out in front of the close out but put to much forward and pearled. During my ride the bottom drained out and when I landed hard it was in 6-8 inches of water. I popped up just in time to catch the board on the side of my face.

I'm still nursing a fracture on the bone that makes up my right eye-socket.

@madcat OK that beat my accident... XD

But I still hate it

the picture above still makes me laugh

^+1. it looks like you got knocked out cold by something.

during a particularly frustrating session (waves were great, me, not so much) I suffered my coolest wipeout ever.
I was taking of and just after I popped up my board started pearling. My feet barely touched the board and I actually jumped over it on a front flip.
Too bad I didn't land on the board. But that was probably the wave of the day, at least in the fun criteria