Surfing Waves

Its taking me some hard time getting use to wanting to try to get into a barrel. Ova here in salt creek and such somtimes it happens. yesterday it did but i naturally pulled out toward the beach. i keep telling myself, "the barrel is the safest place"-lopez, but i naturally want to avoid it. I'm trying to push myself into it but sometimes my ass sticks out too haha, i'm trying to get low and into stance. I'm a pretty big guy, 6', 200lbs. If you don't know we don't move very fast or get very low lol. Any suggestions? tips? i know it will come to me eventually, but I WANT it and I WANT IT NOW!

naniekso, I would have thought that skill was a class requirement at D 'bah, but I guess you'll just have to begin channeling your inner pig dog and getting the lean and grip down ASAP.
Wind it up as you take the drop at an angle and just pull in.
Drive until it closes out take it like a rat on the head a couple of time or as many as necessary. The hottest barrel riders here started by pulling in deep and not making getting used to being slammed and wave by wave they came closer to making it, and then one day they did! Balls to the walls No guts no glory

Jaffa, naniesko is no banana bender, 'D'bah' isn't Duranbah in his case, he is a seppo . (I could be completely wrong but that's what I've gathered) But yeah learning to get barreled on the Goldie would probably be easy....

Dunno if the tube is the safest place, it might be at pipe considering that killer lip but on normal hollow waves you can get hurt too whilst tucked in. Heard some nasty stories of guys practising in closeouts, and I often get a knock doing this too. Tucking in can go against your instincts and if you are keen on hitting the lip you often race ahead and forget to stall for the suckers building up behind you that you are oblivious to.

Aloha wrote:Jaffa, naniesko is no banana bender, 'D'bah' isn't Duranbah in his case, he is a seppo . (I could be completely wrong but that's what I've gathered) But yeah learning to get barreled on the Goldie would probably be easy....

Dunno if the tube is the safest place, it might be at pipe considering that killer lip but on normal hollow waves you can get hurt too whilst tucked in. Heard some nasty stories of guys practising in closeouts, and I often get a knock doing this too. Tucking in can go against your instincts and if you are keen on hitting the lip you often race ahead and forget to stall for the suckers building up behind you that you are oblivious to.

Explains a lot

i've been given the nickname dbah since i was 13 years old. only did i find out when i started to surf and upload the videos to youtube, is there acctually a spot called duranbah called dbah! cool huh?

You'll have to visit Dbah and take on the Dbah crew namesake to namesake. LOTS and LOTS visiting surfers do

I've been barreled countless times, and I've pulled out countless times. It is all about confidence. Skill isn't even that big an issue, I got more barrels than ever on my second year of surfing, when I felt I could do some decent stuff, but haven't been hit really, really hard on the head by a lip yet.