Surfing Waves

whts up guys. question for ya.

On the bigger days here in socal its sometimes hard(for me at least) to tell weither the wave will be a wall or perfect right or left with some sections.

When the waves get past 5ft i can't really tell anymore beacause they all look relativly the same, a huge wall of water with a peak that hopefuly you can survive the drop and if you do then its either a wave or a wall.

The consistancy comes every so often with the reef braking the wave into sections and small corners and such. But when the big days come i can't really seem to look down the line and find out weither or not its a wall.

b/c the bigger waves the more water on the left or right you are traveling on , to which a normal day looks like its a wall or a closeout. how can you tell on bigger days? i normaly ride the shoulder on the bigger days just cause its much easier to not die.

Easier not to die a very good start.
Anticipating the wave shape - experience of the break and experience of surfing.
Remember each wave is and always will be different - this is one of the marvels of surfing. No surfer gets the wave correct al the time. It will always be drop in and ride it as it comes.

Locals know the wave indicators so watch them. If they get twitchy see where they paddle as there is a wave on the way, also try to spot what made them twitch. Follow them, big waves come in sets so you might get the next one.

Try to spot the wave early sometimes it's just a dark smudge in the water far away. The part you spot first will likely be the peak so from that you'll have a good idea if it's left or right. See if there are any other indicators like an off shore reef or a headland further away. Often big waves will briefly bump into something early and show you that they are coming. It's like a brief blip on the radar.

The other thing is just go for the wave. In theory (not counting dropping in on someone) the worst thing that can happen is you go left on a right or vice versa. The wave will section in front of you and you'll have to straighten out. Through experience you will start to improve your ability in reading waves. I don't mean just 'left or right' recognition, I mean reading whilst riding; where to get speed where to slow down etc. even where to time your duck dive. That's just something that you get with time, even after many years I still find I'm always learning more in this department.

watch the surf before you paddle out too. try to figure out where it's breaking, and an idea where you should sit in the water. and when you find a good takeoff spot, set your lineup (two objects on the beach that line up), and just keep going back there. especially if you're on a reef/point break.

Learning a new spot on a longboard helps loads. Catch more waves so you get to see more of how that shape you see coming in will turn out.

garbarrage wrote:Learning a new spot on a longboard helps loads.

Shortboarders only, Dude! HAHA!

not even going to dignify that with a response

Oops... oh well, as I've started I might as well continue. I suggest learning a new spot on a longboard with the ultimate goal of being able to surf it better on a shortboard.

garbarrage wrote:not even going to dignify that with a response

garbarrage wrote:Oops... oh well, as I've started I might as well continue. I suggest learning a new spot on a longboard with the ultimate goal of being able to surf it better on a shortboard.

LMAO!