Surfing Waves

My best surf was in Sun Set Cliffs southern California, it was 6:00 AM and only 2 people out. The size was 8 feet low tide gave it juice. The spot was called Luscombs a 2 way peak that could hold up to 13 feet. I surf their from 6:00AM until 11:00AM. A good 5 hours straight. The most people were their was only about 13. Clean up sets were 9ft. My leash broke and I had to paddle all the way to the chanel to get it. Lucky for me my board did not hit the rocks at the cliffs. I kept surfing though, the surf was to good to pass up.

My first wave was my best, because it was my gateway wave. I was on a costco longboard 8 foot tall, at Laguna Beach surfing brooks street around 3:40 pm on a busy beach day with a big crowd of people watching us. I had trouble standing on waves at the time and yet alone to turn. But I paddled for this HUGE wave that was only 4 feet lol. But to me it was big. Anyway i caught it and i stoop up almost lost my footing but then i finnaly caught my first wave! I wanted to touch a beautiful wall of blue-ish green beauty that was to my left, but i didn't know how to turn so i looked at it and i found myself drifting toward the wall of water, i reached my hand out and touched it. The image is burned in my mind and forever shall be. My first wave, and my best. After i touched and all of time stood still it started to move again, and next thing i know theres sand dripping from my ears

If you think about it, almost every wave you catch no one else ever gets to catch(unless they drop in). That in itself is a beauty, knowing that you surfed a wave no one else has. Although, it happens to hit that spot every day, it was YOUR wave for that time.

Ive surfed luscoms, osprey, birshit, rockslides and garbage at sunset cliffs and had a blast. I've caught osprey and garbage about double overhead and perfect and it's a great wave even when big. Other double overhead waves I've surfed that held up great is Tourmoline and Calumet.

The biggest SCARY waves I've surfed is baja at La Fonda, OB and Blacks, not quite double overhead but it was as thick as it was tall!

The most fun big surf I've surfed, many times, is baja double overhead+. All my go out's haven't always been perfect, but I've had a few where it was big 12ft faces but super form, easy to make, long shoulders, great conditons, fun fun!!!

Big surf doesn't neccessarily equal fun. If anyone has seen a triple over head plus set before, you know what I'm talking about.

I think fun surf 6 feet. Big but not very scary.

raekwon chef wrote:Big surf doesn't neccessarily equal fun. If anyone has seen a triple over head plus set before, you know what I'm talking about.

I agree. One time I was surfing at my local beach break in Manhattan Beach, and it was a big day. I dropped in on an 8 foot left
(backside for me) and I went down the line hauling a** and pulled off the top of the wave when it was about to close out. I was so shocked that I made it I paddled back to the line up and sat there for 10 minutes contemplating wether I should try and take another one because the first was so gnarly. I decided I would so when the next set came I dropped in on another wave that was only about 6 foot but thicker and more powerful than the other one. I ended up pearling and while I was getting held down my leash ripped off and I started to freak out (even though I know not to do that when you are being held down.) I finally made it up after about 20 seconds and was glad to see that my board was not to far away. Exhausted, I decided it would be a good idea to go home and stop pushing my luck. That was overall, the biggest, and most frightening day of surfing I have ever had.

-Charlie

When I was young and strong, I enjoyed 7 foot waves. Remember catching them every time I wanted. Now, I'm old and am happy with 3 foot. Sorta funny story: tried a 14 footer long before I was ready for such things. Ended up with a broken rib in my back. Then I couldn't surf or play guitar for a very long time.

Ohh thats a bummer!!! But ya, I would definitely rather ride a three foot wave than a 7 footer any day!

Jan 1983 (I was 20 and ), HUGE at Haggerty's. Looked like great lefts out there. 1/2 of Santa Monica pier went into the water in that storm. Part of Venice did too and others I believe also. Haggerty's was the only place we found to paddle out. 25+ on the point. But it was not that fun. We were in the middle in the 15 to 20' area. Waves were to big and to fast for me and my little Underground board
I skipped on the water on one I bailed on. I caught 3 waves and was done the first time I got hammered by one.
So NO, big is not always fun, not to me anyway.


The most fun for me is any clean day, head high.

6-8 ft (twelve foot plus faces) on a gun - awesome day - perfect glass - had to swim out - beautiful weather - hot sun and cool water - just rocked for some reason, a real stoke session.

Double overhead...... Every double overhead wave I ever caught seems etched in my memory. Not sure if its the scariest thing I have seen falling towards me or the most beautiful ?? BIG days are more about doing it than having fun. I think I go on those days because I am a closet adrinaline freak.

The biggest SCARY waves I've surfed is baja at La Fonda, OB and Blacks, not quite double overhead but it was as thick as it was tall!

LOL OB is a mutant wave when it gets big i hear you on that one and blacks is teh only place i actualy thought i would drown. Still i would have give my award for scary surf in san diego to Windansea/big rock/rockpiles when its big those waves are lethal. The funniest wave is marine street shorebreak (the bdy boarding only one) hilarious to surf just mind you dont snap your board.

J-Rock wrote:My best surf was in Sun Set Cliffs southern California, it was 6:00 AM and only 2 people out. The size was 8 feet low tide gave it juice. The spot was called Luscombs a 2 way peak that could hold up to 13 feet. I surf their from 6:00AM until 11:00AM. A good 5 hours straight. The most people were their was only about 13. Clean up sets were 9ft. My leash broke and I had to paddle all the way to the chanel to get it. Lucky for me my board did not hit the rocks at the cliffs. I kept surfing though, the surf was to good to pass up.

you lucky you got luscombs with only 2 people out at 8ft every time i surf that wave its a mob. Great wave though in the right conditions. Best sessions have been on the cliffs (not gonna name em ) anyway spot "X" usually is less crowded and has an seriously long right to catch when the surf is good it can also barrel on on the right conditions. Best ride i ever caught was at spot X, went forever perfectly glassy in about 6-8ft conditions no wind. Almost died ont he end of the wave because i rode it waaaay to far inside and the wave sucked up to dry reef forcing me to bail onto rock. lucky no damages to me or board

Another fun session on the cliffs are the ones where there is no paddle to speak of and sooo many waves. have to know the conditions though. Hush hush

Got lucky this season, actually got a couple of good pics of my by some buds, we all took turns being photographer. The first two are me, the last is my bud, none of these where the biggest of the sets, but all of these where double overhead drop-in's

Baja in December

Baja in January

Woah nice waves there mathteacher!!!!!

themathteacher wrote:Ive surfed luscoms, osprey, birshit, rockslides and garbage at sunset cliffs and had a blast. I've caught osprey and garbage about double overhead and perfect and it's a great wave even when big. Other double overhead waves I've surfed that held up great is Tourmoline and Calumet.

The biggest SCARY waves I've surfed is baja at La Fonda, OB and Blacks, not quite double overhead but it was as thick as it was tall!

The most fun big surf I've surfed, many times, is baja double overhead+. All my go out's haven't always been perfect, but I've had a few where it was big 12ft faces but super form, easy to make, long shoulders, great conditons, fun fun!!!

To add, at the last baja big session a bud was taking pictures, and he sucks as a photographer. I was about to delete all the pics when I came accross one that actually is worth keeping. Check out this pic, that little spec at the bottom is me:

Woah when you point that out it really puts it into perspective! Thats looks like a huge day! How big was it?

Hmmm the biggest cleanest swell i have paddled out in was definately not my best days surfing as double overhead at the time and probably still is outside my comfort zone.
Here's one piccie from that day.



My best days surfing though had to be at oli's point and witches rock. I'd wanted to surf it for 10 years and when i finally got there it was fooking great, i guess it was a surfing pilgrimage. Not big (only head high on sets) but only 5 of us and we had all day.



KS

Middleton Point, DoH+ and yeah I was on my 9'6" single fin hehe!

Biggest I have surfed is around the 10'' mark ish, funnest waves for me are like 6 foot clean.