Surfing Waves

Hey guys, i'm hoping i can get some advice on my next board type/size. I've been surfing for about 6 months now on a 9' longboard. Although it has been a good board to learn on and everything, but I'm kinda getting bored with it and wanting to try out something different. I hear fish boards are great because they have best of both long and shortboard characteristics. However, as far as what type of fish, i get different recommendations. Some say to go with retro type (twin fin) and others say to go with hybrid fish with quad or thruster set up. I'm 40 years old and in a decent shape. I'm 6' tall and weigh 170 pounds. I surf once or twice a week in south Orange County, CA.

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

It depends what you want and your skill level. A fish to me is a large swallow retro shape around your height in length thats super skatey. Some people call a 7 foot board a fish, and while it may resemble a fish shape, it surfs nothing like one and more like a longboard. 6 months surfing sounds like you would do better with a board to transition down with. I wouldnt go smaller then a 6'8" hybrid fish to transition down with. Something similar to a superfish shape with alot of volume still in it but a more aggressive outline. This will get you easier turns and lots of wave count still so you can keep improving. Jumping down to a proper size retro fish (something around your height) at this stage will leave you frustrated and missing alot of waves. A retro fish is just as challenging as a shortboard. Same pop up, critical timing, similar paddling. They surf alot more similar then a longboard does in comparison. By the time your ready to ride the right size fish I would say your ready to hop on a shortboard. If you feel like testing the waters, go borrow a shortboard or fish and give it a try. It is alot different then longboarding and will make you feel like your surfing for the first time . But once you learn it you will have a blast.

Well I am about your size just a bit more weight. I am also older at age 46. Have been away from surfing for 25 years (surfed 7+ years when younger). Things sure have changed. Anyway.. I don't think your going to see much of a difference from a Quad or Thruster at this time. I have not been on a twin fin in 25 years LOL! I have surfed the Quad and Thruster set up on my 6'3" 7S Superfish (pop out). I am still trying to feel the difference my self. I can't tell if I am catching waves with a little more ease with the quad or not? Maybe the waves are just better for my board that day. I don't know...everything feels about the same. I only get to go once a week. My point is with you being so new to it, it would be hard to feel the difference I think. You can also get boards that you can change from a quad to a thruster (like mine). I am having fun on my board but I am also looking to add to my one board quiver now LOL! I'm not sure if it's time for a shaper yet. I'm still getting better with each trip. Hope this helps in some way.

Have fun, stay stoked!

PS Whats up Tri!

Yo Don, if your trying to call me ATT has completely dropped out in Pacifica and Ive lost contact to the outside world until they fix it, haha so lame.

Thanks for your feedback guys! I'll be looking around for a either funboard or hybrid fish in 7 ~ 7'6" size range. Thanks again for your help!!

i think thats still to big tkh. I tried a longboard (costco soft top) and i got bored of it in two weeks lol. then i got a retro fish, a 6'6 by 21.5 by 3 and i find it really fun with the catchability of the longboard and the turning abillity of a shortboard. I weigh 210ish and am 6', i suggest you try a fish. It will be difficult at first, but the entrance speed will keep you on it.

its all fair and well saying that you can stand up on a longboard, and you get bored, but then its not all about just standing on the board going perpendicular to the wave. you want to turn, cross step, hang five and hang ten etc. thats what makes the longboard fun. im on a 8ft bilbo torpedo im 6ft2 and weigh a good 95kgs i think arounf 210 pounds. perfect board for me, but there is always something to learn. it just depends what you want to get out of surfing and obviously what the conditions are normally like down at your break. thats just my opinion. each to their own.