Surfing Waves

I bowed never to longboard again, had my shaper make me a 6'10" fat fish I use as my longboard and mostly surf either my 6'2 or 6'5" shortie (I'm 200lbs, that is plenty short for my size)

So the surf lately has been crapola, total mush noodles about a foot in size.

So I go up in the rafters and pull out my 9'6" longboard, which has not seen daylight in like a year and a half, and take it out on a windy, sprinkling 1ft day. I did not turn, no cutbacks, not much other than paddle like a madman and glide into wave after wave after wave till my arms got tired, must have caught about 2 dozen tiny long super cruising waves.

Usually I break out the fish and ride a bunch of small ones, but not this time, I longboarded.

And I had a blast!!

How could I go back to longboarding? Worse, how could I have liked it? Maybe I'm not as bad-assed as I thought, maybe I am mellowing in my older years. Maybe, just maybe, I should stop saying I don't longboard and embrace my inner plankness.

Longboarding is fun. There, I said it. Dam it I wish we had waves, San Diego has been flat the past 2 days!

Or maybe you just need to chill and diversify. Ride what you want, when you want.

Like Beau Young says "I'm a smorgas-boarder. I ride what I like, when I like."

Get a massive quiver and just take whatever you fancy on the day.

You will be a much better surfer for it.

San Diego has been flat the past 2 days!

Havnt been out in a week its been so poor i think a longboard is the only way to catch those little tiddlers and extract something that resembles fun. That said i just cant get amped to surf 1ft slop with grey weather

Longboarding is fun but i couldnt get amped to surf a longboard unless its the only craft i could actually catch anything with. Mostly if im on a longboard its barely surfable so im just really pissing around and just chilling. Tandem surfing a longboard is hella fun in small surf too reccomend it to anyone to try even if you get really srange looks from people

themathteacher wrote:embrace my inner plankness.

dougirwin13 wrote: Get a massive quiver and just take whatever you fancy on the day.
You will be a much better surfer for it.

Funny, I was talking to a bud about my quiver. I have too many boards:

9'6"longboard - Eberly Surfboards custom PU
8'2" California Gun - Linden PU
7' Semi-gun - Addict Surfboards custom PU tripple stringer
6'10" fish (thick/wide) - Addict Surfboards custom epoxy
6'8" big boy shortboard - Sharpeye Surfboards custom PU
6'6" tuflite Merrick flyer (dont' like it much, it's a loaner board)
6'5" shortie semi-gun- Addict Surfboards custom, carbon fiber
6'4" shortie - Energy Surfboards custom PU (my backup board)
6'2" shortie - Addict Surfboard custom, carbon fiber deck

The 6'6" and the 6'4" where kinda gifts, one because I gave a bud a wetsuit and the other cause it needed to be fixed. The 6'8" I got a long time ago but it has become sort of obsolete, same with my longboard. So really I only regularly surf 5 of the boards.

In the pipeline: Custom fish, a hybrid between the LOST NSF and the Xanady Rocky, will post up picks. Should be my new summer board

themathteacher wrote:I have too many boards

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drowningbitbybit wrote:

themathteacher wrote:I have too many boards

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Hahahahahahahaha nice one !

Yeah I used to use my longboard on small days to keep the paddling practice up.

I'd ride 'till the fin hit the sand.

Used to have a grin actually.

Good fun and as themathteacher says in the first post ^ up there, it's worth doing.

At least we have waves now

I'll happily take any board you consider to be 'surplus to requirements'.

I think there is a bit of plank in all of us! I just wish I could afford one for my quiver.