Surfing Waves

Hi Guys,

Great to find this site!

I have been looking through the archives here on advice for a board and I have discovered two things:

1) Buying an Al Merrick as a first board is definitely a no-no (I have to agree with this, spending all that money for a "name", when I can spend half that and have a local shaper copy the same board, doesn't seem like a wise move)

2) It's a good idea to develop a good relationship with your local shaper

Ok, now, some history. I'm 5'10, 145 lbs., 37 years old (damn!). I used to surf between the ages of 18 - 22 in New York, I picked it up pretty quick and was riding waves a lot quicker than anyone else I used to go with. When everyone stopped surfing so did I. Fast forward to when I was 30, I started riding bicyles and got bit by the racing bug so I started to do some races and went from a beginner cyclist to elite in 6 months. This landed me a team in Italy for a year and then a year in Spain. I have continued to race at the elite level since then, even though I'm an "old" man. I now live in Costa Rica and I have gotten bit once again by the surfing bug. I have gone a few times and have been using a friends board but now I would like to buy one. Due to the cycling I have lost a lot of upper body mass and although I have picked it up again fairly easy I find that I am it will take me a little while longer to progress.

I would like to buy a board and considering what I have read here using a local shaper is the way to go. But I don't know what to buy, I was looking at the Al Merricks and I was wondering if the Flyer would be a good board for the shaper to copy. I was thinking like 6'3" x 19 x 2 3/8". What do you guys think? I would like something that is not advanced but not complete beginner either and it seems that's what the Flyer is all about. To get the custom board it will cost ~$320 - 375, the other option is to buy an Anacapa Pro Standard for $425.

I'm sure I have left out a lot of details so if you need more info, don't hesitate ask.

Thanks guys.

I am speaking from what I have read, not personal experience, but here is my idea of this situation. Instead of going to a shaper and asking him to copy a board, why not go to that shaper and build a relationship with him. If you spend some time talking and going over what you want out of your board, he will build one to suit you. You won't find a guy better at picking the right board for you, your surf conditions, and your style than a guy who makes and rides boards for a living/hobby/lifestyle.

Hve to agree with W.I.P its pointless getting a shaper to copy a board unless its something you are totally familiar with i.e its your magic board otherwise what the hells the point

You can get decent boards off the rack like al.... etc... but having a board custom made to your personal needs is the only way to go. When you build a relationship with your shaper your boards become better and better more fine tuned although my first custom still blows me away.

As for what board/shape/size etc... you need to talk this over with the shaper but be brutal honest dont over hype your ability.

Also make sure you are going to use a shaper who actual knows what they are doing unfortunatly there are a ton of shapers who have no idea whatsoever i.e a lot of people think cause they can use a CNC shaping machine they can suddenly shape So you need to drill the shaper and make sure they know what they are talking about.

When you find a decent shaper you will be stoked as i am

The anacampa is a good shape, but a bad board, made in the orient but only one layer of fiberglass so it will chip and ding easily, but the shape and ride will be good.

The flyer is a good begginer board, comes in wider on the tail so the extra volume makes it more stable, should be good as a "return" board. However, you have not surfed in a long time and you are older than 22 so expect a big learning curve.

Lastly, if you don't mind one suggestion, a personal preference, I had my shaper make me one 3 years ago, I don't use it much any more but it was my go-to board for a while. Usually all of us learn (in your case re-learn) on a bigger board and transition down. Can I suggest you google the "Xanadu Rocky" and have it made your size? The board will have thicker rails and will retain thickness to the nose and tail, so it will be much easier to paddle and a lot more stable. Anyway, if not, the flyer is a good choice to have a shaper make.

Also make sure you are going to use a shaper who actual knows what they are doing

This is one of the problems, I don't really know them, I know who they are but I don't know them personally. This is why I was thinking of taking a template of a well known board and bringing it to him. And, unfortunately, I don't know enough about surfboard shapes and dimensions to know what I need. I plan on talking to a couple of the shapers here and get an idea of what they recommend, it may be complete opposite from what I think I need. But if I get varying opinions I just wanted to have something in hand to tell them to what to build.

Hey mathteacher, I was looking for info on Xanadu boards, specifically the Rocky and couldn't find any specifics. What dimensions would you recommend for me?

Is it difficult for a shaper to "copy" a board? Let's say I wanted a copy of the Flyer - 6'3" x 19 x 2 3/8" could I expect an exact copy of the board?

One more question - are the above dimensions good for me? I was figuring that the width and thickness would be sufficient enough to aid in stability and float (or paddling ease) without sacrificing too much in the way of performance or duck diving ability.

Thanks a lot guys, I appreciate it.

Is it difficult for a shaper to "copy" a board? Let's say I wanted a copy of the Flyer - 6'3" x 19 x 2 3/8" could I expect an exact copy of the board?

Obviously it depends on the shaper but most good ones hsould have no problem im sure you will find some good ones in costa. However its not 100% that you will get an exact copy most good shapers will do an amazing job in duplicating but there are little things in the composition of the board that might not translate over.

MonteCristo wrote: I was looking for info on Xanadu boards, specifically the Rocky and couldn't find any specifics. What dimensions would you recommend for me?

Let's say I wanted a copy of the Flyer - 6'3" x 19 x 2 3/8" could I expect an exact copy of the board?

One more question - are the above dimensions good for me?

Thanks a lot guys, I appreciate it.

Let me answer the 3rd question and go backwards.

6'3" x 19" x 2 3/8" seems spot on if you are a surfer with experience, for a begginer (or re-learner) it will be a challenge, but if you are as fit as you stated then it might be a good size, normally I would suggest longer, but size to weight it seems about right or even slightly big.

If the shaper copies one it won't be identical. For example, some shapers tend to do slithgly harder rails, some like to plane out the rocker more, some bring in the nose slight differences, but unless you are an expert tour rider you won't notice the difference, and the shaper's board will probably be more durable. Only suggestion I have is to ask for a little less rocker for a begginer, you get more glide at the expense of a little performance.

The rocky does not come in a 6'3" x 19 x 2 3/8, your shaper has to make it that size based on the original design. My shaper was a team rider so got to try a rocky and knew what it looked like, probably same with yours. For example, the rocky copy I had made was a 6'3 x 20 1/4 x 2 1/2 because I weigh 200lbs, kinda too fat and wide for your weight.

If you are using the Flyer for your original measurements then tell your shaper that is what you are doing, he might suggest more width or more length depeding on your ability, or less, that is be beauty of going through a shaper that knows his stuff.

I was talking to a shaper today (the "in"famous Carton, www.cartonsurfboards.com) and, apparently, copying the Flyer is a very common thing for him, his is called the "La Bicha". He says he had many people asking for this board that he made a lot of them and now sells them off the rack. He doesn't have one with 2 3/8 but in 2 1/2, I guess that will make it easier, otherwise he actually suggested the same dimensions I was thinking. I will still talk to other shapers and although he has the reputation here in Costa Rica, he is more expensive $495.

Thanks guys.

2 1/2 is really thick i highly dont recommend it for you
with 2 1/2 it'll be easier to paddle but when riding it it'll feel like a boat under your feet. you wont have any quick release and you'll wont have feel the wave as much.
im about the same weight and size as you and i ride a 2 1/8

its takes a bit more extra effort but well worth it

i think a 2 3/16 should be perfect

Heychief,

Thanks for the reply, I was away for a few days so that's why I didn't respond earlier. What about a 2 3/8, it should give me some extra float to paddle yet still remain maneuverable. A 19" width is good? And what length do you ride? This is where I'm not sure, I don't want to buy something too short nor too long, I was still thinking of 6'3"

length always seems the least important to me. I focus on the thickness of the board and its shape first. For example, im a inch shorter then you and I usually surf a 6'3"short, but also borrowed my buddies 5'6" pod and was just as good on it because the thickness and width was still there for me. That being said the 6'3" should be a good length for you.

2 1/2 isn't amazingly thick for a learner/re-starter and won't find a huge difference in maneuverability whilst he will find a big difference in buoyancy.

2 1/2 feels like a fish thats 3" for us that are 145lbs. its just too thick. i mean if your gonna be surfing double over head then maybe 2 1/2. but you wont be. 2 3/8 is a possible go. some may think that theres not much a difference from 2 3/8 and 2 1/2 but you'll actually feel a big difference by every 1/8 of thickness.

you asked about my board. my main shorty is potato chip sized, 5'11 x 19 x 2 1/8 with more shoulders and hips. also 6'4 x 18 x 2 3/16 for bigger days