Surfing Waves

I am currently surfing a 6'4" McCoy nugget, which is a thick hybrid. (6'4" by 20 1/2" by 2 3/4"). I am not one of those fat old blokes, but rather a petite old chook (or was it chick) who is 5'2" tall, and 48kg and about to cross over to the wrong side of 40 years old.

I was dreaming of getting something which might be easier to get out back and possibly duck dive occasionally. I am really still a beginner. On a good fat wave day, I can catch most of what I paddle for and bottom turn, cut back if lucky. On steep sucky low tide waves, I generally get clobbered, although on good days, I have a good time on these too. I am a big chicken so mostly I only surf when it is small, around shoulder high or under.

My board good for catching waves and turn well from the back foot but is a little chunky and can feel quite heavy to pivot fast. I'd like something which turns a little easier but still catches me waves. I am a very average paddler, and only really surf once or twice a week for not very long.

I was wondering how short and thin i could go. I can catch waves with my daughter's 5'6" softboard but it turns like a dog.

i think that more than likely, I will speak to a local shaper, but i'd be interested in what dimensions you might suggest.

you could try something like a 6' - 6'2 shortboard that will make a massive difference compared to what you are riding. You might also want to try an epoxy as they generally provide more float per the dimentions. as far as thickness and width goes. Id say something around 19 wide and mayby 2 3/8' thick might work for you. This will provide a totally different ride than your current board. Easy to turn easy to duckdive but a lot harder to get into waves and no where nearly as stable or floaty

Making comparisons to a softboard is not a good idea Your absolute best bet is to go to a shaper and discuss your requirements.

Hey Surfingwif,

which beaches do you surf? I mostly surf maroubra, but anything within driving range of sydney is an option.
If you wanna try a couple of shortboards (including a 'big' shortboard) then give me a shout and you can try some of mine out.

At your size, you could easily get down to less than 6ft, but right now I'd go with ^^^^^ and say around the 6'2 mark.

Incidentally, I still get clobbered quite a lot too

Get a Samurai... The boards are selling like hot cakes at the moment!
Can do some very good deals on full custom boards for Surfing Waves members.

Thanks heaps for your advice. It is nice to have an idea of what i should be looking at.

And thanks drowningbitbybit for the offer of trying your boards.

I am just warming to the idea of getting another board, and have yet to convince my husband that it is a good idea. Maybe a Christmas present.

I'm taller than you and heavier, and I surf a 6' semi fish, so I'd say try out retro fish, fish, or biscuit, any size under 6'...

A board that duck dives and able to catch small waves easily to me is contradicting, because to duck dive you need a board less boyant for the body weight; while to be able to catch small waves easily you need a board that's more boyant for the body weight...

Another idea is to stick with the 6'4" length and trim down on the width and thickness. This will make duck diving easier but you can still paddle into waves relatively early. My personal dimensions are 18 1/4" x 2 1/4" to 2 3/16", just to throw out some shortboard dimensions. This would feel significantly different from what you are riding now, so perhaps something in between these dimensions and your board's dimensions.

I'd say get a thick 6'1" or a normal 6'2". Also it might help to get a squash tail if you are not riding one, since it is looser than a round or a swallow tail. Also, if you have the money, it would be best to get a 5'11" for more powerfull hollow days and a 6'2" for normal ones, and keep your 6'4" for smaller, less powerfull days. Also, for those really small days, it is always nice to have a longboard in your quiver.
Just remember an inch too big is better than an inch too small. Also, the best thing to do is to talk to your shaper, he has the most experiance.

faf please shut up even i know that you need a slighly bigger board when it gets powerfull

Thanks everyone for your replies.

PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2008 10:10 am Post subject:
Hey Surfingwif,

which beaches do you surf? I mostly surf maroubra, but anything within driving range of sydney is an option.
If you wanna try a couple of shortboards (including a 'big' shortboard) then give me a shout and you can try some of mine out.

At your size, you could easily get down to less than 6ft, but right now I'd go with ^^^^^ and say around the 6'2 mark.

Incidentally, I still get clobbered quite a lot too Wink

I live near Curl Curl on the northern beaches, but mostly only go out there if the neighbour's kids tell me that the surf is crap (read very small). Otherwise, I join the other million beginners at Manly, Freshie or Dee Why, occasionally Collaroy.

Thanks again for your advice. I will try to borrow some boards around here and see what dimensions suit.