Surfing Waves

my local break only get to be about 3foot on good days, so im not used to bigger waves than this and when a solid swell comes in (bigger than 3ft) i find myself bottling it and not going in or crap myself and get out, quickly lol. whats the biggest everyones surfed and how do you get out ther?
i see everyone getting great waves while im sitting ther cause i havnt got the balls lol (cant duck dive that well either) cheers

mm...1 foot in the summer, 20 foot in big winter

hi mate, im kinda in the same boat, i can surf up to about 5foot then i xxxxx myself and sit out there waiting for the next wave. any adivce would be good, maybe i should just go for it.

double overhead, but will only surf spots where there's a big channel if it's that size. my favorite size is shoulder high to about 3 ft overhead.

yeah, should just go for it. usually take offs are mainly about confidence and not hesitating. sometimes you'll make it, sometimes not, but the more you do it the more comfortable you'll get doing it.

Really commit. Really go for it and paddle hard. A hesitant take-off will end in disaster, but do it with control and confidence and you'll make it.







So you know that phrase 'those that can't, teach'?
Yeah, well, this is me doing that. The number of times I've bottled out of a wave since I got to Oz is ridiculous..

Rome wasn't built in a day...
Just don't worry about it and surf what ever you are comfortable with, then after a while you will want something a bit meatier and it won't be such a big deal. No hurry.
I read Kelly Slater's book where he says he used to really frightened of big waves and so he just spent time with his mates (Brock Little, Shane Dorian etc.) at Backdoor getting drilled until he realised its not that big a deal if you're ready for it.

haha kelly slater gettin drilled over and over...cant picture it, but good to know he struggled too

smallwavegrovellerchick wrote:double overhead, but will only surf spots where there's a big channel if it's that size. my favorite size is shoulder high to about 3 ft overhead.

yeah, should just go for it. usually take offs are mainly about confidence and not hesitating. sometimes you'll make it, sometimes not, but the more you do it the more comfortable you'll get doing it.

That pretty much covers it for me too

I am comfortabel with doulbe overhead beyond that I get nervous. Even in double overhead days, I ussually only surf about 5 or 6 waves then head back in. My arms are pretty sore by then trying to get a longboard out to the break.

Pick the right conditions watch how the swell comes in and paddel out during a lul. Take the last wave of the set so you are not being cleaned up by the following waves. Get out of the crunch zone as quick as possible.

Broosta wrote:Rome wasn't built in a day...
Just don't worry about it and surf what ever you are comfortable with, then after a while you will want something a bit meatier and it won't be such a big deal. No hurry.
I read Kelly Slater's book where he says he used to really frightened of big waves and so he just spent time with his mates (Brock Little, Shane Dorian etc.) at Backdoor getting drilled until he realised its not that big a deal if you're ready for it.

Haha I never knew kelly would be like that.

Broosta wrote:Rome wasn't built in a day...
Just don't worry about it and surf what ever you are comfortable with, then after a while you will want something a bit meatier and it won't be such a big deal. No hurry.
I read Kelly Slater's book where he says he used to really frightened of big waves and so he just spent time with his mates (Brock Little, Shane Dorian etc.) at Backdoor getting drilled until he realised its not that big a deal if you're ready for it.

great read

also lets the reader know about him poopping his cherry

O_Danny_Boy wrote:also lets the reader know about him poopping his cherry

rofl, what the!? maybe you should share it with the rest of us

tackling bigger waves gotta paddle really hard and time the take off, otherwise you'll just get eaten up by the break or miss the wave...

think he was in his early teens, some girl he brought home when the house was empty, he shot his man jam all over her leg.....

all over before it began think was the phrase slater used

but he had his fun and thats all that matters

I've been surfing a long time now.

Big Big all time northerly begining December and i was pretty much surfed out mate says do you fancy second reef, i botttled it, twenty fooot faces and he paddled out alone, i felt real guilty. So much water movind around i was struggling to stay on the innner reef working against the rip. Nice semi secret spot though. Long rights and three reeefs to chooose from.

Step by step is what i'm trying to say like everyone else.

i just go for it, if i make it i make if not o well

the biggest waves i have surfed were probably in the range of DOH+ nearing the TOH mark. I paddled out on a reef using a channel. Long paddle out but one that doesnt need to duckdive.

In big surf its not the drop that has ever scared me but rather getting caught on the inside in that nasty place where you have no where to go but wait out the storm. In many ways i have stopped looking at the wave peaks and pay much more attention to how the actual wave is breaking and what the sneaker outside sets look like. A little bit of observation and preplanning is essentual.

As for the fear factor dont ignor that. You should build up the corage starting off from your comfort zone and slowly build from there. In other words if you comfort zone is 4-6 then try your hand at 6-10 and so on jumping onto to something that is way beyond your comfort zone is not a smart move.

Remember most people who drown end up in that situation by panicking brought on by fear and loss of confidence. If that happens your in a world of pain. So just take it easy and build up to it. Rather than jump head first.

Theres no one who can tell you when you are ready but you.

I freak out if it is bigger than a well overhead wave, (infact I get really nevous of a steep overhead wave). Plus I can only surf a spot with a channel, or if it is like 2 foot.

The Fafanator wrote:I freak out if it is bigger than a well overhead wave, (infact I get really nevous of a steep overhead wave). Plus I can only surf a spot with a channel, or if it is like 2 foot.

you surfing reefs now faf?

smallwavegrovellerchick wrote:double overhead, but will only surf spots where there's a big channel if it's that size. my favorite size is shoulder high to about 3 ft overhead.

Ditto, plus I start to get uncomfortable at 1 foot overhead if it is hollowish, and 4ft overhead if it is flattish.