Surfing Waves

Hey all. There's a go swell coming in tommorrow here in Socal and the waves are suppose to be around6-8 feet here at la holla shores. I've usually surf waves 5 feet and under, since I've started surfing in July, going both ways but have never surfed waves higher than this. I've atually tried surfing waves 6 feet on bigger days but I get thrashed more than I catch them. At a beach break, would it be alright just go ahead and try and paddle out on a bigger days such as this with my experience? I figure the only way I'm going to consistently catch bigger waves is to just go out and do it. As long as the water depth I'm surfing in is 6 feet deep, I should be alright. I'm just worried about breaking my kneck. I don't really mind getting thrashed until I get used to catching these bigger waves with consistency. What do you guys think?

Also, When did everyone feel comfortable surfing overhead + waves? When do you guys suggest a person should start surfing these size waves? How do you know you're ready? Is there anything you should be cautious about when surfing these size waves at a breach break? Sorry about all the questions. You guys have been extremely helpful the past 3 months.

I'm thinking that the fact that you are asking the question probably means you shouldnt be out there

Sure, push yourself to go out when it gets a bit bigger, but there is a limit - and you should know when that limit is and just walk away (or sit in the van having a cup of tea watching your mates get trashed. That's always fun).

Fortunately, the sea has its own way of dealing with this - If you can get out back, then you'll probably be okay. If you cant get out back, then you shouldnt be there.

(Note - if there's a rip, or a strong offshore wind, sometimes its very easy to get out back. Im talking about a direct paddle out at a beach break).

Thanks drowning for the advice. So if I can get past the break, than I should be fine right? lol. As far as those type of waves pile driving me into the sand that should be a problem if I'm in deep enough water such as 6 feet right?

I have to agree with everying he said above.

3 - 4ft Hawaiian scale (1 - 3 ft overhead) top to bottom waves are very different from soft, slopey 3 - 4' waves. Also 3 - 4' and rising could mean paddling out when the waves are a ft over head and suddenly finding yourself in triple overhead waves. This all really depends on where you're surfing.

You have to know the spot and your limits. A friend of mine paddled out at Haleiwa when it was 4 ft, snapped her board in half and had to be rescued by lifeguard on jet skis because she couldn't get back in due to the current. Good thing there were actually lifeguards at that beach.

Doesn't matter when anyone else got comfortable surfing overhead waves. Some people start off surfing overhead waves. We all learn to surf at a different pace. I've watched some groms rip after only a couple years of surfing and I've seen people who've surfed for over 15 years and still suck. Doesn't matter...they're all having a blast.

if in doubt dont go out. seriously if you think you wont make it out back you probably wont. if you try ot paddle out, know when to give up. if you are paddling like a motherbitch bt making no real progress through the waves then its time to get to shore.

as for when i got comfortable in overhead+ waves. im not. overhead i can handle but when it gets above head and a half i get nervous as hell. been out in waves pushing double overhead but was very scared and possibly should have stayed on the beach with a cup of tea as matt suggested.

Huntingtonsurf80 wrote:Hey all. There's a go swell coming in tommorrow here in Socal and the waves are suppose to be around6-8 feet here at la holla shores. I've usually surf waves 5 feet and under, since I've started surfing in July, going both ways but have never surfed waves higher than this. I've atually tried surfing waves 6 feet on bigger days but I get thrashed more than I catch them. At a beach break, would it be alright just go ahead and try and paddle out on a bigger days such as this with my experience? I figure the only way I'm going to consistently catch bigger waves is to just go out and do it. As long as the water depth I'm surfing in is 6 feet deep, I should be alright. I'm just worried about breaking my kneck. I don't really mind getting thrashed until I get used to catching these bigger waves with consistency. What do you guys think?

really a swell 6-8 hope its accurate.

When it comes to bigger waves and inexperience its handy to surf a more mellow beach so a 6-8ft blacks beach would not be so good as its more high preformance. But why not try tourmaline thats a pretty mellow spot even when its big.

Just remember getting outback is one thing getting caught on the inside is another. If you think you are up to that scenario go for it.

Thanks guys for the advice.

just have a look when you arrive at the beach, watch what other folk that are already out are doing. Check out how the majority of the waves are breaking, and if the waves are just closing out and offering no ride then don't bother if you aint too confident. If the waves have shape then decide which path you want to take in the water to get out back, then when you get out back try and get into a decent position to catch the waves a bit away from the breaking shoulder and after a wee while hopefully you'll have all the confidence in the world!
At the moment were i am it's almost always overhead, the west coast of the island is a 20foot mess, whereas the east coast is producing class 8 - 10foot peelers with an offshore wind. In my experience in the larger waves, it's only really worthwhile going out in larger waves if the waves have shape to them.
Also, go out back with a mate, it'll help both of you be more confident.

Yeah it really depends on your level of experience and how the waves are breaking that day. The second time i ever went surfing it was about 7 foot windswell...road one in and couldn't get back out cuz of all the white water and currents. But groundswells are alot more powerful than windswells, so 6-8 ft. clean groundswell will be and easier paddle out but be worse if you eat it than a 6-8 ft. windswell which is a harder paddle out but not so bad if you faceplant it.

It's simple, if you don't think you can swim in without your board then don't go. Big waves aren't all that bad. If you get caught inside then just let yourself get washed back to shore, if it's too much for you. That is of course if it's a beach, if you are getting pounded onto a reef then that's another problem.

The problem with beaches though is that when it's big it usually just closes out, best bet for big waves are points and reefs, with points generally being the safer option.

Breaking your neck would be kinda hard, unless it was shorebreak.

On 6-8 footers make sure you commit to the wave.. if you paddle for it then back out at last second you can get hurt alot easier by getting caught on the lip and sucked over the falls. Atleast if you takeoff you will fall in the water and your board will hit the water after you, making you less likely to get nailed by your board.

Go out, it won't be that bad, even if you dan't catch anything you still can go out, jut be sure to be far enough down the line so that you don't get caught by surprise, and move more inside as you get more comfortable. That is how I manadged in 9 foot swell, without catching anything ofcoarse, but atleast I started to get used to waves that size (although I still aren't quite used to it, I still am scared to bits, and come out shivering like someone who seen a ghost.) Just don't go out if it is really steep and hollow, esp if it is thick and hollow, plus don't go out if the waves aren't predictable.

The Fafanator wrote:Go out, it won't be that bad, even if you dan't catch anything you still can go out, jut be sure to be far enough down the line so that you don't get caught by surprise, and move more inside as you get more comfortable. That is how I manadged in 9 foot swell, without catching anything ofcoarse, but atleast I started to get used to waves that size (although I still aren't quite used to it, I still am scared to bits, and come out shivering like someone who seen a ghost.) Just don't go out if it is really steep and hollow, esp if it is thick and hollow, plus don't go out if the waves aren't predictable.

Cant you take a hint? Stop mouthing off.

lol, a lot of the time on beach breaks you can't avoid a peak because there are so many. as you go further down the beach you'll just run into a new peak again and again. best option is to find a beach which picks up less swell