Turning and dropping in!!! :) advice is appreciated

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Postby isaluteyou » Thu Jun 26, 2008 5:26 pm

duckdiving is a smooth motion dbbb has explained it pretty good. You can use either the ball of your foot or knee. Whatever you find easier (you can get away with the knee, duckdived DOH using that method whithout any troubles)
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Postby surferdude_scarborough » Thu Jun 26, 2008 11:36 pm

like dbbb says pushing the board forward is vital. i forgot this bit for a while the ought day and couldnt figure out why i kept getting hammered more than normal for the size. then i realiszed i hadnt been pushing the board forward and everything went smoothly since.
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Postby Beachbum » Fri Jun 27, 2008 7:47 am

Ya pushing your board forward helps out a lot and I use my foot on the tailpad to get my board really down there below the whitewash which wants to drag me back to shore.
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Postby TReMoR » Sat Jun 28, 2008 9:56 pm

drowningbitbybit wrote:
TReMoR wrote:by how i understand it... you paddle and get some speed then push your nose into the water then push your tail into the water with your foot.. and dive onto the board...


Not quite -
Push the nose of the board down and sink the board. Then put your foot (sometimes you can get away with knee) on the tail of the board and try to get as much of you out of the water as you can. The board will sink. Follow it. Then - and this is the critical moment - push the board forward (still with your arms extended) and then kinda pivot it around the foot, so it goes down and then up behind the wave. As it comes up you'll want to bend your arms to get close to the board.

Easy. Or not. :wink:


ill try that tomorrow :) i finally get to go tomorrow.. cept i dont think anyone can camera me then..

oh yea.. also.. if the waves were messy and there really wasnt a direction the waves are breaking then ... can you still be dropping in on someone?
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Postby TReMoR » Mon Jun 30, 2008 5:53 am

it was pretty fun today although i was only able to surf for 45 min... :D

so i dont know if its dropping in....
i basically stood and then i felt myself going down with the white wash so.. maybe? i dont know.. .. the wave was only 2 foot... but anyways.. i was leaning a lot to the front... the water was shallow.. and i saw my nose dig in ... and then i felt it hit the sand and then i fell off ... and i thought my board broke... but it wasnt :)
but im worried because ive had A LOT of close calls.. like once when i was exiting the water i was trying to ride a wave out and it crashed over me and my board and I just smashed into the ground.. that time i thought that it was broken but it still wasnt.. mine must be so old that the foam hardened into rock .. haha

im so worried because my friend who i go surfing with sometimes... broke 3 boards... he is a noob like me.. but 3 boards? :roll: it might be because he never really takes care of it but it makes me worried about the fate of my board.

so what are the dumb things i can actually try and avoid?
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Postby surferdude_scarborough » Mon Jun 30, 2008 1:51 pm

dont ride it all the way to the beach. look out for the shorebreak if there is one. nothing like being dropped onto "dry" sand for breaking boards (and bodies)
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Postby isaluteyou » Mon Jun 30, 2008 5:03 pm

surferdude_scarborough wrote:dont ride it all the way to the beach. look out for the shorebreak if there is one. nothing like being dropped onto "dry" sand for breaking boards (and bodies)


Yep that can creep up on you particually if you are getting a really good ride and take it onto the inside. Usually if you see dry sand or worse dry reef its generally a good time to kick off the back :lol: just be sure to grab your board when you exit or it will just drop :wink:
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Postby TReMoR » Sun Jul 06, 2008 11:54 pm

i went to the beach today and it was great!!...
i totally dropped in on like a 3-4 feet wave
i slid down the face and onto the surface of the water but then i kinda chickened out or something i fell off backwards :( And then the second wave i caught was probably 2-3 foot and i tried to make a turn at the bottom except i ended up at a extreme angle and my face hit the water and i got tumbled in the wave.

only bad thing... . after the second wave .. i ended up disoriented at the shore. I saw a wave coming and i tried to push my board over cept my board smacked me on my eyebrow and that hurt :(

[/b] one thing ... I have no idea if my back foot is on the traction pad :? does that matter much? im pretty sure that im too far foward... but if i move my body back on my board then its harder to paddle?
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Postby TReMoR » Tue Jul 08, 2008 1:40 am

just out of curiosity... would it be hard to move from a 6'7'' to a 6'4
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Postby drowningbitbybit » Tue Jul 08, 2008 2:24 am

TReMoR wrote:just out of curiosity... would it be hard to move from a 6'7'' to a 6'4


Unless you compensated with more width/volume, yup it would.

I dont think you need to be worrying about upgrading your board just yet! :lol:
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Postby LeeM » Tue Jul 08, 2008 6:44 pm

Push the nose of the board down and sink the board. Then put your foot (sometimes you can get away with knee) on the tail of the board and try to get as much of you out of the water as you can. The board will sink. Follow it. Then - and this is the critical moment - push the board forward (still with your arms extended) and then kinda pivot it around the foot, so it goes down and then up behind the wave. As it comes up you'll want to bend your arms to get close to the board.

Easy. Or not. :wink:


Thanks, DBBB. I have been struggling with my duck dive until I saw this. I was trying to slide the board under the wave without getting out of the water. Looks like I'm going to need it this weekend.
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Postby rich r » Tue Jul 08, 2008 7:14 pm

The idea of getting out of the water as much as you can is that you want to full extend and push up as far as you can so you can take the motion and move it into pushing down as hard as you can. With your body up, you can exert more pressure downward on the board.

As you exeret downward on the board, you are trying to dive, getting your head under water before the whitewater hits. Depending on the wave size, you then wait a moment and then push the tail down with your knee/foot/leg to shoot through and up.
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Postby TReMoR » Wed Jul 09, 2008 1:31 am

oh.. well i wasnt trying to move down a size :)
just curious how much more it takes to learn on a 6'4'' because that is the size that my friend is using.
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Postby isaluteyou » Wed Jul 09, 2008 5:10 pm

TReMoR wrote:oh.. well i wasnt trying to move down a size :)
just curious how much more it takes to learn on a 6'4'' because that is the size that my friend is using.


I would stick with the 6'7 until you are more than competant with your surfing skills. Then you can drop to the 6'4 and get used to that. The transition is much much easier when you are comfortable and experienced.

Its interesting but i dropped from a 6'8 to a 6'4 and after finally getting used to the 6'4 i tried out a 6'0 and found the transition effortless. What im trying to say its not so much about the board but the surfers experience theres no need to rush this :wink:
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i finally got back out on the beach! :)

Postby TReMoR » Sat Jul 26, 2008 6:14 pm

i can turn!! whoo hoo. hahaha..
but the turn is too slow? im not sure.. i mean i turn as im going down (i can drop in now) and then i meeet white wash and my board stops... :(

maybe the wrong waves?


now dropping in....
i can do it ok most of the times except sometimes my front foot detaches as i go down and i end up falling over backward.


now my third question is about the waves...
what do you call those waves where they come really close together and later the white wash combine? because i rode one and then i found myself getting an unexpected drop in which i fell off.. should i avoid those waves?

Also i keep seeing pulses of waves going backward into the ocean and it makes the wave explode.. is that bad conditions to be surfing in?


oh yea! i actually got in a tiny barrel for like a mili mili second.. hahah.. i found myself in like a drop knee kind of thing and the turn was pretty sharp and as i saw the water break i smashed into the side of the wave.. hahha. ill try my best to get some footage soon :)
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