I'm a special case. need advise

[Oldie]

That was visible in MSW days ahead. Just check it regularly. I could not go as I had to attend a hockey tournament of my daughter

[DreamSurf]

That was visible in MSW days ahead. Just check it regularly. I could not go as I had to attend a hockey tournament of my daughter

First things first right. i have 3 kids and sometimes stuff like that comes in between. I take them with me everywhere me skating while they use the step. i skate at my worst when their with me LOL. but its because they show off and i need to say how good they are. Excuse me but what does MSW mean? Is it an App?

[Oldie]

Magicseaweed

[oldmansurfer]

Magicseaweed is a web site that provides swell prediction so you can look for better days to go surf. There are other websites as well such as Surfline which I used to subscribe to just to be able to check out their web cams. None of them provide information I can use but they may provide information that you can use. If you have lots of option about when or where you can surf then they can be useful as they can tell you when to go where for the best odds at getting some good surf, however it's just a prediction and they may be wrong too.

[Big H]

cause it would be awesome if this is frequent. surfable waves always good.

Some places get a lot of good waves (Hawaii, The Goldy, Indo), other places don't. I can be relatively lazy and passive when it comes to making time to surf.....here pretty much anytime is a good time to go SOMEWHERE around here, with west, south and east coast exposures all within close driving distance and breaks that work best on each coast at at variety of tide levels and swell heights breaking lefts and rights....it is more a matter of where to go, not when to go......but all the same you need to put the time in on the beach watching the waves and conditions at every kind of tide and swell level, different wind speeds and directions so that you can KNOW what the report means when you read it, how what is in the report corresponds to actual conditions.

There isn't any shortcuts, and this is just one more of many things that makes surfing so different from skating and why we all had a good chuckle at your bravado....this stuff really matters and once you start to get it sorted you'll start to see the same faces in the water, because those who KNOW only go when it's working, but when it is ON they will be there. Takes a lot of time commitment......it's something that I really enjoy....sometimes I'll go to a break that I know isn't working just to sit and watch it and see why it isn't working, or I'll stop by a spot that I know is firing when I don't have time to surf just to take it in for 5-10min and see what's happening in the water when it is good....this is part of learning how to surf, a big part.....................and again, I love my carver skatey, but there is a large part of surfing that has f-all to do with board riding skills that needs to be embraced and learned otherwise, in this case, you'll forever be surfing at the wrong time on the wrong days in the wrong places......hard to develop, learn or get good if you can't find the wave.

[oldmansurfer]

Basically though these services only offer prediction which is not 100% accurate and if you want to know if it's good you need to go look. On top of that they might not offer any meaningful prediction for the beaches you have access to. In which case you need to try to make your own predictions and then go look because just like them you will be wrong from time to time. One of the unfortunate results of the services is that when there are humongous swells predicted at choice big wave spots then it becomes a zoo because every big wave surfer that can get plane reservations will be there. I imagine this also results in heavy crowds at other popular breaks when good waves are predicted. If you know how to surf then you can be more selective about what kind of waves you are going out in but if you want to learn you need to go surf and not stay at home because the waves were predicted to be lousy. If you can learn to surf lousy waves you will learn to surf faster because you won't be sitting around waiting for good waves and once you get some good waves they will be easy to ride. When you get better at surfing then you may not care so much about learning and more about surfing nice waves then these prediction services are definitely the thing to do although if it were me I would try to find out of the way spots that have good waves and learn how to tell when they are likely to be good. But then again maybe you would rather ride nice waves and learn slower.

[DreamSurf]

Basically though these services only offer prediction which is not 100% accurate and if you want to know if it's good you need to go look. On top of that they might not offer any meaningful prediction for the beaches you have access to. In which case you need to try to make your own predictions and then go look because just like them you will be wrong from time to time. One of the unfortunate results of the services is that when there are humongous swells predicted at choice big wave spots then it becomes a zoo because every big wave surfer that can get plane reservations will be there. I imagine this also results in heavy crowds at other popular breaks when good waves are predicted. If you know how to surf then you can be more selective about what kind of waves you are going out in but if you want to learn you need to go surf and not stay at home because the waves were predicted to be lousy. If you can learn to surf lousy waves you will learn to surf faster because you won't be sitting around waiting for good waves and once you get some good waves they will be easy to ride. When you get better at surfing then you may not care so much about learning and more about surfing nice waves then these prediction services are definitely the thing to do although if it were me I would try to find out of the way spots that have good waves and learn how to tell when they are likely to be good. But then again maybe you would rather ride nice waves and learn slower.

ill take your advise with me oldman. i never said about my skate experience of the present. not only am i obsessed.( i surfed today no filming just practicing. minor waves i did a knee shred lol. so anyways to tell you my skate experience is fading away more in a sense that i do not enjoy flipping anymore. and it brought me back to thinking that skating originally was made to surf on pools and land and disbanded sewers. you could see in the old films that skaters were in fact surfers. these two always were linked together and it stayed that way untill the early 90's

people would skate like they surf. half pipe was the real thing. and street skate aka freestyle as its calles back then was a sub thing very respected but it was not the main thing untill Rodney Mullen showed big possibilities. anyways in the old films i saw joy of skate/surfers going downhill or skate pools and slide and powerslide and drift with the skateboard. and that is where my interest lies again. i happened to be those who skated the big boards on half pipe before the transition of the commercial street skating. and even tho i could streetskate conform the norm but today when i analayse how i felt? i felt under pressure sponsored and being on tour. i didnt enjoy the pressure. even off tour in my mind i was preparing for the next big thing.

all this together and being a grown up made me realise that it was all really cool untill early 90's. the pressure nowadays is just to big. i can tell ya that all the skate vids you see. and ive been spectating loads of them. they have to go 360flip to tailslide 270 heelflip out. and they dedicate the whole day for that. just to get it on tape. is that enjoyment?????????
thats ppressure i tell ya. but its for the money right?

i started checking my vids on vcr at my dads home the other day from early to mid 90's and i had a joy.

I MISSED THAT JOY EVER SINCE

I was in a sleep automatic pilot delirium back to back pushing target to win contests and make vcr vids for my shop.

so then when i saw people skimboarding i went like i said in the first postback to the joy. where one tries to be better with a better feeling. that feeling of joy... i am actually refeeling that with surfing. even today swoooooosh swoooooosh waves and water and nature. its some kind of spiritual thing like you and i discussed where you release the daily stress we just dont deserve. especially you man(sad) you deserve your good days. and with the skatething i was probably having stress.

but even today being heavy and non sponsored. I JUST DONT ENJOY FLIP TRICK i can do them. but i do not enjoy them. i enjoy the ride and the airs and grinds on miniramp. the speed and sound and steering in fastness. and guess what old man. surfing has that.

i didnt tell you yet that i am recruting my non surfing skate friends. and they are looking for surf stuff. LOL they saw this thread. i told them everything is possible. LOL you know what i mean. i got slapped in the face haha. But its all good so now we try to get this moving together. next weekend ill try my third session. ill try to respect the number of once a week for now. i dont really lose skill when i learn something so hopefully at that pace we will get there. but im well aware once the basics are founded i need to do more a week.

i enjoy it oldman what can i say?

edit P.s.

i skate and surf now and i got the idea that i make use of muscles that got lazy. my belly and shoulders.surely its the surf that did it

[oldmansurfer]

[DreamSurf]

lol funny a kickflip. he is enjoying it for the fun of it hell yeah.i can see myself doing a heel or kick and shove it. but a 360 flip with such a big surfboard i dont know man. but for me ill just keep it to that goal of airing and shredding. ill have fun trying a kickflip someday perhaps. he did land it clean on his board

props

[DreamSurf]

another question are flips used in competitions?

[oldmansurfer]

Not much, I don't much points are awarded for kick flips

[DreamSurf]

Not much, I don't much points are awarded for kick flips

I think also because having a leash in competition stuff like shove it and flips is undoable.

But hey you wont hear me complaining. Im saying goodbye to it. I love the rush and air now.

[jaffa1949]

Just a footnote ( pun intended) skating in Australia started before VCRs in Australia in the Early 60s, .
Quite a few of the first boards here were old strap on metal wheeled skate plates, straps removed and screwed onto rough shaped wooden boards.
The screech of the wheels sliding out on every turn The discovery of roller derby trucked boots and compound wheels led to a home made trade in second hand boots and truck removal. The late Midget Farrelly marketed early skate boards with trucks and compound wheels in the late 60s.
The craze had begun in Australia, neoprene compound wheels came later.
I imagine California probably predates the Aussie craze by just a few years in each phase.
There was also mono snow skis with parallel boot settings pre dating snowboards, again early 60s, wake boarding and free boarding behind ski boats. Each genre took the original surfing style changed it and then handed it back to surfing with airs and all the rest.
New boards in surfing enabled the skills to be translated back to the water.
A very fruitful cross fertilization !

Strangely each new generation thinks it invented surfing nuh!
They do however invent new aspects of an ancient art!

[DreamSurf]

Just a footnote ( pun intended) skating in Australia started before VCRs in Australia in the Early 60s, .
Quite a few of the first boards here were old strap on metal wheeled skate plates, straps removed and screwed onto rough shaped wooden boards.
The screech of the wheels sliding out on every turn The discovery of roller derby trucked boots and compound wheels led to a home made trade in second hand boots and truck removal. The late Midget Farrelly marketed early skate boards with trucks and compound wheels in the late 60s.
The craze had begun in Australia, neoprene compound wheels came later.
I imagine California probably predates the Aussie craze by just a few years in each phase.
There was also mono snow skis with parallel boot settings pre dating snowboards, again early 60s, wake boarding and free boarding behind ski boats. Each genre took the original surfing style changed it and then handed it back to surfing with airs and all the rest.
New boards in surfing enabled the skills to be translated back to the water.
A very fruitful cross fertilization !

Strangely each new generation thinks it invented surfing nuh!
They do however invent new aspects of an ancient art!

it is commonly accepted that it became from surfing. well at least thats how the docs represent it. one of them called dogtown and zboys

strangely tho i saw a black n white photo of the 60's where freaking priests would skateboard LOL. they were not hoaxes.
so the it came from surfing might still be truth but doesnt necessarily erive from it the way it was portrayed in the documentaries. which wasnt like 1975.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLwuPxTYW_Q

omg this gives a whole new twist. but the form of surfers would be more like a fishboard or penny board. these canadian dudes had pencil shaped ones.(they ride fast) were the bearings even that good allready?

here they skate like they surf

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mLwuPxTYW_Q

you cant really give conclusions to this. do you have more insight?
what is that ancient art? do u think stuff like this was allready there in 1500 after christ? i mean surfing. in essention it was wood. how long does that even exist?

[DreamSurf]

just to say your insight is accurate. im chatting with some guys at scientology(im not scientology) but i respect all peeps. and their old like you and they give the same story. they did however say that skateboard was a temperorial thing and was from a big thing to nothing. but in 1965 it was kinda like reinvented with the better wheels like you also mentione. urethean it was called. no clay wheels no more.

but its surfing still. they would be called sidewalk surfing LOL. people would skate like they were the surfer terry fitzgeral australia. it was a surf intended sport for those who were not having waves everyday. more like a lets keep u happy untill the next wave. or lets have an apple untill were home and eat the meat.

but hey you were there you know better

[jaffa1949]

Don't do your head in by overthinking anything, get in the water go surfing, nicest form of brainwash!
Christian missionaries tried to ban it in Hawaii and other Polynesian islands .
The ancient Peruvians surfed reed boats well before Europeans made land fall in the Americas.

[DreamSurf]

Don't do your head in by overthinking anything, get in the water go surfing, nicest form of brainwash!
Christian missionaries tried to ban it in Hawaii and other Polynesian islands .
The ancient Peruvians surfed reed boats well before Europeans made land fall in the Americas.

Just surfed yesterday. Its nice for me to get it from root to the fruit. And learn new terms to make communication better

Shame on the mercenaries. Jesus peace be upon him wouldnt be against it.

Reed boats huh. What a volume lol. Still it existed. Very nice.

[DreamSurf]

Don't do your head in by overthinking anything, get in the water go surfing, nicest form of brainwash!
Christian missionaries tried to ban it in Hawaii and other Polynesian islands .
The ancient Peruvians surfed reed boats well before Europeans made land fall in the Americas.

i had to think about your comment. quiet honestly it is in my character to think. i even wake up shocked subliminally looking for answers. it goes all the way back to high school. i would wake up and write the answer. i tried to fight it and ended up thinking about how to stop the thinking. it only stops with good activities. surfing skating squash etcetera.

anyways no worries its not overthinking i surf now. and managed to perfect my pop up. and reading waves i becoming a thing as well. but the combination made it better. i pop up immediately after paddling in the bow wave(thats how i call it untill it becomes a crescent and i turn left to avoid the closeout. what i basically do is keeping going left and sometime go towards the shore and then again left to keep the pace going.

i have to confess i had to use the torq long board to get in the flow. but it was only one day. i found out my taill needs to be higher up and nose deeper near the water before popping up. also i pop up without problems now. i did a lot of excersise home before going on water again. i found outthat it has a springs theory. where you go up and shock the knees up. its faster now to me.

meanwhile the nps is the way to go. the shortboard im just stubborn and still trying and it works but as soon as i dont corectly keep pace it goes in the water. i know its my experience plus weight and the wave length. too many odds against me. But hey im surfing while i should rest at home all red eyes of being tired plus red water. im sick lately troath is slimey.

ill keep going like this. and looking forward to buy a new proper camera that has a good zoom in so that i can show the progress.
thx for everything.

[yiPyiiP]

okey so after reading the Original question/post and kinda everything else here are my 2 pennys.

(English isnt my main language, so be prepared xD)

so i started surfing last year. On a 5.11 fish. After everything you heard in this post you might say waat ? thats just stupid !

well here is my surf, beginning storry_::

1. i am 15
2. i am in top physical condition(strenght, cardio, good swimmer &co)
3. my Aunt surfed. she allways gave me surf films to watch even before i could properly read, wich conditioned my brain for the basic movements
4.i lived right behing the beaches of hossegor/france for 3 months being able to spend atleast 4 hours a day in the water every single day.
5. i comitted 100% in everything i did in the water

now ocean knowlenge was/is my major learning point. i learned swimming age 8, and have never really been around the ocean
before. The currents, tides wave size always where a thing i was sort of afraid of and ALLWAYS had in the back(more like 2/3) of
my mind. wave size. never underestimate wave power my friend. hard concrete or wood in a sk8 park is nothing against the ocean.
Becouse it doesnt just bruise you, cut you, hit you KO(being hit by a board is hell) or break your bones, it does all that
while holding you under water sometimes not knowing where the surface is.

i never had any coaching besides my first hour of surfing. The rest was just figuring out and sometimes watching online tuts.
i poped up at the end of that first hour without having any balance issues
8 time surfing i surfed the wave down the line creating speed manually.

and so i progressed just by doing it over and over and most important, over and over again. allways picking one thing i deffinitly
wanted to do on a wave. I learned trough trial and error where to position my self(i have gotten waves on my head countless times), when to paddle for a wave and to read it properly so i could pull out/ kick out in case its closing out or just not as nice as it looked before.

i have been taken by current, big waves and kramps while being 150 m from shore alone.

but now i surf the best waves of the set, do turns, cutbacks and only paddle 4-5 times to get on my feet in 3 to 7 foot waves.

and everything i do outside the water somewhat benefits my surf performance. I eat healthy special for surfing performance, i am
training, i watch, think and talke about surfing.



Now all that might seem a lot. BUT IT ISNT ! its just a tiny ity bity part of what i want to do/ learn.
i am still not doing areals and barrels, still no bucket spray of the lip heavy hit, only glass of water sprays




Now what i think you should to:

you have 3 children=not that much time
an anoyed wife= not that much time(or time and a fun surf,but no happy time afer)

skate skills. lets just pretend you dont have it, it doesnt matter anyways undless you use a carve board and/or a longboard.
friends that surf ? if yes, go with them. If no, watch a lot of viedos. not slomo or any fancy shots, just plain surfing.

like every one said, stop talking. rent a 8 foot foamie and surf for an hour. nomather how good you think you are going to be.
after that, feel free to do what you want. surf a 5.11 or a 9 f longboard. Or, mostlikely, use that 8 f board for the next 4 sessions.

JOE
(i wrote this quick, gotta go surf rn. )

[Big H]

He has 4 boards already....no need to rent.